Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
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The 12V adjusts from 10.61V to 13.27V (exactly, every time, measured with a Fluke 87) and the 15V goes from 13.21V to 16.55V.
With a resistive load?
Dunno, I'll experiment. I've got a 60W 12V incandescent bulb I used to light a shed, powered by a rechargeable boat battery. When I hooked it up to check sag the Meanwell (I'm gonna write it like you and save keystrokes) stayed pretty tight.
P.S. Haven't fried anything (else) yet. Following all precautions: wrist strap, no touchee stray leads that have been soldered to the emitters, power up / down while connected, etc.
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Gettin a little gun shy?
Well, being extra cautious. Actually feel a bit more at ease thinking I understand what cooked the first batch of leds. :tin foil hat: Not looking forward to my credit card bill, but no choice...I had to retire the 400 HPS last night. Couldn't keep temps below 90. Stuck a 4 x 2' T5 HO in there meantime, but I know from experience that's not sufficient.
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Since you are not going to get more than 45W. into 3 blue leds, the PLN60-15 will be just peachy.
Got it. Of course, the original plan was to run 2 blues in each light. Probably should have ordered a PLN 100-15 instead, coulda run all 4 with it. . Might need to get another 60-15 to do this right. ;)
Rambling, need more coffee....
Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
Had a thought before a drifted off this morning. Was wondering about how my timer (an Intermatic household cheapy) is going to react to the load of a Procyon and my 2 homemade 120W lights. Started thinking about splitting the lights up between 2 timers, but it's hard to keep 'em in synch.
Then it hit me. :fish: Start up the Blues and the Procyon (blue heavy) first, then 10-20 (whatever) minutes later the reds come on. At the end of the day cycle the plants would get that same interval of just red.
This would kinda mimic the changes atmospheric dust, etc. cause to the sun's spectrum every day --blue mornings, red evenings. Anyway, seemed like a good idea at the time. :stoned:
Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
"I've got a 60W 12V incandescent bulb I used to light a shed, powered by a rechargeable boat battery. When I hooked it up to check sag the Meanwell (I'm gonna write it like you and save keystrokes) stayed pretty tight. "
Incandescent are kind of self-limiting.
Hotter filament = higher resistance.
Just the opposite of emitter junctions which draw more current as they get hotter.
Thermal runaway happens fast too!
A 10 ohm 20W. resistor will draw 1.2A at 12V. and is linear, thus mo' betta for checking sag.
if you switch a 100 ohm resistor parallel to the 10 ohm you can have an almost instant 10% load change.
Tip:
Switch that Fluke to AC and hang it on the meanwell output while changing the load.
Should still read zero = (no change in DC level.)
A triggered 'scope will give you more detail than you need, but a simple AC meter on a DC source will sometimes find gremlins like ripple, spikes, oscillation or induced RF.
Has saved me much grief.
We now must pause for a pidgin moment.
"All kine sing get in dere.
Den LED get all buss' up"!:rastasmoke:
OK, now I'm over it.
Proper english grammar can be quite inefficient, ya?
Pidgin is a lazy guy's friend.:thumbsup:
If it's not clear at times, don't hesitate to ask what the hell I'm on about.:D
'loha
Haole boi
Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadedHermie
Had a thought before a drifted off this morning. Was wondering about how my timer (an Intermatic household cheapy) is going to react to the load of a Procyon and my 2 homemade 120W lights. Started thinking about splitting the lights up between 2 timers, but it's hard to keep 'em in synch.
Then it hit me. :fish: Start up the Blues and the Procyon (blue heavy) first, then 10-20 (whatever) minutes later the reds come on. At the end of the day cycle the plants would get that same interval of just red.
Howzat again?!
This would kinda mimic the changes atmospheric dust, etc. cause to the sun's spectrum every day --blue mornings, red evenings. Anyway, seemed like a good idea at the time. :stoned:
I t'ink it's once in a blue noon an far red in the morning and evening, ya?:jointsmile:
Maybe dat's not an acorn.;)
Most timers are rated at 5 or 6 hundred watts non-inductive and should handle the whole shebang.
Are you using the same space for vegging and blooming?
I get more bud per buck by dividing the grow room and running the veg side 18/6 and the bloom side 12/12.
