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Wondering about Nitrogen during flower.
The plant needs more during initial phase of flowering, but less as time moves on.
Is there a concensus as to when to cut back, something you can look for? You can't cut it out completely, or can you?
This is just a brain bounce thread I think.
:smokin:
I stop all added nitrogen a week before I shift to 12/12 lighting period ... when I grew out a Willie Nelson (14 weeks in flower). I did add a WEAK dose midway thru, just because it dragged on forever ... Willie didn't like it, burned ... :wtf:
yea, depending on the strain, you can use regular veg food for the first 2-3 weeks, but after that it can hinder growth. i usually switch to bloom formula after little clusters start to form @the top of the plant...
hope this helps!
Peace!
I really keep liquid-delivered N out of my bloom ferts PERIOD.
The closest I will come is mixing in about a teaspoon fish emulsion per gallon of compost mix for the repot I do about 2 weeks into flower. Mix that up THOROUGHLY. The roots will get that little N boost as they reach it. And the N in fish emulsion is easy enough to flush out of the soil if you see signs of burn.
If you are one of the folks who use CalMag you have plenty of N for flowering. ;)
I have a fertilizer called 'Hawaiian Bud & Bloom' 5-50-17 with chelated micronutrients. Would this be useful Stinkyattic? TX
I have been having a happy time running some fertilizer experiments during flowering. After a week I have cut out the one with the most nitrogen. Obviously not doing the trick. Got a little burn on one plant. Flushing tomorrow.
So I flushed the plants and now one has some interesting twists to some leaves?
What is this anyway?
Otherwise the plant is so healthy. I have another post about it in Basic. Thanks
Happy! Except for the odd leaves?
Leaves will do that sqirrly corkscrew shit when the plant is going back into veg. the extra nitrogen might have confused your plant a lil, or maybe your getting some light pollution and not even realizing it. Probaly just from changing the nutrient back to a higher nitrogen level
If I cut clones too late the exact same shit happens to the new growth. It looks all twisted and odd.
I noticed the consensus about nitrogen in flower, I was just looking at some of the bloom nutrients on the market, and wondering why the flowering formulas have such high amounts of N.
Ionic bloom lists 3-2-6 for their flowering formula, and Technaflora which I am using this run is 4-4-9
any thoughts?
Personally I run roughly triple the amount of P and K to N since I have to maintain a steady supply in my reservoir as running clones 12/12 off the bat means you semi-veg while flowering. Add a touch of calmag and let it roll from there.
It is so rare I give ANY form of N other than what is in OF. IF I give, I give bat guano, dried, in the first couple weeks out of the domed tray.
The last repotting is at 21 days into flower, so that is the last time I 'give' nitrogen.
Nitrogen tastes just flipping awful, can't flush it all out if there is too much, the plants seem to hold it.
The longer I grow, the less and more specific the nutrients I give. I can hold all the nute products I give in one hand, so not much in any form.
This is my first time running with the technaflora line
So for their bloom formula as listed on the bottle, it would be 4-4-9
at a 1 to 1 ratio(what is recomended)
I was thinking of going with a 1.0(boost) to 1.5 ratio(bloom)
I was thinking that would put me at 2.25N - 3P - 6.25K
Any input? 5th week of flower, on a 9 week strain.
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I am curious as to the whole nutrient ratio conundrum.Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
When talking about red and blue light, you point out that the solar spectrum changes very little from spring to fall, so that changing indoor light spectrum is probably unnecessary.
Well, 'natural' outdoor soil changes not at all during the entire plant's life and outdoor plants consistently outperform indoor plants as to size and yield. (Of course, I understand there are many other factors at play.) So are there any real controlled studies that point to the need to change nutes?
hope this helps.
-shake
Natural soil changes constantly in composition and nutrient availability. Factors like microbial cultures in the soil, to the rain that falls from the sky, to the ground temperature, to the amount of wastes the plant produces over its life cycle, everything causes all sorts of chemical reactions, makes different nutrients more or less available, etc. In uncontrolled outdoor conditions, almost everything except the light is constantly varying to different degrees.Quote:
Originally Posted by RackitMan
Of course, but the soil does not sense and change to accomodate the needs of the plant.