'Redline's LED - DiY - Build' aka"GROW LIGHT"

There may not be a need to rotate or move light if you can get the proper light placement. My latest design lets you easily manually move the light in 1/2 inch increments in an x/y axis and rotate each module about 180 degrees in the same plane.
Each module can also be set up to rotate in the z plane to get the correct angle.

The frame is 2' x 2.5 ' for a 5 square foot area. I will use a 24 volt 180 watt led driver on each frame. I am aiming for 30 to 35 watts per square foot.
I will use 12 modules in the frame in a 3x4 grid. Each module will be in the 12 to 14 watt range and have a quick disconnect plug into the grid framework (Lets call it the motherboard) wiring. Using K2 reds,royal blue and whatever else I have laying around. I may integrate some LED engin 660nms into some of the modules or I may use them (about 40 to 50 watts) as "Boost Lighting" during the last 4 weeks. I am keeping my options open. By using the module concept with only a few LEDs on each heatsink. I can easily subsitute each module for one with a different color ratio mix.

The heat sinks (available through a shop on EBAy at a very good price) are big enough that I do not need to use a fan on top of each. I am going to try cooling the area above the heat sinks with a ducted air current that will also help to get rid of smell. If need be, I will have the flexibility to mount fans on each module.

I am going to start building the frame next week and will post pictures and details.
If anyone wants to get started on one, I will answer any questions.

I have kept construction simple, all materials are available from OSH or HD.
You will need basic tools: A cheapy drill press, but a hand drill will get you by,
hacksaw and taps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Projman

Actually, how cold you possibly rotate with a power cable attached... Maybe that's a poor thought.

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Ain't no cable onna plant.
So, who you gonna spin?
Just set the girl onna Roomba, then confuse it.:D


Weetard

I don't think there is a great need to move the lights.
The major benefit with light movers is for HIDs and I don't see too much benefit for LEDs.
1. you got a single point of light which needs to be moved to get an even coverage. With LEDs you just spread them out instead. And get the colors arranged so that the plants get their share of each wavelength. BH seems to address this by throwing the kitchen sink at them and using warm whites that cover a very wide range.

2. You can get the HPS much closer to the plant since you won't have the heat buildup. No problemo with LEDs since they can almost touch the plant.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by redline

There may not be a need to rotate or move light if you can get the proper light placement. My latest design lets you easily manually move the light in 1/2 inch increments in an x/y axis and rotate each module about 180 degrees in the same plane.
Each module can also be set up to rotate in the z plane to get the correct angle.

The frame is 2' x 2.5 ' for a 5 square foot area. I will use a 24 volt 180 watt led driver on each frame. I am aiming for 30 to 35 watts per square foot.
I will use 12 modules in the frame in a 3x4 grid. Each module will be in the 12 to 14 watt range and have a quick disconnect plug into the grid framework (Lets call it the motherboard) wiring. Using K2 reds,royal blue and whatever else I have laying around. I may integrate some LED engin 660nms into some of the modules or I may use them (about 40 to 50 watts) as "Boost Lighting" during the last 4 weeks. I am keeping my options open. By using the module concept with only a few LEDs on each heatsink. I can easily subsitute each module for one with a different color ratio mix.

Brilliant!

The heat sinks (available through a shop on EBAy at a very good price) are big enough that I do not need to use a fan on top of each. I am going to try cooling the area above the heat sinks with a ducted air current that will also help to get rid of smell. If need be, I will have the flexibility to mount fans on each module.

I am going to start building the frame next week and will post pictures and details.
If anyone wants to get started on one, I will answer any questions.

I have kept construction simple, all materials are available from OSH or HD.
You will need basic tools: A cheapy drill press, but a hand drill will get you by,
hacksaw and taps.

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Wow! You are really thorough.

I usually just "redneck it up" with spit and duct tape.

My first 14 Watt panel was stuffed with 12 degree 10mm. LEDs
The narrow beam angle made red and blue spots until the panel was 18" from the tops of the tomatoes.:)

Bought a Graco "baby swing" at a garage sale.
Removed the "motor", hung it from the ceiling and used it to swing the light to and fro.
Neat little bugger, ran 18 hours a day for weeks on two D cells .
Just provides a "kick" that keeps the panel swinging.
But the tick, tick was keeping me awake.
That, and cheap duct tape gets crappy when the temerature hits 90F.