It was a snap to do using reflectix as the divider.
Here's some incentive for ya.
(See if we can ease the pain of that Credit card bill.)
[attachment=o214209]
[attachment=o214210]
[attachment=o214211]
Kinda fluffy.
The room temps hit 92 F. in the summer.
The winter buds are denser.
Dunno how big, yet.
I'll try to keep ya posted
[attachment=o214212]
Post mortem.
I need bigger net pots with bigger slots.
This gal quit the dance early 'cause her shoes were too tight.
[attachment=o214213]
These were raised dichroic.
Pre-CFL and pre-660nm.
Seems to be working.:dance:
Wish I had a procyon. for the seedlings though.
Thinking of buying one of those cheap, ($220. E-bay), UFO knock-offs for a separate cloning cabinet.
Yes, I has a soldering iron, but I'm bone lazy lately.
Waiting 'til yours is finished to use what we learn here in the design of my next "Bud-light".
The PFAA, (Photosynthesis facilitation and augmentation apparatus).
From Carmine cervical co-op corp.
You know, da Bubba Gro 2000.:D
Actually, I have no commercial intentions.
Just wanna build the best damn photon pump possible.
Anybody that has the notion and the ambition is welcome to run with whatever I come up with here.
What goes around comes around.
Copywrong 2009
All rights reversed.
Now,,
I'se havin' fun.
Aloha,
Weezard
Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
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I t'ink it's once in a blue noon an far red in the morning and evening, ya?
Guess yer right. Knew it changed. All at once is easy, so I'll do that.
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Here's some incentive for ya.
Day-ummmm. Absolutely beautiful, Weeze. Alas, I only have access to bagseed genetics. Another reason to maximize performance, and a reason a grow log by me might not impress anybody enough to look at leds. Besides, we are talking about tomatoes, right? :thumbsup:
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Are you using the same space for vegging and blooming?
Butt of coarse not! :D Got two side-by side closets with the bifold doors. 2' x 5', 7' + ceiling. The light trap venting knocks a tad off the floor footprint, but it's adequate to keep slices on my sandwiches...;) Veg in one (24/0 with t-8's and misc. CFL's for side fills. Ventilation pulls from the veg closet into the flower closet, through a carbon scrubber, and exhausts into the room. Gotta live with the heat, no way to get it outside; wouldn't help if I did....
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A 10 ohm 20W. resistor will draw 1.2A at 12V. and is linear, thus mo' betta for checking sag.
if you switch a 100 ohm resistor parallel to the 10 ohm you can have an almost instant 10% load change.
Got a 25 ohm 50W "hot dog" round here somewhere; can set that up for 10 ohms. Got a 100 ohm built into a patch cable to discharge little caps. Prolly just half-watt though. Enough for this test?
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If it's not clear at times, don't hesitate to ask what the hell I'm on about.
'loha
Haole boi
I'm getting the gist of it. Used to hang with a Norwegian girl who grew up on Guam when I was a lad (wistful smile crosses an old man's face :rolleyes:) Pretty sure "Howlee-boy" was not a term of endearment, though. ;)
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Caution! You must be taller than Goofy to view the BP!
BP = blind Pig? Not getting this one. :i feel stupid:
Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
"BP = blind Pig? Not getting this one. http://boards.cannabis.com/images/sm...l%20stupid.gif "
What? Too mixed a metaphor?
BP, Bud Porn.:)
"I'm getting the gist of it. Used to hang with a Norwegian girl who grew up on Guam when I was a lad (wistful smile crosses an old man's face :rolleyes:) Pretty sure "Howlee-boy" was not a term of endearment, though. ;)"
Can be!
There's the descriptive haole that just means "white guy"
Then there's the perjorative "F*kin' Howlee" that don't malama da aina!
I be da former.:hippy:
No got time fo' da latter.
"Besides, we are talking about tomatoes, right?"
Mais oui mon frere!
Greenpinelane dot com tomatoes at that.
Sorry for being obscure.
"It is my nature"
Da Weeze
He be haole, but he O K.
Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
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Switch that Fluke to AC and hang it on the meanwell output while changing the load.
Should still read zero = (no change in DC level.)
Well, it holds 12V DC real well. Adding the 100 ohm resistor jumps the AC reading from 142.8 mV to 152.8 mV. Seems to ramp up nice and smooth, though. Is this acceptable?
No other anomalies noted, but I probably wouldn't know 'em if I saw 'em. A hundredth of a volt seems okay.....
Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
About time. Got 6 reds and 2 blues epoxied down and lighting up. :)
Here's the voltages they want in order to draw 1.2A each:
Reds
1 10.6
2 10.9 (10.6V gives 1.1A)
3 10.6
4 10.6
5 10.6
6 10.8 (10.6V gives 1.1A)
Blues
1 14.7
2 15.2 (14.7V gives 1.0A)
So, I can balance 'em out with resistors, or not. I can run all the reds
at 10.6 and have the 2 stiff ones running just a tad cooler @ 1.1A. :cool:
I can run 3 of the 10.6's together on the PLN 60-12, and get another 60-12 to drive the other 3 @ 10.8V, with a resistor to protect the lone 10.6V in that string. Or, if the 60-12 would handle it, I could run all 4 of the 10.6V reds together, but then I'm still looking for a driver for the 2 remaining reds. Not so sure "pushing" the 60-12 gets me anywhere in terms of matching the drivers up with the leds. Weezard, whatcha think? :confused:
For the blues, I can put a resistor on the 14.7V led and run 'em @ 15.1V. Since I may have overkill on the blues anyway, I could also just run at 14.7V and let the 15.1V blue cruise along a 1.0A. When I run the pair at 14.7V they look the same to me: too bright to look at. :smokin:
Back in a minute with resistor calcs. Don't tell me the answer! :detective1:
Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadedHermie
About time. Got 6 reds and 2 blues epoxied down and lighting up. :)
Here's the voltages they want in order to draw 1.2A each:
Reds
1 10.6
2 10.9 (10.6V gives 1.1A)
3 10.6
4 10.6
5 10.6
6 10.8 (10.6V gives 1.1A)
Blues
1 14.7
2 15.2 (14.7V gives 1.0A)
So, I can balance 'em out with resistors, or not. I can run all the reds
at 10.6 and have the 2 stiff ones running just a tad cooler @ 1.1A. :cool:
Best, for heat and efficiency!
I can run 3 of the 10.6's together on the PLN 60-12, and get another 60-12 to drive the other 3 @ 10.8V, with a resistor to protect the lone 10.6V in that string. Or, if the 60-12 would handle it, I could run all 4 of the 10.6V reds together, but then I'm still looking for a driver for the 2 remaining reds. Not so sure "pushing" the 60-12 gets me anywhere in terms of matching the drivers up with the leds. Weezard, whatcha think? :confused:
Not worth the trouble.
Once you hit 1 amp you have a working light.
Hotter emitters yield less light.
1.1 amps will use 12 Watts.
You also have 152 mv. of ripple to deal with so I'd run them a little cool.
For the blues, I can put a resistor on the 14.7V led and run 'em @ 15.1V. Since I may have overkill on the blues anyway, I could also just run at 14.7V and let the 15.1V blue cruise along a 1.0A. When I run the pair at 14.7V they look the same to me: too bright to look at. :smokin:
That's right.
You have twice as much blue as you need.
And will prolly be dimming them anyway so I'd run 'em both at 14.7 to keep the heatsink :cool:.
Back in a minute with resistor calcs. Don't tell me the answer! :detective1:
Calc away. It's good practice.;)
Well done!
Weeze
Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
E/I = R (rounding to 2 places cause of the tolerances)
So to drop:
.5 volt at 1.2A we need .5/1.2 = .42 ohm resistor
.4V...................................... .33
.3V..................................... .25
.2V..................................... .17
Radio shack's got .47 ohm, 5 watt resistors. And I've got some 1 ohm around here somewhere.
R1 x R2
--------- = R total
R1 + R2
so a .47 parallelled with a 1.0 gives .32 Ohm. Two .47's would give .235 ohm. Gotta get to Rat Sack before they close-- I can figure out how to combine them to get what I need by using THE LAW. :dance::clap::woohoo: Thanks Weezard!!!!
