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I'm a little concerned about the yellow tip, but if it isn't spreading to the new growth, I think she'll be ok. When your HPS comes in, keep it at least 12" away from your sprout, further to start her out....it's going to be a good, but a very big change for her so you won't want to shock her. Keep a fan in the room for circulation and make sure it blows on her as well. It'll blow out the hot, stale air and pump in the nice fresh air. Keep up the good work and Peace!
Thanks for the advice hipro, much appreciated. Yeah the yellowing has not spread at all, so I'm glad about that. The HPS should be arriving soon, but just a question...how hot is the HPS? Shoudl I put a bigger fan in there or is that not really that big of an issue? I plan on introducing my baby to some 20 20 20 neuts in about a week, but when shoudl I start the 12/12 cycle?
peace/love
~CP:rasta:
How much height do you have to work with? I wanted to keep mine at about 2-3 ft for my first time around so when they were around 12" tall we flipped them to 12/12. They usually grow about 2-3 times their height during flowering so keep that in mind. You will yield less if you flip them when they're smaller and immature.
HPS bulbs are fairly hot. I have 2x 250W lights on in my room right now and they are heating my entire 1 bdrm apartment, with the window in my room open most of the day for fresh air to get in. I'm in shorts at 9:30am and it's warm. There is 3" of snow on the ground outside. Point the fan at the hot air under the bulb and above the plants you should be able to put it about 3ft away for now. Possibly closer but I'm not sure if that'll be too much shock so it's best to start further and move closer than the other way 'round.
-canuck :jointsmile:
wait to put them into flowering until your plant(s) preflower (if you don't know what preflowering is, check the boards, there are lots of great pics on this). preflowering should occur 2-3 after your seed has sprouted, in a healthy happy plant. pistils=female, balls=male. you want to wait for them to preflower, before you switch them to 12/12 because the preflowering means that they are sexually mature. if you put them into 12/12 too early, the plants will usually wait to flower until they are sexually mature anyways, ie. putting your plants into 12/12 too early won't make them flower any faster than if you had waited for them to preflower.
look just read k.p's cannabis collage i aint been funny but u need to read and read and read or ur never gonna learn any thing ur asking about the simplist things which any basic grower should know nuff said laters peace!
hey pumpkin, looking good so far, besides the bean burn...
hps lamps produce ALOT of heat; be prepared to mcguiver something to cool your area down.
DO NOT nute for at least another week, she's not ready, nor does she need it.
plants will not produce flowers until they are sexually mature, which happens when they are between 4-8 weeks old. if you force flower before the plant is mature, it won't produce until it's ready, so you lose veg time...
as for cloning...
Cloning is a simple method of replicating your plants. In most cases a clone is taken from a mother plant and grown into a new plant that contains the exact same genetic code as its mother plant.
In a selection of 30 seeds you may find a nice mother plant that you wish to keep. You can sustain and keep using her genetic profile indefinitely through cloning.
Any cannabis plant can be cloned once it's been grown to a certain height and has developed a number of node regions.* The best place to take a cutting for cloning is above a node that has at least two nodes above it. The smallest cuttings on average are three inches in length. Once the cutting has been taken it is placed in the growing medium and should form new roots over the next one to three weeks.
Cloning straight to soil can have a low success rate and is very dependent on the type pf soil that you are using. Use the wrong soil and the clone will fail quickly. The best soil for cloning is a standard loam type with an even N PK ratio. Avoid using seedling or cutting soils as most of these have added hormones and nutrients that are not suitable for cannabis or cannabis cuttings.
Cloning in water also has a low success rate because the roots need air to breath once they have developed. If they remain submerged, the cuttings will eventually die. In water cloning, the cutting needs to be transferred to another medium, such as soil, rockwool or a hydroponics system. This means that the clone will have to move through a number of mediums before finally being transplanted to the main growing environment. Multiple transplants can lead to stress and the overall success rate can decrease because of this.
Some advanced growers like to use an aero cloning kit that acts like a miniature aeroponics systems for the propagation of clones.These systems can be expensive, however, and tend to require a lot of practice before getting cuttings to successfully root in the system.
The best medium for cloning is rockwool cubes or Oasis foam bricks. In order to increase your success rate with cloning you may wish to purchase a rooting solution, which can be bought from most grow shops.
