JC, love to see anything and everything relating to these inductino lights, including grow tests.Quote:
Originally Posted by jscruggs420
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JC, love to see anything and everything relating to these inductino lights, including grow tests.Quote:
Originally Posted by jscruggs420
How about that data bubba??? Looking foreword to it!
Ken :thumbsup:
I wound up buying 6 -200w/2300k induction lights ($980with delivery) from a supplier in china. who made test subjects for me. I would post some grow logs, but as this is my first legal grow, and the lamps took a little too long for manufacture, and delivery, I can't post good solid data. I have like 2.5 feet of stem on my plants and had to do some crazy bends to keep tops from hitting the ceiling, I will ,however, post my flower cycle for my clones in about 2-3 weeks from now. this will be a better test, as i will be starting with reasonable size vegged plants.
Down side is that one lamp had a bad ballast, and the rep has still not rectified the situation completely. though they did sent out a replacement ballast, it also malfunctioned, and blew out light. other lights are bright and no probs.
I could use some questions about 2100k lights with a reference to my tests, to the rep, to motivate her a little more, that people are interested in this product, but are awaiting test results from the guy who bought 6/2300k lights from her company ;-) Cherry <[email protected]>
is this the mland light, or a different company in china?Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveat1
Different company. you can find their lead info on Alibaba dot com if you search in alibaba , for induction lamp, and 2100k.
I spoke with m-land, but the other company was willing to make 2100k lamps, though specs didn't quite meet the 2100k color temp. please email the address i posted, the rep will be very happy and enthusiastic to create a new grower's lamp with 2100k, if they perceive demand.
the lights don't come with reflector, but i had no problem making one with aluminum roof flashing for about $15.
That's the problem with buying from chinese factory... they take a long time to arrive, and if there's defects it takes even longer. If you find a local supplier, they should have supplies on hand so you're not waiting around. More $$ of course but that's what you pay for.
why did you buy 200w instead of 400w? just because of how your grow space is set up? I hope to try 400w induction +100w T5 vs. 1000w HPS to test if they're in the same league. Planning to run on a 4'x4' area on both.
I keep seeing the spectrum getting redder in these discussions... first 2700k, 2300k, now 2100k ... will it make a big difference?
The color temp is only a representation of an average value.Quote:
Originally Posted by vannewb
I'm working on induction lights that won't even bother with a color temp, they'll operate on the same principle as LED, but with much better efficiencies.
how long do you think that will take you? induction lights that target wavelengths specific for plant growth would be revolutionary!Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
We already have them, I'm actually working on better phosphors to make a nice quad-band induction lamp.Quote:
Originally Posted by vannewb
you should look at the work of these hydrogrow LED people, they got the spectrum down on their productsQuote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Hydro Grow LED
I'm interested too. Keep us up to day Khyber.Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Only two of their listed wavelengths have the highest efficiency, the other two are off by about 10-20nm and that really affects the performance of the light.Quote:
Originally Posted by squarepush3r
Also, their far-red is useless since they're using 660 and not 680. The Emerson Effect with Far-Red doesn't occur without 670-680nm radiation, 660 just doesn't cut it very well. Also, the overall balance, too much red.
The only thing they have that appears to beat me is 60 degree diodes in the panel construction. Even their price per watt is kinda out there.
I spoke to bubba a few weeks ago and he said some locals were putting them to the test.Quote:
Originally Posted by krazyken
His 400w unit is $400 or $499 (sorry can't recall) compared to yours at $800, a price that makes even me balk.
Ok fine how long do you think your better phospors will take?Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Apparently you're still testing how much blue vs. red you want in your lights?
"Ok fine how long do you think your better phospors will take?
Apparently you're still testing how much blue vs. red you want in your lights? "
Just waiting for them to be able to make the quantum-dot phosphors I need for 420nm, and I'll have my full line-up. Maybe 6 months, it's tough to tell.
As for testing how much red vs. blue I want, I've pretty much settled upon that number.
Well folks it's moving along good with the induction show down, hps vs induction bloom.
Were at week one and both are already showing mini flowers.
Were using Advanced Nutrients for every step of the way.
