I've never had to do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Pimp
Vertical T5HO to the rescue!
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I've never had to do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Pimp
Vertical T5HO to the rescue!
where's the beef?Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
How big is the area? How many watts each? How did you secure the middle tubes from any kind of accident? Isn't it easy and safer to set PLL's like that? Plus they don't have much different outputs than T5's. They're shorter, and only needs to hanged from one side. If we go deep into that i'll find more reasons to not use T5. So I'll just keep comparising.Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
This "two pin CFL" i meant PLL's. I made a price and some other information research.Quote:
Originally Posted by tevfik
So here we go:
RA 80-90 bulbs (8xx) :
18,24 and 36w bulbs are $6.20
40 and 55w bulbs are $7.70
12000h lifetime (3 years in our comparison)
RA 90+ bulbs (9xx) 7500h lifetime:
18,24 and 36w bulbs are $11.80
40 and 55w bulbs are $13.60
7500h lifetime (2 years in our comparison)
I'll need one ballast for each two bulbs.
from 18 to 55w ballasts are $29.20
Life of 100,000 hours and more (22 years in our comparison.)
i'm buying 2x55 and 2x40 = $58.40 + $30.80 (+ $20 if i want 9xx's)
That will make 190w, and give the lights equally if i put 55's on center and 40's on sides. This is another advantage.
16600lm in total. Reached 3860lm per square meter.
Or we can go 100w of PLL and 100w of Fluora. That makes more sense to me than paying a half thousand on a tunnel light and hanging cfl's around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roughrider
[attachment=o260617] [attachment=o260618] [attachment=o260620][attachment=o260621]
Still, tell me, what makes this "inda-Bro" lights %96 useful for plants? Is it because all those light companies didn't know how to make plant lamps and they were messing around with all their sources to produce some grow fluorescent called gro or bio or natura then some genius engineers suddenly found that they were wrong???
Hi Bubbas,Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbas
We live in the same area and have spoken on the phone twice about your lights. At the time you did not have anything less than 400w, so I ordered from another company.
Your thread inspired me to build cabinets & start a 250w vs. 120w comparison. It is about half way through flower. Grow log is here: http://boards.cannabis.com/grow-log/...omparison.html. There's so much hype out there, but so little useful results, that I decided I had to discover for myself what the REAL facts were.
If you are serious about an honest, head-to-head, documented comparison, then I believe I'm the best candidate to do it, because:
1) no expense or worries about shipping to a guy without meeting him
2) My cabinets are specifically designed for exactly the kind of testing you want done.
3) I'm proving my ability to complete a grow log with objectivity.
4) if you want, i'll return your hardware after the test.
In lighting we refer to it as a particular lamps efficacy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by seventhchild
"watts is watts its true but ya'll need to understand that this is a measure of energy used not of light output."
No, in fact we do radiometric wattage output readings as well - that is how we determine the actual efficiency of the diode.
An LED spec sheet will typically show the power output of a 460nm or lower diode in terms of milliwatts, not lumens.
Hi Vanduction,Quote:
Originally Posted by vanduction
Give me a call. i can set something up. My chosen test subject on 420 has gone MIA i'll give him a few weeks to contact me again. However i have some new 2100K EFDL's that just arrived. so we can do a test with them instead. Send me a private message and we'll exchange contacts or just call me i guess you already have my number
Bumping this thread back to the top. This thread has been all talk no journals lol.
Bubbas, who is the candidate and where is the link to their grow (or links to any grow!!!)
Here is a grow journal using 250w HPS vs. 120w induction + 24w CFL: http://boards.cannabis.com/grow-log/...omparison.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by 123xyz
Bubbas promised to lend me an induction light but hasn't delivered.
If any other manufacturer wants to step up with a sample to be tested head-to-head, let me know. (I believe a 400w HPS vs. 200w Induction would be best)
great post. Looks like induction is just not quite there yetQuote:
Originally Posted by vanduction
It's not going to be there for a LONG time.Quote:
Originally Posted by squarepush3r
I just finished a MUCH improved version of an induction lamp, co-designed with a Siemens engineer.
Higher outputs than T8, less output versus a T5, given equal power consumption.
Just isn't going to happen until the things I specified are possible - waveguides in the glass tube, better diamagnetic materials to keep the EM contained within the area of the bulb.
Have a picture of my new induction lamp - good for veg, garbage for flowering.