Make sure you that use a clean instrument, or better yet a sterile instrument, when you make your cut. Try to take a piece of stem of no more than three inches between the cut zone and the next node level. The longer this section is, the more difficulty the cutting will have in the uptake of water and nutrients it needs to grow and produce roots. Take the cutting and dip the cut area into the rooting solution before placing it into the medium. Make sure that you close any holes where the cutting may have punctured the medium to prevent air from reaching the cut zone, which can stunt root growth. Do this by simply filling in any gaps with little pieces of the medium. Clones don't need much light to root. Try to avoid using the bigger grow bulbs for cloning as this can be a waste of electricity and bulb life. A simple window with some outdoor light is all you will need for the clone to root. Many people use fluorescent lights for clones.
When the clone takes root in the rockwool you will see the roots jut out from the sides of the cube. It is best to keep the cube size small so that you can observe the roots' progress. A two-inch squared cube is ideal for rooting cuttings. Any bigger and it will take longer for the roots to grow outside of the cube. When they do the clone should be transferred to its new grow medium: soil, hydroponics or aeroponics. This is the most successful way of producing clones. The great thing about cloning is that you can create hundreds of female plants from a single mother. Clones also flower more quickly and you know what you are getting in the end because you have already seen, smoked and grown the plant that the clone was taken from.
Although you can take clones at any time during the plant's life it is best to do so during the vegetative stage of growth. Clones carry the same age as the parent plant. Some clones used by seed-bank breeders are actually more than a decade old. They have been propagated for years and years by constantly taking cuttings from clones and then taking further cuttings from these cuttings. If you take a cutting a week before the plant is mature enough to display sex then the cutting should only need a week after rooting before it is able to flower. If you take a cutting during flowering the clone should be able to flower right away after it has rooted. If you want to revert a cutting from flowering to vegetative growth simply keep the cutting under 24 hours of light and clip away any calyx or flower formations that appear. After a short time under constant light, the cutting will revert to vegetative growth; however any manipulation of the photoperiod will throw the plant back into flowering almost instantly.
Clones that are taken from a plant during vegetative growth are much easier to control than clones that are taken from a flowering plant. That is why we generally take clones during the third or forth week of vegetative growth.
Growers can use cloning hormones or rooting hormones, which come in two main formats: powders and gels. Powder hormones are generally used for cloning in soil. The powder is tapped into a small hole in the soil and the cutting is placed into this hole. A small amount of the powder is then added to surface of the soil so that, with successive watering, the powder will seep down into the soil and promote root growth. Rooting gels are much better because they act as a seal, preventing air from reaching the cut zone. In addition, gels are not water soluble, whereas powders tend to be.This means that gels have a longer lifespan than powders.
A proper rooting hormone should contain the vitamin Bl (Thiamine). As an experiment, cut some roots from a test plant and place half of the 'dead' roots into a solution of water and the other half into a solution of water and vitamin Bl.The roots in water with added thiamine will continue to grow for quite some time, while the roots in the plain water solution will die.
The time it takes to root a clone depends on the strain and the cloning method used. Some strains, like Blueberry, are notoriously hard to clone. Others are much easier. On average it takes about a week and half for a clone to develop a root mass suitable for transplantation. Do not be surprised if you find that it takes a set of clones more than three weeks to develop a root mass.The best way to tell whether or not your clones are rooting properly is to clone in batches from the same strain. If some of the clones do not develop a root mass after the others have, chances are that these clones have failed to root.Take one of the clones without any obvious root mass from the medium and pull it up to check for roots. If none have developed then the cutting has failed to root and should be discarded.
You should never let your cloning medium dry out. Keep it damp (not soaking wet) and check for fungi development regularly. Cloning environments containing damp mediums like rockwool are ideal breeding grounds for fungi.
Thanks for the post KP, good read! Very informative...man you really could be a ganja prof.. lol.
You should see the sprout now...it had a ridiculous growth spurt. I'm not at my place atm but I'll send the pics when I get back. Im hoping its a female so I can give this cloning thing a try.:rastasmoke:
~CP
btw, that last tidbit is from an excerpt from marijuanahydro.com... i just had some butthead accuse me of plagerizing the cannabis grow bible (which i've never read) so, i figured i'd give out the credit; note: the cannabis college is pulled and organized from marijuanahdro.com, as stated at the beginning of the thread...
kp
yeah, kp.... stop stealing... :p
rrrr....