I have started out with a 300 vs 300 systems.
I have noticed that since bringing the HPs into my room my temp increase has jumped at least 15 degrees.
The induction runs much cooler and I can leave the light stationary.
With the HPs I have had to move the lamp twice.
I will be posting pictures in the next couple days.
I also use LED for all my clones, I find that the babies love the LED more than your basic CFL's.
I move my clones to my flowering room at 12-14 inches.
I also do hand watering and mix my nutes at 1 gal. At a time.
Were growing good old Northern Lights hybred, to get the best of both worlds.
Happy farming to all and good luck.
For the best scientific results, don't use Advanced Nutrients. Use something general-purpose that is commonly found and easy for anybody to reproduce at a low cost. Any typical Hoagland's solution should do the trick just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Romantik
Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbas
$480 is a steep price for a lamp with no fixture. I sell M-Land Bi-spectrum 300W for $532 + shipping/handling. These specific units are IP65 rated, water proof for indoor/outdoor use. As someone mentioned earlier about the shipping cost being high, it is, and they will not budge. Shipping costs are controlled by the shipping companies and not the manufactures. You would have to order a whack of them to save any real amount. They weigh 33 lbs because of the thick aluminum fixture and tempered glass cover. For $52 more you get the fixture and water proof rating. JMO
Yes they are! :smokin:Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Just wait until M-Land get my specialize dphosphor blend in it (if they go for it, anyways,) then they'l be better than LED, no joke. I love LED, but Induction offers so much more.
Thank you so much khyberkitsune for positive response! The science is there! The Bi-spectrum units are the best so far! I do hope you hit it off with M-Land!Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Kenneth Surgent
Advanced Hydroponics
EFDL Lighting
Ontario, Canada
Well, while the science is there, there is a limitation to induction, while LED has the potential to surpass HID.Quote:
Originally Posted by krazyken
Also, I'm working on quad-band induction.
300w HPS? do you mean 2x 150w?Quote:
Originally Posted by Romantik
If you're running 300w of each, how can they warm the rooms differently? in the end all that power turns into heat.
I think he means he has one 300 watt hps versus a 300 watt induction light.
Doesn't heat output depend on the efficiency of the light and the amounts of light produced at different wavelengths?Quote:
Originally Posted by vannewb
Well, different lights put out different heat. Some don't put any heat out at all, like LEDs. I believe induction lighting is also very very low. It depends on how the light is produced.
im fairly sure heat is based on watts, ie 300w = 300w
First, LEDs do produce heat, just not nearly as much due to efficiencies. Hence, a 300w LED can be cooled with a heat sink or a small computer fan while a 300w HID needs a squirrel cage. LEDs only produce light in few wavelengths while an HID produces a ton light across a wider spectra including yellow and orange light which equals heat. An HID also literally burns inside the bulb. So 300w of HID = tons more heat than 300w of LED. That much I'm sure of. We need khyberkitsune in here to straighten this out...
any pics of your grow with the lights that you are selling caus i am interested but would like to see some results first? Also, you can just stay in the house I think, squatters rights or something, look it up =] good luckQuote:
Originally Posted by romo76
Renters have rights. You should be contacting a lawyer right now.
if u got the 40 watt induction lamps 3500k and placed them 6 inch away from each other in a row could u flower good if u only placed the plants right under the lights?
40 watt= 3000lm
forgot to say the plants will be small2 to 3 feet tops
I've gotten a few emails with some questions so hopefully I can answer everyones at once.
First off, thanks for advice about renters rights. Unfortunately in Nevada renters have limited to no rights. I already talked to a friend who is a lawyer and a realtor as-well and both said I'm SOL. However if I was in California I could tell them to go suck-it for 6-months or more.
Onto the lights:
-Sorry no pix of results. Even-though I was doing this for legal purposes I didn't feel the need for any unnecessary exposure. A friend did take a few...will ask if he still has them and post if available.
-What is the light spread? I don't exactly know as I kept the lights aprox 3"-4" above canopy. My set-up was a 4-pipe recirculating system 8'-long 3.5'-wide...SOG 40-plants...2-inductions on 1 Light-Rail 3.5. Worked great for me.
