Crazywill...are you effin' serious!?!?!?! That pic looks like a furry ass pineapple!!! what strain is that? incredible.
skeet
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Crazywill...are you effin' serious!?!?!?! That pic looks like a furry ass pineapple!!! what strain is that? incredible.
skeet
Whats up Weedhound I know this thread is bout as old as the hills but hopefully you might see it! Im having pretty much the same problem but unfortunately my PH hasnt stablized yet! I was reading over this thread while lookin for answers and noticed the underlined statement you made about using a flushing agent when doing weekly/biweekly flushes. I actually did use Clearex when I flushed during my res change from week 4 to 5, can you tell me how this might be affecting my PH?Quote:
Originally Posted by Weedhound
My initial problem was that my PPMs were rising and this had me stumped until I realized that PH down does influence your PPMs. I wouldve realized this earlier but like usual there's alot of bad info on some of these forums
and alot of posts claiming that PH adjusters dont influence PPMs and Ive been a long time dirt farmer and this is my first time coming over to the wet side so obviously Im a little new to hydro! At first me and a buddy that owns a hydro shop thought the PPM rise might be due to the Clearex I flushed with causing the medium to reject the uptake of nutes, thus causing my plants to only uptake water, leaving the nutes behind to raise the PPMs.
ANYWAY I realized the PPMs were rising because of the PH down I was adding which led me to realize that my PH rising too quickly and having to adjust is whats causing such a drastic increase in PPM! So whats causing this drastic increase in PH?
Im using a 2x4 E&F table w/conditioned RW cubes.
27 gal res w/20 gal of water, w/a small pump to circulate water and an airstone w/sponge around it to give the bene's a place to colonize. The res does have a lid so no evaporation.
Im using the entire Advanced Connoiseur Line plus Rhino Skin and Bud Factor X and following the light feeding schedule fairly close. I stopped adding beneficials after wk 2.
My PH after adding nutes is always right at 5.9 but within a day or so it usually goes up by a point or more.
Im in week 4 of flowering, week 5 starts on Tuesday. My PPMs are peaking over these 2 weeks at about 1300 but w/the addition of PH down to keep the PH in range Im up to 1900 PPMs! Since dif nutes are absorbed at dif PH levels I let my PH fluctuate between 5.5 and 7, sometimes 7.5 if Ive already added alot of PH down that week.
Im hopin you come across this, and would really appreciate any help you could give. If there's any additional info needed to help with diagnosis just lemme know.
PS Sorry for "thread jacking" but I dont see any way to PM on this site and since its been inactive for so long hopefully nobody will mind!
CHIEF
I think I had the same thing you are talking about... found it was a cyanobacteria posing as an algae. raised the ph in hours!! tried peroxide, dm zone, aquashield, daily change outs... etc. only thing I found that worked were beneficials. that bacteria doesn't need light and loves oxygen. physan 20 kills it, and was the only thing I could clean with once I got the slime. bleach did nothing. if you do have this bacteria, then I found that sterilizing with physan 20 kills it off, and beneficials (earth worm compost tea, Great White, etc) will keep it from coming back. the slime can't compete with the beneficials once they are established. Hygrozyme, carbs, molasses, etc will all feed the slime so don't use them. The trick to keep the slime away is to add the beneficials to the rez every three days... but not to feed them. if you provide an excess of food for the beneficials, then the slime bacteria will have enough food to prosper. make EWC tea and save it in the fridge for 7-10 days (after that it's unusable). Add the tea every three days to the rez to keep the slime at bay. you will see your ph stabilize. I currently use Great White because I can just add it without brewing the tea... but it's more expensive.
there was a shortage of cannabis in Europe in 2007 because of this bacteria. I now have a vendetta against this stuff, and would be happy to assist you in anyway if the problem reoccurs.
it is commonly misdiagnosed as root rot, but this is because it CAUSES root rot by asphixiating (sp?) roots.
after reading your post a second time... I think you should continue adding the beneficials on a regular schedule and don't feed them in the reservoir. I found that less-than-complete beneficials don't work against this stuff, and neither does cleaning with anything other than Physan 20. You can run 1-2 ml Physan in 30 gal rez for 24 hours to kill the bacteria. Watch the plants closely though once the Physan goes in because just a little too much kills them, and not enough doesn't kill the bacteria. Change out your water... don't add beneficials and run the Physan 20. I also removed the plants and soaked them in a solution while cleaning the rez with Physan, and that worked too. Make sure the physan is completely out of the system or the bene's will not live.
The bacteria will cause your ppms to rise btw.
Hope this is of some use... oh and UV light kills the bacteria too.
Sorry Weedhound has past away on the 13 of jan. She will be sorely missed.Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefgreenleaf
http://boards.cannabis.com/hydroponi...ight=weedHound
caregiver99 has some excelent info. I think I have been battling this slime. It has twisted my mind trying to figure it out. Everything looks pretty good till a few weeks into flower and then the slime. They don't die they just don't do very well in the finish. I even went to all new containers and it came back.
None of this happened untill I got clones from a unclean source. I mean the guy gave me thrips and redspotted spidermites from hell and now the slime from hell. Time to look for the physan and stop using the hygrozyme and get some bene's.
I have a inteliDose Computerize system my Ph can be Controlled to .0 as I have nutrient controll as well. When I Change nutrients (weekly) 25 gallon res with 8-2 gallons hydroton over 2 gallon deep wells. So total of 40 gallons nuts. Recirulating $$$$$
I pump nuts from res to drip over hydroton on 15 minutes off 15 minutes..... Good Temp contrroll have 2 chillers on res ... PH is adjusted on day one PH is stable thru day 2 (very little auto dosing (ph rises ) by day 3 system is dosing every 15 minutes 1.5 oz GH ph down mixed 20 to 1. By day 5 system is autodosing PH the other way (seldom) than day 6-7 pretty stable again....
OH yea! use RO water
Doses like this weather the plants are seedings or honkers (So must be chemistry ,, Right ? ) My plants are so healthy!
Now I have grown a lot I know a few thing let your PH float up to 6.0 than bring It back to 5.5 what ever you think works for you I have grown with exact PH controll and the float PH way Plant really dosn't care AS LONG AS YOU KEEP IT BETWEEN SAFE LEVELS !! IF you don't your paying for nutrients that are not going to uptake...If you let it float you will use less GH PH up down over all
@5.6 to 5.8 almost all nuts are NOT LOCkED OUT HYDRO ... 6.1PH I guess if you use mud .. <:((><
It is the Hygrozyme!!! I just recently started using this product and found my pH going down real bad. Took me a couple water changes to figure it out but I tested my pH everytime I added my nutes together, one test for each nute I added until I found the culprit, Hygrozyme! I don't use it anymore.
Hygrozyme? didn't hear of them before. any other humic acid organic fertilizer brand recommend? guys