I have 4 , 300 watt induction lights, they work great for clones and veggen. I have pics posted and can post more :)
Yep, they're fine for cloning and vegging. They lack the photon flux density to work out well for fruiting and flowering. I was testing a 200w induction lamp, and the PPFD meter I use never topped out, even right against the glass.Quote:
Originally Posted by jscruggs420
Hello Everyone
I got some nice pictures of pepper growing under bispectrum induction lights. Lamps are great, even 50 Watters. Want to tell -it is wrong that 200W bispectrum can't give 2000 umols-s-m. It gives me 2000 umols-s-m in 10 cm from the bulb.
Compare to CFL
I have picture of plant, one part of it grows under cfl and other part under bi-colour. It is way different. Size, fruits and flowers you will see only under bisectrum light. Even PAR are exactly the same.
About preferences -2700/6500K versus bispectrum.
For me still unclear how come people tell us, that 2700K is better then bispectrum in flouring. If you look at emission specter for 2700K - you will not see anything after 650nm. Bispectrum has peak after 650nm. That is just unclear for me, I'm not telling this is wrong.
To be fair this lamp did produce better grams per watt! I suspect it could outproduce HPS if the system was better designed!Quote:
Originally Posted by squarepush3r
Bubbas says his shades can make a huge difference in induction lamp performance, unfortunately he didn't give me a unit to test so we didn't get the chance to find out!
When you have a production-model 150w/200w/250w/300w, let's talk!Quote:
Originally Posted by donglai
Hi there,Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Well firstly we have 50w/200w/300w/400w models atm. Secondly the phosphor blend you are talking about was the bug from our first version of our mland induction lamp in 2009, last year was 2010. We are planning to develop a new 500w one due to the good feedbacks we've been having and clients asking for a higher walttage induction grow light.
The phosphor blend I'm talking about wasn't even made in my laboratory until October 2010, so that wouldn't have been my formula in use back in 2009.Quote:
Originally Posted by donglai
Well are you sure you got it from us directly? If you could send me a PM with ur details i might be able to track your order and even replace your lamp for free. As i recall, by last year October 2010 we already had the new version which didnt have the phospor blend bug that made the light spectrum not reach the advertised spectrum distribution. I am saying this because some lights bought from ebay or our north american distributors are old stock from them that couldnt be sold.Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Anyways the point is that the phospor blend bug has been removed and even our waterproof housing fixture is being removed from the 400w series due to the concerns that the Kelving temperature reached after a long period of activity of the lighting system.
You should stick with the IP67 specification. One of the good uses for the induction lamp was for keeping outdoor sports fields green. What I would suggest doing is making a new heat sink on the top of the unit and directly affixing the unit to that.Quote:
Originally Posted by donglai
I never purchased any lamps from your company, I sent off an e-mail to the company with a new phosphor blend that I was giving out for free because I wanted to see induction lighting gain a better edge versus fluorescents.
I have to say, however, that the lights still lack overall in photon flux emissions. If only you could make those tubes of a smaller diameter, and perhaps increase the tube pressure or harvest the mercury emission lines better. Maybe redo the entire tube and use aluminosilicate instead of borosilicate glass?
Wow i must say i am impressed with how much you know about lighting systems i need someone like you to work with me xD. Anyways im taking notes of the suggestions ure making but i must ask the engineers on this matter as i am a noob in technicalities and thats why i came to this forum, to learn and expand my knowledge so that i can use it to improve our services but i must say that the feedbacks from experienced growers until now, has been quite pleassing and no complains have been made on our new version, however there´s always space for improvement and reaching the full potential of this technology is my ultimate aim.Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Well i did some research of my own on the glass materials "Aluminosilicate glass has aluminum oxide in its composition. It is similar to borosilicate glass but it has greater chemical durability and can withstand higher operating temperatures. Compared to borosilicate, aluminosilicates are more difficult to fabricate. When coated with an electrically conductive film, aluminosilicate glass is used as resistors for electronic circuitry" Why and how that is worse than the borosilicate glass and its effects on the photon flux emissions? xD i need some insight on this.
I tried to PM you but i couldnt as i am quite new to this forum..i also added you on msn to further discuss your suggestions as i am working with a manufacturer of induction lights and LED lilghts and we can customized the lamps to the smallest detail so before i suggest to do some changes to the R+D dep i need some proof that this is what the customers are needing and what is best for the product itself as not only photon flux emissions count but durability of the materials are needed to be accounted too as one of the key advantages of induction lighting is the long lifespan they have.
Concerning the new housing fixtures we basically replaced the IP67 housing lighting fixture because we thought who will need a waterproof housing if it's mainly going to be used indoor..for outdoor purposes we have induction spotlights,street lights, etc and plus due to the glass housing fixture the kelvin temperatures rise by 25% in the long run and this has been one of our client's concerns so that's why we planning to changing it and i believe this would have an impact on the PAR values but i am not sure as i need someone to come up with a journal so i can get those values as i cant do the experiments myself in China due to the high risks involved..but hopefully once i am back in Spain or the UK i will try them out in my own growop and post them here xD.
Dude ur knowledge on material and lighting systems is limitless if by any chance ur jobless (which i doubt it) come to China there´s a high demand for ppl like u and a good business opportunity if u decide to work with us xD. Anyways, i added u on msn i we will be in contact and thanks to the forum for giving me this opportunity.
Also i am meeting next month with the R+D department and i will suggest all these points u mentioned. They should be really usefull specially in the development of the 500W and 600W induction that they are working at atm. So we will talk via msn and obviously your advices wont be rewardless xD. No more talking through forums as i already found my purpose here; you!
Peace
Hey man i tried to contact you without any success...the ecogroled account it has to have a domain ending either hotmail.com or something cause i cant seem to find u xd. Anyways i am meeting the technicians at the factory next week and i will comment them your advices and give u some feedback on it. Please contact me somehow i will greatly appreciated.
I will be one more week in Shanghai before going back to Spain were we are planning to open up a distribution network over there to supply Europe. Anyways i hope i hear from you soon!
So whats the verdict on these? Have they been updated and where to buy?
I see that Mland is still "selling" lamps. Now under a new affiliation. Don´t trust donglai for one second about getting light-fixtures for reduced prices. They sure have sold some working lamps to build trust but the vast majority of deals are scams.
These guys at Mland are crooks. I ordered and paid for a lamp at Mland and received a box of junk (no lamp at all). Mland company stressed the fact that FedEx had mixed up the parcels so I reported it as a delivery failure.
To my big surprise FedEx took responsibility for the faulty goods(!) and agreed to pay out for worth of lamp and cost of shipping, though not to me but to Mland.
The contact between me and Benjason Zhang at Mland was consistent with swift replies until FedEx reimbursed them. I I haven't heard a word from them since.
Mland told me that FedEx will reimburse me, not them, which was untrue as FedEx gave me the name of the guy at Mland who had signed for the repayment.
I do not know how they manage to confuse FedEx, this is not just a case of frauding the customer (me) but also the freight company. In retrospect all this seems well planned.
As someone pointed out, if they ship, they ship badly boxed goods that turn up broken and in that case gets returned to them and my guess is that it won't be fixed or replaced/reimbursed.
Do not go into business with Mland or anyone claiming to have anything to do with them.
Even if you or your friend get a working lamp delivered to you (highly unlikely), they will try to pull a scam when the stakes are higher et.c.
Conclusion: Not an honest company.
It's 2012 and MH/HPS is still the way to go. LEDs have not shown me anything yet, either.
Yeah I have to agree. I have 2x 150w LEDs (commercial). They run just fine for vegging and at considerably lower costs/heat. However, the initial investment in LED hardware makes this an unattractive option, both for the hobby (me) and commercial grower. Sure the light may pay for itself over a few years time but most growers do not operate with this kind of amortization timeline... I do love the LEDs for my 2'x5'x3.5' cab. Temps are right and the gals love them. They veg great although they don't clone for sh1t. I use a CFL for that. But for flower? No. HPS way outperforms them. Now if you build your own using high end hardware, that's a different story.
great for newbies.
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/...16-jpg.223024/
Are these induction lights 400W or above?Quote:
Originally Posted by Deesnut's
I saw an ad in High Times for an Induction Grow Light from a company called "inda-gro"
VERY curious about these lamps!
Am currently building a grow facility in a sea container, lighting to be led and or induction. I am very interested in a working relationship with a mfg or supplier have an immediate need 3- 10 kw of induction lighting. Please contact me.
John
room has 3 300watt 2700K and 2 300watt 6500K bulbsQuote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Hui
How much are these and where do I get one? Thanks :thumbsup: