a light question

I've thought about doing that too. Here are my thoughts...

1. If it's gonna be a simple design, I thought of twisting the inside piece of screen so that it forms a cone.
2. Then plug the small end with a good grade of silicone.
3. Repeat the above one more time starting with a much larger piece of screen to form an "outer cone".
4. This should (in theory) allow one to pour the carbon into the big end just prior to attaching the inlet flange.
5. Now, temporarily pin the inner cone so that it won't unravel.
6. Adjust it to be the same size as the inlet diameter on the flange, and pin it together permanently (a few safety pins should work).
7. Now it would be time to fit the outer cone around the inner cone in such a way that it would allow the gap between the two to be filled with the carbon.
8. Adjust the outer cone like ya did the inner cone with one exception. The outer cone should obviously be as large as possible while just barely allowing you to squeeze the flange onto it.
9. Now that you have a filter element with a flange on one end, attach a piece of pipe long enough to extend past the small end of the cone to the flange.
10. Attach the "outlet" flange to the piece of pipe and VIOLA'! You have an inline carbon scrubber!

This should do the trick quite nicely. The design is used in other industries to filter other compounds. In most of those that I've seen, sintered bronze was the filtering media used.

I think I follow most of that. Cool. Looking forward to seeing this come together. Pictures please. Needs to be a sticky or faq.

once again another amazing responce thanks so much guys, :jointsmile:
pro gro(think ya could drop the wannabe) your idea for an inline filter sounds sweet think my plan is something similar.
shopping list:
2 x 6"-4" reducers
6"pipe, 6" long
hexagon wire mesh
a pair of tights
1. cut circles in the wire mesh, following by cutting a radius line(from edge to center)
2. twist two sides of the cut over each other, forming into a cone (gaugeing the the depth of the cone to fit from the 6" flange back into the 4" flange, but not touching) and then when happy fix in shape with cable ties or tie wraps. make 2 of these allowing the to cone protrude past the 6" flange.
3. stand 1 of the reducers 4" end down, place 1 of the cones (point up) on top of the 6" flange with excess past the flange. this should now be covered with 1 leg of the tights. now force 6" pipe onto the 6" flange trapping the tights and the excess from the cone between.
4. on the other cone cut the tip off the cone so you have 1" diameter hole. now line the inside of the cone with the other leg of the tights with the toe protruding out past the hole you just cut in the top.
5. place this second cone down into the other reducer pulling the toe of the tights through the 4" flange. at the base of the cone put cuts in the mesh from the base to the flange and bend these tabs back over the flange then froce the flange onto the other end of the piece of 6" pipe again trapping the mesh and the tights. (these flanges can then be backed up with clips if needed)
6. now it can be filled with a funnel through a hole cut in the toe of the tights and when full and tapped down tie a knot in the tights and join the edges of the hole with cable ties

not sure if thats exactly what you described pro gro as... well..... ive had a few and to be honest i couldn't picture yours. but as soon as i'm putting mine together i'll post some pics and it'd be great if you could post some of yours cause different designs might suit different peoples needs.

peace out ppl

Well....to be honest, I haven't made mine yet. I DO plan on making it, though--lol. Thats why my above post said "my thoughts were..."

It would be cool if you did a build-a-long on yours. I'm not sure when I'll have time to build mine. It will be a while though.

And thanks for recommending that I drop the wannabe part, but until I am happy with my grows for a while, it'll have to stay as is. :)

I've been using these for 2 years and they are simply the best lights I have ever used, they give off so little heat , they cost less to run and the harvests I have had have been pretty damn good too. I love mine.


Lamp Envirolite â?¢Reflector
100cm long X 50 cm wide X 20cm deep

ya pro gro,time costs more than money eh, i'm workin 60hrs a week and tryin to renovate an apartment at the same time:( aint always easy but i'll try get that filter together this week and i'll post a few pics as soon as i can.
hey phsycocat cheers for postin but i've decided to go with hps but harbouring thoughts of buildin a smaller veg cab so might use 1 in there
peace out ppl

Hey, Psycho... How much have you been yielding with that setup? I love using 125 watt cfls from Farmtek. Yet, that looks like an interesting seutp.

would be really intrested to see yield sizes from them myself, but if i may just jump back to the previous topic of carbon scrubbers, as a filtration medium i was thinking of using lightly burned then crushed charcoal as this is almost pure carbon, right???????
any1 tried this or any opinions for or against, just going to light it up first to burn off any lighter fluid in it but apart from that im guessing it should be ok.

It WILL work, but it won't be as effective for as long of a time. Carbon actually adsorbs. It does not absorb. It works by trapping the odor particles in it's crystalline-like structure. The air can still go through but odor particles attached to the air molecules can't make it all the way through since their physically larger.

The whole industry got started in dry cleaning (as I understand it anyway). And at first it WAS activated charcoal. Once industry realized it wasn't the "charcoal", but rather the carbon structure that trapped odor molecules, they went to a purer carbon, and began to chemically treat it bringing about the "activation" technology.

Here's what wikipedia had to say:
Activated carbon, also called activated charcoal or activated coal, is a general term which covers carbon material mostly derived from charcoal. For all three variations of the name, "activated" is sometimes substituted by "active". By any name, it is a material with an exceptionally high surface area. Just one gram of activated carbon has a surface area of approximately 500 m2, typically determined by nitrogen gas adsorption, and includes a large amount of microporosity. Sufficient activation for useful applications may come solely from the high surface area, though often further chemical treatment is used to enhance the absorbing properties of the material."

sweet, cheers pro grow for the techie low down:thumbsup:
so can ya recomend any other filtration medium which is also easily available as i dont have the luxury of a nearby hydro store.

also i've decided to build a veg cab in my room but will be a little restricted by size (2'x3'x4'). i've just finished making my light system, i made a reflector from sheet aluminium and i've taken apart 5 x 24" 18w flouros, mounted the bulb holders in the hood and the ballasts will be outside the cab to reduce heat build up.

my flower cab will running dwc under 400w hps, so my question is will it be ok to build a shallow dwc set up or do the roots need a certain depth of water, as i dont wanna sacrifice height in there but, if i did it dwc, it would be easier to transplant into my flowering chamer, or could any1 recomend another set up which will facillitate ease of transplant and a shallow base.
hope this makes sense an not just more stoned babbling

peace out