1st Grow - Dresser Hydro CFL ScrOG C99

Hey guys been working hard on what I have so far. Just wanted to start a thread/log for my grow. I plan on taking this cab and growing some c99 scrog style.

Here are the plans:

Lighting:
Veg
3-4 27W CFL 5500k

Bloom
5 30W CFL 2700K
1 27W CFL 2700K Odor Eliminating bulb.
1-2 27W CFL 5500K

Medium/Irrigation
3.75" Net Cups w/ Clay Pellets
Combination drip and aeroponic irrigation
250 gph Pump

Ventilation
4" Passive intake
4" Inline Fan 80 CFM Active Exhaust
Homeade Carbon Scrubber

The cab as you can see is an old dresser I cut the front off of. I hinged the sides and placed clasps to secure the door. Weatherstripping all the seals and lining the inside with a plastic sheeting first, then Mylar.

Ill try and keep posted as I progress through the build and the grow. I should have about two more weeks to finish the cab, then I'll start germing.

grow for it my friend..:thumbsup:

Did some more work on the cab in the last week.

Lights came in and I got the hoods up and wired. I just need to give the insides of the hoods a coat of white. You can see in the picture how it glows, I don't think that is good for light reflection. Started in on the tubs i will be using for my hydro system. Same tubs I used for the lights, .97 each at walmart, too good of a deal. Im letting the silicone on my tubs dry for a day or so before painting...

Thats it for now, I just gotta get more free time to work on this thing... I'd like to have seeds/clones in a few weeks.

what are you doing for ventilation? I like the start of this set up man. Looks like it will be very stealth!

two 4" holes for now, one in the top right for exhaust with 4" inline fan and carbon scrubber, also one in the lower left for intake, haven't decided how i am going to make my light barrier, probably some pvc with the inside painted black, not sure yet.

looks very similar to my grow except i have a 250watt switchable ballast in mine and im using soil. ive been thinking about building a bubbler system though. i already have a bubble stone and a air pump...
i already had the light and it fit into the dresser perfect....like it was fate :)

what kind of temps do you get with that 250 running a hps bulb ? and how are you ventilating ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thex420

Lights came in and I got the hoods up and wired. I just need to give the insides of the hoods a coat of white. You can see in the picture how it glows, I don't think that is good for light reflection. Im letting the silicone on my tubs dry for a day or so before painting...

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Coating those with paint and/or silicon on the inside will have a very minimal affect for reflection. If the base material is not thick enough to stop the light from going through it then the light will still be "absorbed" by the tubs...

I would save your time, money and effort with the painting and silicon by simply investing in a roll of MYLAR. Slap some MYLAR inside those tubs and you'll be thoroughly amazed. Not to mention it will seriously increase your light efficiency...

On the other hand, if you're unable to acquire MYLAR then you're definitly on the right track.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EXP13

Coating those with paint and/or silicon on the inside will have a very minimal affect for reflection. If the base material is not thick enough to stop the light from going through it then the light will still be "absorbed" by the tubs...

I would save your time, money and effort with the painting and silicon by simply investing in a roll of MYLAR. Slap some MYLAR inside those tubs and you'll be thoroughly amazed. Not to mention it will seriously increase your light efficiency...

On the other hand, if you're unable to acquire MYLAR then you're definitly on the right track.

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Wonderfully put, went to walmart, bought some heat blankets and voila. Check out the pick of the dresser now, you can easily see A LOT more light under the hoods. Same 6 bulbs btw. 30W
2700k

Beautiful!

Great job man. Big difference huh?

Now imagine what you could do with more mylar. Coat the walls, the bottom of the dresser, the door! Hell, MAKE IT A MIRROR BOX!

Maximum reflection = Maximum light efficiency

With CFLs you need as much mylar as your pocket will allow.

Let no light escape!

Clever set-up.

Yeah, kill that light bleed.

Its a shitty dresser so there are lots of small leaks through different cracks. I am using weather stripping for the door, and then using duct tape over the other cracks. I will be covering most of the interior area with mylar, with the exception of the bottom that will be plastic sheeting (im sure the hydro is going to leak, just hopefully not too crazy)

Just put the mylar on top of your plastic sheeting. :)

Mylar can get wet. Just use windex to clear it up if it gets stained with water spots and what not...

How did you wire your lights up inside your tub, I cant really tell by the picture. My reflector is kinda the same except one big one, splitting them up is probally the smarter idea but I already had this big tub around the house.

Remember, your intake and exaust holes will bleed light as well.

;)

Great job on the dresser conversion. Good luck to ya.:jointsmile:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SantaClawz

How did you wire your lights up inside your tub, I cant really tell by the picture. My reflector is kinda the same except one big one, splitting them up is probally the smarter idea but I already had this big tub around the house.

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The bulb sockets I bought are pretty shitty. They have an end that screws off and then there are two spiked metal contacts that are exposed on the back. I stripped the ends of the wire, drilled holes in the tubs and screwed down the caps while the wires were pinched between the plastic tub and the contacts. What I have done is horrible wiring technique because if for some reason the ends of the wires decide to heat up, then they will melt through the plastic, and I have a ruined hood. The sockets were $2 each, and I didnt want buy 6 of the $4 a piece ones. I cut a corner and hopefully I don't pay for it. I will try and get some pics sometime if I take the wiring back apart so that you can see...