-How warm do they get? If I was to guess...75+/-....warm to touch...not hot. Great lights for anyone who may have ventilation issues. Or if you choose not to use ventilation at all and keep your CO2 confined.
-What color spectrum do you have? I currently have the purple M-land currently in each fixture. I had 5-extra 2700K bulbs for flower which worked very well. I was swapping out bulbs like you would do with a digital HPS & HM ballast. Unfortunately when I was moving some stuff around the box with 2700k bulbs fell over and all broke.
-What's your opinion on performance? The purple veged like crazy (300-induction stayed neck-in-neck with 600-MH). So IMO equivalent to 600-HPS/MH. Although I never tested with any higher then 600w HPS. Furthermore you can flower with the purple, however like in a previous post they fall about 30% short. Moreover you can flower with a MH and get the same results....best to switch to HPS. Having said that maybe the Bi-Spectrum is the answer for both cycles. That was going to be my next test.
-Cost of shipping? Go to USPS, UPS, FedEx and use the calculators they provide. Shipping from NV 89510 Weight-30lbs 8"x15"x34".
-No-one asked this...but the lights have a 5-year warranty....So about 4.5-years left on warranty.
Hope this answers everyones questions.
are you in reno nv?
i am 89436 lol
but would the 40 watt induction bulbs flower if u have enough in the 2800k
i think it would be around 7000lum or more a sq ft
I'm in Tahoe...and could come down the hill.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLegal
I only have the (5)-300w
what color are they?
and how do they do for flowering
MrLegal...If you are interested in helping patients....I have a few that will need help in the area. As I can no-longer help them.
However due to NV law you would not be-able to take ANY compensation. I only did this because I believe in helping and the cause.
Hay all,
Sorry to do this to the peps that are interested in the lights. But I just got a call and found out that my wife's mother is back in the hospital with aggressive cancer. They thought it was taken care of 1.5-years ago, however it sounds like it came back and spread to her lymph-nods in her chest and potentially her bone. Everything I own will be going to storage for now and I will have to deal with this later when I get back. I will get back in-touch with those who were interested...maybe few weeks...or more....not sure. Again...Sorry. Best of luck to everyone.
I just finished my first harvest ever with a 400 watt Induction Grow light.
The questions:
1. Can an induction light produce Grade A+ bud.
A: Yes, yes, and yes. You will need some supplemental lighting to get there but it is easily done.
2. Can an induction light flower as quickly as HPS?
A: No not really. With supplemental lighting you can get fairly close. (but good things come to those who wait)
3. Can you produce the same weight as HPS?
A: Easily- and actually can be a decent bit more. There is a little more strategy involved (SOG- recommended) Use 2-3 times more plants but keep them smaller (dont veg as long- and drop bottom fruit early.)
Here are my personal thoughts on the light:
1. First off all of you who dont know this light is awesome compared to current lighting technology. The closest thing to Induction is LED.
2. The light I purchased shipped directly from China and cost me $310 including shipping (which was $130 of the $310- there was no shipping break on ordering multiple units i asked.) There are many providers but all the lights are coming from China at this point. (there are a few us importers and websites selling the lights but are charging an arm and a leg to get one)
The best place to find a supplier is ALIBABA.com
3. I dont have extensive growing experience but this is what I feel about the light.
Induction lights I thought could be purchased at different color spectrums (similar to ccfl's), however when I read into it the light actually produces a range of spectrum. The wholesalers typically claim 2700k-5400k. (the one I bought said 2100k-5400k). There is also a few different types- the pink ones which are not supposed to do well because the quality of light sucks and really can only be used for veg.
To get your 420 to flower at a similar rate to HPS you do need to add some supplemental lighting to get a stronger focus on the deep red part of the spectrum. I personally added 4 2700k CCFL's around my Induction light and it made a big difference in flowering time and size. (also considered a 90 watt all red 660nm LED UFO)
The Induction light on it's own would take about 1.5-2.5 weeks longer to bud than an HPS. With adding 2700k CCFL's it cuts down the flowering time to where its close to HPS (maybe a week longer at most). The good news the extra week under an Induction is well worth it. This light produces some of the most amazing chronic because of how well the plants absorb this type of light. The flowers it produces can be large also but that really depends on how you train the plant and what kind of setup/style you are running.
