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I talked to Ledengine the other day. Just so everyone knows, the new 10w chips are the same as the old 15w chips. They are just advertised as 10w because they are driven at 700mA. They said that the chip in all of their Leds is the same, just mounted to a different base, or put in as multi-chip Leds.Quote:
Originally Posted by Weezard
When you guys purchased the 15w emitters, what was the forward current advertised. My guess is that it was 1A. Am I right?
Wait a minute, I guess they would be 1.5A? Is that right? They don't even advertise them anywhere anymore, so I have no way of finding out except through someone who has used them before. Electricity has always found a way to confuse the shit out of me.Quote:
Originally Posted by warrior #113
I've even been zapped a few times by 30 Amps! Only because the guy who was supposed to be the teacher running the glass blowing class would not spend any money on getting new parts for broken equipment. My blow pipe would hit the elements in the annealer because they stuck so far out into the heating chamber. That place was a joke.
1.5A. is Imax
I run mine at ~1.1A. and about 10.8V. at full output.
Aloha,
Weeze
im currently using 400w hps dual spectrum. it works awesome but wondered what wattage for led say a blackstar is recommended for 2 plants?
About 200Watts of decent leds will replace a 400W HPS
Hello Mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by Weezard
Could you expand on the two above points please? Thanks.d
I suppose.
Been trying to grow Gainesville green indoors.
Was having no luck. Seems like she hated CFLs and LEDs.
Did grow a bit under HPS so I had a think.
Attachment 289575
It's a clue.
Mo' red, less blue.
Woohoo!
Had her under a 7:3 veg panel
She perked right up when i put her under my 4:1 bloom panel.
When the sun hits the atmosphere from an angle, more blue light gets scattered and the result is a red shift.
Plants that have adapted to that red shift seem to get confused by a blue shift.
Still futzing about with it and would appreciate any input.
Aloha,
Weezard
[quote=Weezard]
Mo' red, less blue.
Woohoo![QUOTE]
hmm makes sense. both of my lights seemed a lil slack on blue to red ratio.....that explains it tho. from what ive been reading photosynthesis uses red for one part of the process possibly for breaking things down and blue for the conversion. there was no conclusive info in what i was reading about that tho. i am a little disconcerted at how intolerant and less adaptable herb has become, compared to what was once as i remember it very tolerant and very adaptable. i have grown it in muddy, swampy, dry and dusty. my brother used toss seeds over into his back seat of his eldorado all the time. the rear window was a split window and leaked so that in heavy rain hed have a forest growing in that nasty moldy carpet. now it seems like its become some sort hothouse orchid. fussy, pissy about soil, ph, nutes.... i never used to use them except at the end. what has all this basement breeding done.....well ok i do like the funky strains.....but anyone breeding try to toss some the adaptability back in will ya?
Great info. Im doing my reading on LEDs and you've been a valuable resource.Quote:
Originally Posted by Weezard
A few thoughts..
Most of the classic sativas are based near the equator (Columbia, Thailand, Malawi are a few examples I can think of) where red shift would be at a relative minimum vs. a classic indica from Afghanistan where shallower sun angles would enhance the effect..
A quick googling of gainsville green says Thai x Hawaiian.. not sure if true, but interestingly, both locations are at the same latitude.
I'm ordering my LED lights from china, desided to get two Apollo20, my chinise supplyer recomends this combination: white/660nm/630nm/460nm/610nm/410nm=1:4:3:4:1:2. He said that he has hundreds of customers who sucsesfuly grow with this combination indoors. Dear Weezard, should I go with his suggestions? maybe you can recommend something better. Thanks