Its been awhile since the last update, but I have had a few problems in deciding exactly how I was going to do this.

Instead of a hydro setup starting from c99 seed, I will be using dirt and two cali mist clones.

My friend was trying to do a SOG with some cali mist clones. He was using an aero bubbler setup to start the clones, and then transferring to dirt. The roots got too long I think and they struggled to adapt to the dirt. 4 clones barely made it and he has let me take two of them. They came in small bio degradable pots and I have switched them to larger pots.

I am using miracle grow fertilized soil and miracle grow peat moss as my soil. The distribution for the potting soil is 21/7/14, and is mixed with a 3:2 ratio with the peat moss.

The clones were in pretty bad shape when I got them and they are shown in the pictures taken outside of the cab. They are poor pictures, but the clones have not branched very much and the leaves are showing quite a bit of yellow. The stems are also showing a purpleish color.

I have read the yellow leaves can be from a lack of N and the stems from a lack of P. Could this be happening when the potting soil used in the small pots was fertilized. They have been fed distilled water with superthrive.

When I placed the plants in the larger pots I watered them heavily and will be waiting for dirt to completely dry out so that the roots will stretch out in search for moisture.

Thats all I have for now. This is my first grow and any comments and help would really be appreciated.

It has been awhile since the last update. Mainly because of technical reasons.


Anyhow here is what has happened so far.

Plants were re potted in to 4 gal containers.

2 inches of Hydrotron
then a mixture of peat moss, fertilized potting soil, generic potting soil, and hydrated lime.

These pictures are after the plants first 12 hour dark cycle. Day 2 of flower. I did make one mistake in this process. I initiated an extended period of light so that I could change my light schedule from day time to night time. I read later that it is better to give an extended period of darkness before the flowering cycle. We will see how that effects the plants as I will be taking pictures of the canopy everyday.


One question for any scrog fans out there.... How long should I wait before completely trimming off all foliage underneath the canopy. I want to give them enough time to try and make it to the canopy,but if they don't make it they will only be a waste of energy.

And, currently feeding Botanicare's Organic Soil Fertilizer 1.4/4/5

I have a powder blooming fert but its a 0/50/0. Would this be helpful to supplement.

Here are the pics, canopy and undergrowth

hey man they look really nice, alot better than when u got em. eep up the good work.

Currently in day 17 of flower.

Things are going good, better than expected.

In a 2 foot by 10 inch screen I have around 30 bud sites, 10-15 of them quite large already.

Lights have been kept no more than 2-3 inches from the screen until a few days ago. Buds are starting to rise.

Fan leaves look healthy for the most part but some are experiencing some heat problems (leaves that are a fraction of an inch from the bulb) One leave I have a question on.. it was taken from the lower canopy.

Pics shown are throughout the process, last one being the latest.


Let me know what ya'll think.

:chainsaw:

nice looking grow, it will be nice to see how they turn out. keep it updated!

this is a very nice setup. I meen very nice indeed.

now I need to look for a dresser like that. for my next grow.

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D is what I think about this kind of grow box.

I gettin super excited....

I have over 30 budsites just poppin.

Did the final trimming on the undergrowth, and got about 9 usable clones out of it. Aerocloning right now.

I may have over fertilized. I have been using 30 mL/gal until two days ago and I went up to 35 because the plants had been handling 30 well. All leaves on the top canopy seem fine, however some below the canopy are showing brown just on the tips of their leaves.

Anyway, here are some pics.

that looks fucken badass badass dude. woo hoo
I so wanna build 1 of these kind of grow boxes. cuz it looks like it can hold the lights at a good level over the plants.

I say it looks like there gunna ba a nice scrog grow.:D :thumbsup:

I have a couple of questions if anyone could answer.

Its day 30 of flower. My buds have very white hairs for the most part. However, some of the buds have shorter hairs with an amber tint. My camera sucks so its hard to see in the pictures. I did over fertilize about a week ago and I saw the tips of the leaves looking burnt. The leaves are much better now, but the amber on the hairs of the buds has stayed ?

Anyone know whats happening ?


Here are some recent pictures :

been awhile since i checked out this thread
lookin good! dresser and armoire setups are really discreet
anyways your amber hairs are the first signs that your buds are starting to mature. go get yourself and get a jewelers loupe or other type of magnification instrument and start keeping an eye on those trichromes aka crystals. when they're a nice mix of cloudy and amber is when i like to harvest.
oh and about your question awhile back about the hps and temps. my ventilation system kept it down to between 65-80 night and day respectively
i harvested 73 grams from the one plant, next time around im doing a dwc and hoping to boost that up to 4ozs.
4oz off one plant under a 250watter....now that'll be something to talk about!

the amber has dissapeared on some of the more healthier buds. Is day 30 too early for them to be turning amber because trichs are filling out ?

id say your plants have about 30 days left of flower.
dont worry too much about the pistils, watch the color of the trichs

got a magnifying glass and went to town. you can definately see the amber hairs now. I definately have a lot to learn on keeping the buds a uniform height. I have some almost touching the lights while others are barely above the screen. Knowing exactly when the early flowering period stretch ends is a key in doing this.