I recommend a SOG (sea of green) style and keep the plants smaller but a single focused stalk or lollipop style (where you drop all the bottom fruit early) so you get a few bigger buds instead of lots of mini's.
The whole advantage of this light is you can get it extremely close to the plants and it has almost no heat. This helps the plants absorbs incredible amount of energy.
Coverage:
1 400 watt light covers 2x3 feet. (with supplemental lighting 3x3-3x4)
So if you are planning on growing in a larger area multiple lights are necessary or a light mover (or both).
They now produce a 500 watt induction! I do recommend them just know that like everything else in this world nothing is as hyped up as sellers make them. You can save good money, get very good bud (that takes slightly longer), have no heat issues, can keep C02 levels higher, etc. but it has it setbacks as well, smaller plants, less coverage area.
If you can get a 500 watt shipped for under $400 it's worth a go. You will find yourself wanting to buy more of them after one harvest.
Hope I could help.
KronicKid
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsby
it's basic thermodynamics. if you're pumping 300w of electricity into a room, then 300w of energy has to come out of that room .. some way or another.Quote:
Originally Posted by neceros
In a sealed room, it's going to be almost entirely heat, with a negligible % of it being chemical energy (i.e., the plants you grew).
The reason people say "LEDs are cooler!!" is not because a 300w LED makes less heat than a 300w HID. It's because you can grow nearly as well with 300w LED as you can 1000w HID. The reality is you're simply pumping in only 30% of the electricity, which results in only 30% of the heat.
(There is also the issue that many "300w" leds could actually be consuming only, perhaps, 250w of electricity... while 300w of HID could consume a real 300w in the bulb, plus maybe another 50w in the ballast... so suddenly your HID setup is in reality consuming 50% more electricity than a supposedly equal wattage LED).
That said: If you put 2 equal wattage lights, with equal ballast losses, in identical sealed rooms... they will both heat those rooms nearly exactly the same amount, no matter how efficient the lamp is. The brighter lamp room will simply cause the heat emanate more from the plants/walls than from the bulb.
Anyone who claims they have seen a significant temperature difference with the same wattage is either mis-measuring, or not using similar wattage.
There's a *MASSIVE* difference between a 1000w LED panel, which does NOT have a glass casing that reaches 1000+F while in operation nor does it have burning electrodes, and a 1000w HID, which DOES. There's a difference between the heat output from a light that uses an open electrical arc (fluorescent, HID) and a light that uses quantum wells.Quote:
Originally Posted by vannewb
I compare watt-for-watt lighting (as close as possible) all day long for my job. In the same space (A PC case) even 50w LED runs much, MUCH cooler than 54w T5HO. Reason being, no electrodes as a spark gap emitter for a source of energy loss and heat generation.
I think you're also forgetting that entropy differs in different electrical system configurations. That in itself is a basic tenant of thermodynamics.
"Anyone who claims they have seen a significant temperature difference with the same wattage is either mis-measuring, or not using similar wattage. "
Oh, now, I wouldn't say that!:D
Aloha, vannewb
While you are spot on about Watts is Watts, you are overlooking a basic mechanism.
Most light sources radiate a lot of heat.
With leds the heat is produced by the diode which is tightly bonded to a heatsink.
I have a fan drawing the heat from the 'sink at the back of the lamp and I pump it out of the room before the room even knows it's there.;)
That is easy to do, with leds.:thumbsup:
Hps, even with a cool-tube, radiates much of it's heat into the room as IR, right through the cool-tube, where it is much more difficult to remove before it can cause problems.
So, I do claim, and can document, a significant temperature difference with similar wattage. :cool:
I am not mis-measuring.:)
I am taking advantage of the nature of the LED.
Narrow spectrum light that is ideal for photosynthesis. is all that I'm pumping into the room.
And the best part is, I'm putting 0 watts into less efficacious wavelengths, and almost none into radiated heat.:cool::cool::cool:
Jus' my 2 cents,
Aloha,
Weeze