didnt read all the ansers u got but here goes
the second photo shows heat damage from having the lights too close
the nutrient is fine check and corect the PH
bye
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didnt read all the ansers u got but here goes
the second photo shows heat damage from having the lights too close
the nutrient is fine check and corect the PH
bye
most important thing to remember with any electronic tester is to get one of good quality, as far as the readings it shoul have its simple
an EC meter needs to read from0{duh} to around three or 4.0 cf
its the range you will be working in. all comercially available testers work within those ranges
there are beter than others, it always to pay a little extra fo a water proof one, again it always pays to pay a little more for one that auto calibrates and reads temp of sollution!,,, you could always buy a combi that does all this and EC !.... although i like to keep a seperate EC and PH tester, as if one goes i dont loose all control!.
Hanna are good , i have used them for many yrs
ythe combo does EC PH SAL TEMP
or a simpler version for around 50 to 55 euros does EC or PH
try not to buy too cheap! and remember tpo buy calibration fluid and test every week!! the better quality and more expensive the longer it will last! but they are all very sensitive and even the smallest of drops means a re calibration to make sure, nothing worse than working with confidence with a baddly calibrated ph or ec meter,,,,,,
good luck
Thanks, misty. I ref your posts several times, I'm sure.
The info that I'm desperately looking for right now is what all the readings that these meters take should read.
What I mean is, what range in EC is a hydro grower shooting for? and what about PPM? How many PPM should there be in the nute solution? And pure honesty one this point, I don't even know WTF CF is, muchless what the good range is. I don't see any point in getting this equipment if I don't know what the readings mean, and I can't seem to find anything that will really explnain what they are and what the good range is in hydroponics.
sure .. at the first staage { from the point the clone has roots} you need a low EC
best to aleways use osmosis water ! go for an ec of about .5
the EC reads the electroconductivity of the water, this means basically a rough guide to the streangth of the nutrients added!,
at first a low EC is needed
we would be concentrating more on the development of the roots at this stage,as the plant progresses we increase the amount of food very slowlly each day!
buy the second week of grow i tend to have an EC of around .95. at the end of the second week i will be hitting around 1.2. at this point its the time to feed as much as possible
all strains ar diferent in the amount they eat., so we check for signs of burnt tips!!, if this occours back off just a little, and your at the max
the EC will then change when in flowering sollutions
at first 1.4 and then again same proceedure untill she's at max, always very little at a time
!..
the PH for hydro systems is 5.7 ideally
however if you are in rockwool you may need to alter thids to 5.5 to maintain 5.7 at the drainage well i think thats covered it
except that most flowering formulas bring an PK 13 14 to add at later stages of flowering
follow instructions
youll have no probs
That's excellent. I've got a ph meter and a in&out thermometer on the way to me. Now I just need to get one of those others for the nutes and I'll be standing in tall cotton.:thumbsup:
glad to hear itrs all coming together for you
and again good luck!,,,,,the number one rule for any grow,,,especially hydro is,,,,,,always have everything you need, before you need it! and dont make short cuts, they have all been made for you, hydro is the quickest most productive method, so be patient and and read all you can and then you can expect good results. cya soon
try the chat sometime
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radium
i agree with the nutes that are recomendedQuote:
Originally Posted by Radium
although i dont agree with the ego this guy has, "plz listen to me only"
dude, if you want awnsers get a book like greg greens "cannsbis grow bible" or watch a video like high-times "ready-set -grow) thats the truth buddy:thumbsup:
im not knockin radium or sayin he is a novice or anything like that, but he shouldnt go around knockin 7,535 active users like we dont know shit..
Like i said, just research everything you hear before tryin it
and as always......
happy growing:thumbsup:
thank you.....:thumbsup: :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjohn420
Ya pH was your problem and 5.8 is the goal!! You should never run nutes at full strength, it is almost never required.. 1/4 strength for young plants, then adjust with age/size! you could always just use half the package and go from there!
Best of karma to you!
Ken
okay man all you have here is just some nutrient deficiency.
For the one with the leafs curling over: you have a Magniesium deficiency, this is easily treated using Epsom salts (MgSO4) at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water.
for the leafs curling under: you have either a (K) or potassium deficiency or a (CU) deficiency, more than likely its just over fertilized. (K) deficiency can be treated with any high-K fertilizer. Cu deficiencies are rare and mimic symptoms of overfertilization. A fungicide, copper sulfate, (CuSO$) can be used as a foliar spray to relieve the deficiency.
hope my advice can help you, i have a major in biology/chemistry and ive been growing hydro for some time now, so this should help you, if you dont know much about the lingo just write it down and go into you local grow shop, they should be able to help you...
peace :rasta: :rasta: :rasta: