CANOE upgrade... it's gonna get a SAIL!!!

With the recent success of my kayak upgrade, I got bold and just started working on building my 8 foot Bear Creek solo into a sailing canoe.

Here's a couple first pics- it was a tag sale find, $50, with a couple HUGE holes in it. I patched them up with fiberglass and epoxy resin. It looks like poo but is very stable and a great boat.

It's getting a bamboo lateen rig, similar to a sunfish, wiht a short mast, 2 spars joined at one end, and a triangular sail, possibly with a single batten. Control is just 2 sheets for tacking and a single main halyard to drop the entire rig in an emergency.

There's going to be a rather large rudder, and either a set of leeboards (ugly and dorky), or a retractable centerboard fit through the hull just behind the seat.

I expect the boat to handle decently, not great, but better than paddling against the wind/current!!!

I have been on some 7 and 10 day canoe trips. We have tied ground tarps to the paddles to create a bojangled sail. It worked wicked and gave you a bit of a break.

That's right, tarps, rain flies, paddles, etc... So if halfass sails work fine, I can't wait to try this one out.

Hey Stinky.....if I put up a pic of our little styrofoam boat would you be able to give me an idea of what size trolling motor to put on it? It's supposed to be at least six inches below the waterline......does it have to be exact or can it be longer? its got a little keel in the middle that's two feet long below the boat.....is it ok if the motor is longer than six inches but above the where the keel ends?

Does this post even make any sense?

I don't know shit about motors but is it an electric trolling motor? I think it can be a little longer but keeping the motor itself safe. Start a thread and maybe some geeky bass fisherman can help you out.

Cool....I will....it IS an electric motor....my hubby is too lazy to row. Its that or drag the boat back up to the lake (15m) and put it in the water to see where the waterline is and the hubby says he won't go near the boat and the water together until there is a motor around. :wtf:

Thanks moderator.... :thumbsup:

Very cool...I want a kayak real bad right now....

How rigid is your canoe will it need any reinforcing to stop it twisting and going in a big circle.

Very rigid. It's fiberglass, and if I do any through-hull work, it will be SUPER reinforced.
Also, the force of wind needed to twist the boat would flip me plunk right in the water, so I'm not worrried. That's why I'm doing the halyard on a quick-release cleat rather than a mooring-style cleat.

Kul sound like you got it under control. I would love to see some of the finnished pics.

The rigging is getting there. 3 pieces of bamboo with some eyes bolted on to attach lines.
It's virtually impossible to find quick release cleats this far inland so I've got a regular one for now.
It's getting a sheet on the other side too for better control- only the starboard sheet is rigged so far.
You can see how the mast is seated into the flotation block using a length of thin plastic sink drain pipe.
The 2 pulleys lift and spread the spars. That's the line you can see run aft to the cleat.
The spars are joined to the mast on metal rings that are free to slide up and down and swivel about the mast as you tack. You can't really get a good look at them in these pics.
As you can see, the seat needs a bit of work too. I'll just weave in a new seat out of flat tie-down strapping.