'bout time I built sumpin' I can be proud of.
I no gotta be brilliant.
Just gotta stay bright enough to recognize good ideas when I read 'em.
I'm gonna be haunting this thread and pickin' your brain if ya don't mind.

"Give people a light, and they will follow it anywhere" -F.T.:D

Mahalo nui,
Weezard

I'm kind of the same way, I come from a long line of rednecks.
I figure things out as I go along. I really like to recycle junk that I can put to good use, but in this case I had to bite the bullet and buy everything new in order to meet design parameters.

I just wasn't completely happy with the brick units I built so I am looking to move on to the next stage of progress. I hope it pans out. I got a crap load of money going into it. Almost as much as a Procycn. I am making it easily upgradable so I can plug in new LEDs as they hit the market.

I like the baby swing idea.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by redline

The frame is 2' x 2.5 ' for a 5 square foot area.

I am going to start building the frame next week and will post pictures and details.
If anyone wants to get started on one, I will answer any questions.

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I have my hand way in the air! That sounds like exactly what I need for my ScrOG. Man oh man.

Ok here we go with the materials. I will have to give it in segments as I think of things.
Please be patient since I am really having to squeeze to find time for this. As I recall you were looking for a 10 foot area, so you would need to build 2 or them. I would suggest starting with one and see how that works for you.

By the way, in addition to the basic metal working tools, you will need a digital multimeter and a basic understanding of electricity and Ohms law. You will also need a temperature controlled soldering station, preferably digital.

1. Main Power Supply. I am using a commercial 24 volt 180 watt LED driver to power the entire frame. I can supply circuit design if you want to go with something else like a 12 volt supply. At the risk of being blackballed from this forum, I am going to pimp out some of my extra power supplies. I had to buy a large quantity of them to get a good price, so got a bunch of extras. $40 for the 120v units. I also got four 220 volt units, for $20 each and whatever shipping runs. I think I posted a picture of them earlier in this string.

2. Secondary power supply, some kind of 12 volt unit at least 2 amps, or you can use several smaller current units.Even a big wall wart will work. Not really critical since it will be used to power fans and illuminate some digital volt and amp panel meters which will be used for monitoring.

2. Heat sinks. I got them from a guy on Ebay. I buy a whole slab and he will cut them to size. Really good price. I have posted links several times on both strings. The slab will cost you a little over $100 bucks with shipping and you will have enough for two frames. The size is 4 1/8" measured across the fins and 4" in the direction of the fins.
You got 120 square inches of cooling surface or enough to cool 12 watts without any airflow, so we will have to get something going to get them cooled down. I am going to start engineering the cooling system towards the middle and end of the project. Worst case, I can strap a computer fan on the top of each module.

3. A crap load of K2 emitters (from Future Electronics). Let's say 60 percent red, 20 percent royal blues, 10 percent cool white, 10 percent warm white. But feel free to use whatever you think is going to work. You will be using between 8 or 11 of them per board. I will work up some different combos, but your guess is as good as mine.
Might as well pick up a handful of 5 watt 660nms also (Mouser) if you are feeling expansive and got a few bucks to blow.
Holler at me before you order the LEDs and I will make sure you are getting the right bins. I go with the highest ones available.

4. Artic Alumina or Artic Silver Adhesive.

List to be continued in next post.

Very Good. Thank you. My grow is 2x2 or 2x3 so 1 unit will work just fine.

List continued:
5. Digital Panel meters. You can get these cheap on EBay from a large distributer in China. You need a 200 dc meter, a 20 amp meter and one or two of the 3 amp meter.

6. 12 Cinch-Jones male and female plugs. The female are panel mount, the male are cable mount.

That should take care of all the goodies needed to construct the modules. Let me know if any help is needed sourcing the items.

I will post pictures and details of the metal needed for the mainframe construction. You can pick that stuff up locally.

A couple of nice items to have if you think you are going to be playing around with LEDs are a variable voltage/current adjustable power supply with a digital readout... about $160. And an infrared remote thermometer... $60 to $150.



Projman....Are you still with us?