Foliar Feeding & Liquid Light, Miracle Food or Hoax?

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Originally Posted by stinkyattic

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The thread is kind of a mess right now to stick- if someone would like to write a more concise and easy-to-follow tutorial on foliar feeding using this method I will put it in the FAQs, which are due for some serious maintenance pretty soon.

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Opie,
this is ur thread, so, its ur call.
I can invest some time if u cannot.(i think the clean up would take about an hour or 2 to do it properly)
I dont mind helping the community, but it is your thread, u have right of first refusal.

Stinky, Thanks:thumbsup:

I can clean up the thread but information in deleted posts would be lost. So if one of you wants to go through and do a cut-n-paste of the relevant stuff, that would be good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rock.Steady

hey Fred.
how do u control the power coming out of that airless gun?
from my experience, usually u reqr at least 1000 psi to atomize properly. IMO this will created a powerful/forceful mist that can certainly knock those lil guys over in about a second.
additionally, your overspray must be going everywhere and creating a high moisture level in the air of the area which would in turn cause the mist to adhere to anything within a 5-10 ft radius. This would include, but not limited to, your electrical equipment. I would also assume u are getting moisture droplets forming on all surrounding walls. with that i would worry about things like promoting mold/mildew.

moisture plus electricity is a lousy combination in my book.

as u can tell, i am very familiar with this type of equipment.

any further info u can supply would be helpful, and thanks for playing.:D

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Its really not a problem, It comes out very fine mist. If your getting that much over spray you must reduce your pressure. I dont find the over spray a problem. These rooms were built to grow in. all the outlets are up high. I also have dehumidifiers in the rooms so while the humidity goes up when I spray its brought back under control quickly

Here is a study explaining the befifits of a folier feed with music just before lights on.

Carlson spent many hours in the University of Minnesota library, studying plant physiology. Struck by the idea that certain sound frequencies might help a plant breathe better and absorb more nutrients, he experimented with various frequencies until, with the help of an audio engineer, he found one range that was consonant with the early morning bird chirping that helps plants open wider their stomata, or mouth-like pores. On every leaf there are thousands of such small openings. Each stoma--less that 1/1000 of inch across--allows oxygen and water to pass out of the leaf, or transpire, while other gases, notably carbon dioxide, move in to be transformed by photosynthesis into sugars. During dry conditions, the stomata close to prevent a wilting plant from drying out completely.
Photomicrographs show plant stomata opening wider to Carlson's frequencies, while a Philips 505 Scanning Electron Microscope shows substantially higher stomata density on a leaf treated with Sonic Bloom; additionally, the individual stomata are more developed and better defined.



As stomata normally imbibe the morning dew, sucking up nutrients in the form of free flowing trace elements, why not, thought Carlson, develop a special organic spray to apply to the leaves along with the sound that induces stomata to open. Even in poor soil, Carlson reasoned, plants could be well nourished with a foliar spray containing the right combination of elements. To develop such an effective nutrient solution took Carlson 15 years of trial and error, experimenting in labs throughout the country, funded by a caring "angel." Carlson needed to find not only what elements serve to make a plant flourish; he needed to find their proper balance. Just the right amount of Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphorus is needed, but not the overdose recommended by the chemical companies that swamp the plant to the exclusion of trace elements vital to its health. Too much of any one element can distort or even kill a plant.
To find the proper balance required endless testing with radioactive isotopes and Geiger counters to trace the elements' translocation from leaves to stems to peak to roots. Among the first natural substances used was Gibberilic acid, naturally derived from rice roots, needed by every living plant. Eventually Carlson included sixty-four trace elements derived from natural plant products and from seaweed; he also added chelated amino-acids and growth stimulants, altering the surface tension of the water base to make it more easily absorbed.

ok, these sprouts r roughly 2 weeks old.
2 weeks ago they broke soil n were in solo cups.
1 week ago they moved to their permanent home.

1 week ago, they also got their first shower of LL.

they are under 1 each 26/100w blue spec.cfl's approx 3-6 inches away

about 3-4 days ago i gave them water only shower as i had growing concerns about the twisting leaves.

as u can see, they are moving along, but it appears the damage is permanent.
let this serve as a warning to the strength of Liq. Lite.

IMO, this should only be used after the 2nd solid week of veg.

so, lets do the math.:cool:
assuming a 6-8 week veg, you could apply between 12 to 25 times in a plants veg cycle alone.

we'll say 1 tbsp/15ml per application on a 'group'?
so, what is that? 180-325 ml roughly per grow of "X" number of plants???

and maybe 150-200 ml in veg?

i dunno, i just blazed, i think thats rite.

now, of course the next question would be is it needed that often?

your mileage may vary:smokin:

OK everybody. I don't have a lot of time right now, but I do have a raging headache. I just kinda skimmed the past few posts, and yes I will write up something less garbled as soon as I can. Thanks everybody for stopping by.

And stinky, I wasn't blaming you for anything. I completely understand.

ok, i am returning to add to this thread and the continuing discovery of Liquid Light.

there have been some strange occurances, which i am going to attribute to a combination of factors, one of which, i believe is the inherent strength of LL.

at first, i wasnt sure, but i am now fairly sure that I have a bleaching effect that was caused by LL, BUT only on one strain.

please observe these pics.

there are a total 4 plants in the veg bunker who have all shared the same exact age and conditions- soil, water, lite, air, nutes, LL.
3 blue russians
1 blueberry-or-mango kush




wait, i have more pics and details, i will need 2 or 3 posts.......

to continue,,,

age end of week 4 veg

i started LL back in week 2 and early 3.
1 BR had a slight bleaching late week 3.

the BB-or-MngK has no bleaching, which i find odd, unless its some hearty trait of the strain?

i used the LL again early this week, and now all the new-young sprouts are bleached this bright green color.

they have plenty of strength and texture, but this flourescent color.:wtf:

now, there is one other weird possibility.
i may have had it mixed n sitting too long???


ok, one more post, 2 group shots n a few more comments,......

ok, a few last thoughts n observations.

the first time the bleaching occured, it did actually seem to 'heal' and green-up again mostly, after the bleaching, which i understand doesnt usually happen< we'll see on this.

also, its very possible that for 'sprouts' as they may be somewhat fragile when young, cannot all take the strength of this stuff.
I used it near directions-strength.
i also used the penetrator, and just regular water to thin it per instructions.

ok, discuss,,,,:pimp: