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A couple days ago my partner and I moved a few plants into flowering, from a HO T5 light to a 250w HPS. They were healthy when moved. Fed Peters 20-20-20 in veg, and Jacks Bloom 10-30-20 when put into flowering.
a few of them have speckles on the leaves, and I've never seen anything like it.. Checked for bugs, found nothing. They're in a spaghaum moss, perlite, and vermiculite mix.
help??
are you going to have to repot soon?
moss=no good=ph less than 5 :eek:
those speckles could be either thrip damage just scarring over, or the start of a pH problem from your peat moss.
Whatever you can do to change the soil and stabilize pH in the proper range will help.
Looks to me like more than one thing going on-
The "speckle" damage sure looks like feeding- I associate that pattern with mites more than thrips, but Stinky's our resident thrip expert ( ;) ).
It also looks like you've got some edge necrosis that I'd be thinking was more likely micro related- but it looks like your macros are OK, so probabley pH.
Check pH of source water, mixed nute, run-off- In that much moss, I'd wanna keep feed pH pretty nuetral ( 6.3+) and make sure that media/run-off is staying 5.8 plus. Media/run-off is the measurement that matters here.
I'd also look at the underside of damaged leaves w/ a magnifiying glass- mites/thrips are not something that you're going to see w/ bare eyes. Even w/ glass, I'd be surprised if you see an adult thrip. ( Imagine if Salvadore Dali was designing a lobster). Mites look like tiny spiders, because they're tiny spiders.
ugh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
There ARE bugs!!!!!!!! they're tiny and white and we're gonna try to take care of it, if you guys have any ideas besides neem and grow shop insect killer?
tiny and pale? look like a splinter? =thrips
not like a splinter = something else lol
my best thrip fighting luck has been bonide rotenone with pyrethrins but never in flower, and forget an organic grow lol!!! other tahn that, a pyrethrin bug bomb, then another 3 days later.
rhizome you will be happy to hear that i no longer have thrips in my veg room because of that nasty kerosene-stankin' shit. YAY!!! thrips are gone!!!
I used safer's insecticidal soap (at lowe's probably walmart) for my thrips that I had in my houseplant, I don't know if people use it on cannabis though....I thought they did.
Isn't tobacco juice good for that too?
:jointsmile: Bree
Umm....flame....
Lots and lots of flame....
Thrips are difficult to eliminate as
A) Eggs are laid in the very youngest growth and flower buds, which are difficult to penetrate w/ spray.
B) Larvae grow and feed between the layers of the leaf- also difficult to spray.
c) Upon emergance from the leaf tissue, immatures drop to the media and puepate there, underground- also difficult to spray.
Takes a systematic response- bombs work well, but you have to re-apply at least once in order to eliminate subterraneans.
Google " thrip reproductive cycle" and you'll find all kinds of info on life cycle/temperature- use this and the average temps of your room to determine the appropriate timing.
I'm not sure if the thrips are getting flamed or me...I'm thinking the latter :(.Quote:
Originally Posted by rhizome
After much thought about this, I don't know if safer's would be that great for cannabis- only because it took several applications on my spider plants and you just don't have that kind of time when dealing with our plants. Although, ICMF states that safer's can be used:
Thrips
Thrips are really tiny, but can be seen by the naked eye. Some may have wings and some may not. Thrips reproduce rapidly, especially in tight places. That is what makes them hard to get rid of when using pesticides. The suck the sap right out of your plant with there piercing mouths, which makes the leaves look like they turned white. You can tell when you have thrips by taking a look at your leaves, the leaves will look as if there chlorophyll have been ripped right off the plant. Plants that are damaged canā??t be healed thus making it harder for the plant to absorb light. SO if left untreated the thrips will kill the plants. Damage also can be seen by the greenish black specks of there poop they leave on leaves. Also the plants will show silver patchs from scar tissue. Depending on the severity at first, thrip damage might look like spider mite damage untill it increases in damage and then thrips case is for sure when you see the greenness replace with big parts of white.
One good way to repel thrips for those growing outside is to use garlic, this is a good way to keep them away before you get them. The color yellow attracts the thrips and should be advised not to have this color around your grow.. If you already have them using neem oil, and or lady bugs can get rid of them. If the infestation is bad then you need to use biological solution like, pyrethrin-like insecticides. Picture 8 shows thrips damage.
Other Products include:
Chemicals
Hot Pepper Wax,Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide (which can be used right to the day of harvest),GNATROL( used in hydro in the water as well as soil),Doc's Neem Pest Soap,Safer Sticky Stakes,TR-11000 Pyrethrum.
I do not see tobbacco juice listed, therefore I retract that part of my statement.
I will iterate however that I did get rip of thrips, mites, and symphilids (kids threw dirt from outside in the pot :eek: ) in my houseplant although it took two or three applications. Symphilids was the hardest in my situation....
Good Luck,
:jointsmile: Bree
delete double post
Try neem and tobaco juice, It works pretty good:smokin:
heh there's more than one way to skin a cat I suppose.. I interpret this last to mean, send those buggies to their firey demise... a flamethrower perhaps? The shops need to start stocking those things, lol!Quote:
Originally Posted by rhizome
Thanks stinky! I wasn't quite sure what was getting flamed, but a delightful picture does come to mind....bugs (thrips) engulfed in flames....at least in this application!Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkyattic
:jointsmile: Bree
We picked up the bonide rotenone with pyrethrins, and applied it today. Haven't been able to find a bomb, but still looking at various garden centers.
Sprayed down the plants, and plan to continue to do so until improvement shows
Okay don't forget to knock off the rotenone like, SOON, before you get bud formation. It takes a while to break down. Also since it is so strong, be careful of possible light sensitivity if you overdo it. It shoudn't take too much, promise! :D Like only a couple applications. And keeping your temps low slows down trhip reproduction.
Sigh. all the stress turned 2 of the plants hermie.
this suuucks
Dude, I'm so there with you, I just lost a BC-III to hermie from stress from my mistreatment of thirps. Hopefully I caught it and eliminated it in time. I have 2 rooted clones of the same plant and I'm wondering whether to keep them or not...
I am going to be searching out bug bombs today. Hopefully the one garden store in my area will have them.
start hanging a No-Pest Strip in your room (not necessary for it to be in the cabinet, etc. itself), and you will probably never have a bug problem - remove it a couple weeks before harvest - I've used them for many years, never a bug, and no noticeable surge in brain damage :wtf: just kidding, they are safe enough :smokin:
lol "I'm completely sane! It's the rest of the world that is crazy!"Quote:
Originally Posted by freewheelinfrank
how about putting the plant in the fridge (if you have a spare, empty fridge...) not cold enough to kill the plant, (some stress) but it slows the plants processes, think clones or fresh-cut flowers :stoned:; cold enough to kill most any insect found on plant or in soil, check the fridge temps first though;
an hour or so of the low 40's should do the trick; or at least break the life cycle in more than one stage.