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See, the roots are not slimy and they do not break away dead. Which is why I'm even bothering to ask wether that IS root rot, because if they were simy and if they did die away, I wouldn't even ask :)
If it is root-rot, I know why it's there (temps). But it doesn't seem characteristic of the rot.
I also desperately want to know by tomorrow what to get at home depot for the cooltube setup. I need to know the name of the ceramic socket that the bulb screws into, mainly. What would I ask the Home Depot geek for? And do they differ in size for HPS, MH and Mercury Vapor? Every time I go to this Home Depot, they're always suspicious. And it's not like I go in there blazed or wearing '420' patches or anything. i.e., I don't swerve in there lettin' my freak flag fly. So I don't want to ask anything like "How do I get a 400 watt HPS bulb into a cooltube with the stuff you have here?" - I want to ask for specific parts. Names of brackets, sizes, etc. I already have a 4" inline duct fan from there from a while back. And I know I need flexible 4" duct tubing, 4" metal sleeve for the cooltube... but what else? And do I need special drill bits to drill through the metal sleeve for the bracket placement?
And especially, what is the name of the bulb socket assembly?
Mark..
i really hope you are right..
I am looking closely at your pictures..
they look slimy.. LOL the rots dont look correct.
:)
marx2k, do a search on this website, zandor and mellowyellow both posted detailed pictures and explanations on how to make a cool tube.
Ok first the roots.....Smell them if it does not stink then it's not rot. From what you are saying then you are correct about it being colored by the nutrients. You can add some H²O² (proxide) to your water 5-10 ml per gallon with each water change. That will bring back the white for you.
As for the cool tube.....You will need a MOG socket (they don't sell them at HD) but most hydro stores or electrical wholesalers do. ) They make cash sales over the counter. Good place to get bulbs too btw.
From HD you get:
2 4" vent metal collars
2 4" hose clamps
1 Roll of window foam weather seal tape (thin)
1 4? angle bracket
1 roll of metal silver foil tape
Either pop rivets or small nuts & bolts to assemble.
(x)ft of 12 gage 3 wire extension cord
That will make one unit.
From what I see of the roots, that is discoloration caused by the calmag+. The roots themselves look healthy above and below the parts that are tinted brown, however, keep an eye on them, you've got all the right conditions for root rot so you should avoid that at all costs.
Additionally, Zandor is probably the best qualified to give advice. I would recommend you listen to him more than the rest of us :)
GM
calmag has never colored my roots that I have noticed. Micro does and bloom enhancers do for sure. But then again I do use H²O² as a normal additive a few times a week and that's why maybe I don't notice calmag changes the color of the roots. But by checking for smell that's the best way to know if it's a problem or not.
Yeah, I noticed after I started adding calmag that I was getting the brown tint that I didn't get before. I assumed it was the calmag, but without actually testing this theory, I can't be absolutely positive that it's not the micro. I did notice that there is some "blobs" of discoloration that I don't recognize. Mine were just tinted, didn't show any signs of "blobs"
Either case, the brown tint doesn't look quite like root rot. I've seen root rot many times and it appears to cover most of the lower portion of the root system and appears more mucky/slimey than these roots.
I'm probably doing more harm than good from this point on. I could have him chasing a wild goose with my hydro experience. I'll leave this to the pro's to chime in on.
GM
Ok Marx2k I made a FAQ on a DIY Cool Tube. If you have questions please start a new thread.
definitely not; I use calmag+ and I have never had a more stable rez...In fact, I believe it is the stability of the minerals replenished by calmag+ that gives me this stability. lw:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Seekins