If your humidity is around 20% or lower can it be bad for the plant? If it is I don't understand why it would be bad for the plant because the leaves don't absorb water do they?
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If your humidity is around 20% or lower can it be bad for the plant? If it is I don't understand why it would be bad for the plant because the leaves don't absorb water do they?
From what I've read - and this could be biased information, so take it with a grain of salt - but humidity levels lower than 30% prevent the stomata on the leaves from opening fully (or at all) and reduce the transfer of C02 and other gases to the cells of the plant. Slow growth and symptoms similar to nutrient burn can result, but aren't always typical. If most other conditions are optimal, excessively low humidity may not pose as much of a problem. It certainly beats excessively high humidity any day.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sjapp
Yes, water and nutes are absorbed thru the leaves.
I live in the desert. During the summer the temps get to the 120's, and humidity get's up into the teens . You mentioned nothing about the heat, but excessive heat combined with low humidity, and the plant can struggle to keep upper zones hydrated.
I veg indoors, and mist the plants once daily, as they much prefer the higher humidity. But I flower in an outdoor shed, where the A/C keeps the temps around 90ish and the plants have little to no problems adjusting. Keep an eye on them daily, especially when they start filling-out. The larger the plant, the more moisture they lose thru the leaves. (transpiration)
Oversize pots will hold moisture a bit longer, but don't keep the soil wet all the time, will cause root-rot.
It can be a fine balance between "ok...I need to water later today" and "shit...I should have watered yesterday."
ha youre so humble, you sound like you know exactly what your talking about. so should i mist the plants or get a humidifier?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Clandestine
I'm lucky enough not to suffer from extremes in humidity, but if I were needing to raise it just enough to keep the plants happy, I'd probably spray them with a fine mist like Rusty suggested. There's less chance of over-saturating the air and not noticing it. I wouldn't, however, do any spraying during the last month of flowering. Even though it's generally suggested that higher humidity is a good thing in flowering, I'd rather lessen the risk of mold. But that's just me. If you happen to go the route of a humidifier, it would probably be a good idea to use distilled water... especially if you've got noticeably hard water at your house. Take care.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sjapp
colorado water is pretty damn good. maybe im turning a blind eye to it, but i don't think it needs to be distilled. ill mist for now, until i can get a humidifier.
thanks
Rusty, is it difficult for you to keep your temps down for your indoor grows in the summers with that kind of heat?
And regarding the outdoor, the plants do not mind growing in 90 degree heat? Any strain?
This would be great news for me, as I cannot keep temps in my grow cab under 85, as I can't seem to get the ambient temps under 75. I was dissapointed because High Times and many things I have read on these boards say growth virtually stops at 90.
peace
you should try and get more exhaust. if you have a greater exhaust than intake it creates a low pressure vacuum effect in the room or box which causes cooling. its how all cooling systems work, be it your fridge or your acQuote:
Originally Posted by melodious fellow
Nobody has said it solely/specifically but I thought that the humidity effects plants a bit like heat does us.
I thought the humidity specifically changed the rate of transpiration.
It also effects the amount of fungus that can viably grow.
Hope these simple pointers help,
Peace Out + GL,
Denial
Yes. But alas, I have no choice. Wifes friends (the church ladies) come over all the time, so indoor flower is out of the question.Quote:
Originally Posted by melodious fellow
During the summer, I do have to stagger the 400w HPS' (12 to 14" or so from tops ) so only one is on at a time. I have it circuted to work like a light mover, light on the left is on for 6 hours, then just before it turns off, the light on the right comes on for 6 hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by melodious fellow
It's usually around 110f outside, and the flower room is ok till that point. Once it get's up to the occational 120f, I raise the lights.
130's outside, and I turn off the lights. Helps that I'm disabled, and am home most of the time.
I also try to plan it so my Swazi Skunk (sativa) is the strain in line for the summer temps, but can't think of a strain I haven't finished in the heat, weather it's sativa, indica or hybrid.
Instead of my usual 3 gallon pots, I flower in 5 gallon pots. Holds moisture a bit longer. Daily waterings up to around 3/4 gal per day per pot. Flushing the ladies is staggered over a week, too. Otherwise humidity skyrockets uncontrollably.
Occational foliar for deficiencies, but keep it to a minimum, and only on the underbranches.
I put an a/c unit in there, and it blows directly over the tops of the plants, and use a 12" fan blowing the cooler air up into the plants. I also have one of those breaker access panels (12" x 12") that is installed tword the top of my 9' tall room. I open it up, and have a dedicated exhaust fan blowing hot air out at all times. The intake is from the a/c.
Alls I can say...it's a dry heat, and I strive to keep it dry. The first year, I misted heavy, and often, thinking they would like it. Burned the tops, and developed mold.Quote:
Originally Posted by melodious fellow
Is it optimal...? No, but it most definatelly works. It can take an extra week or two to finish, but compared to my other options, I'll take it.
Also, active trichome production starts a week or two later than usual, but come finish, they're just fine.:thumbsup: