Simple nOOb instructions for growin' da dankness

Stinky,HYWHT'SUP??!!

This TRICH is for you:pimp::pimp::pimp:

All right! Hatch, one of our resident Southern Gentlemen, comin' through with da macros!!!
I'm going to use these above pics ^^^ to illustrate the ripeness test.
You guys can DEFINITELY see the trichomes in the last picture. Look at how each one is like a perfect droplet of dew on a little glass stem. When your plants are ready to harvest, the clear appearance they have in that picture goes away and first gets CLOUDY or MILKY, and then some of them will turn AMBER. When all are milky and some are amber (10% or more depending upon how much you want to be stuck to the sofa), you can chop.
The pic #2 shows the pistils, or HAIRS, that start turning brown well before harvest.

hey hows it going? i was reading you forums and seen the part about seeding in soil i was just wondering if you knew of any ways to tell if your plants are male or female while still in a vegg state. (for mothers) any info would help thanks :)

heavy...you may start to get some pre flowers a week or two before onset...but its hard to tell the differance at that stage.....
hawaii....LEDs draw VERY little power;)
:smokebong:
whiskeytango

hey stinky umm im just starting my first grow only grow 4 plants after sexing (unless i dont get that many females) at the moment i am planning on having a grow box about 4ft by 3 ft by 5 ft tall using a 600 hps maby 800 what do you think?

also umm what kind of a yield could i expect off this kinda setup i only realy need to tide me and my friend over

any help would be massivly appreciated cheers:)

My oh my, this seems like a lot for a beginner trying to grow with parents that would not want it. Good guide for when I get older though. I'll have to improvise until then...:(

So....now the questions is... what is the average time between clear, cloudy, amber, and.... ??

Good question, Steve!
I would say that about two weeks elapse bewteen when I start seeing the first color change to when I like to harvest. It will depend on a few factors though, so give yourself a window when you will be able to check on the plants' progress every day or 2 approaching your anticipated harvest time.

Stinky i have a simple question that's sooo simple i have no idea how to find the bloody answer...

I put my plants onto 12/12 2 days ago,they were eating CHEMPAK No2 HNF 25+15+15 and they thrived but now (after hours of searching) i'd like to know what you'd advise me to move them onto for the Flowering stage...I was thinking of using the CHEMPAK No4 which is 15+15+30 and realy after all this waffling would like to hear what you'd use..Edit:Use as in ?+?+? (Is is called the NPK table ? Nitrogen/Phosphate/Potash)

Thanks in advance..

Okay. The VEG fert has a lot of N, the first number, because plants growing lots of shoots and leaves need plenty of Nitrogen compared to other components. They still need Phosphorous (P, second number) for healthy roots and Potassium (K, last number) for a strong immune system.
When you switch to flower, you want to suppress the plant's ability to make lots of leaves and chlorophyll, and so you cut the N number down by at least half. If you start with a veg fert that has N=10, go to a flower fert with N=5 or less. Then give them extra P and K, whcih they need for sexual reproduction.
Your proposed bloom fert would have a little too much N, proportionally, and not enough P. Is there another one available with a higher MIDDLE number?