2 room flipflop relay

Check this picture out..............

Another Picture..............

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Originally Posted by kushman45

when one goes off the other goes on?

Exactly flipflop using only one ballast..............:)

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okay, but you do understand that you will need a seperate igniter and capacitor for each bulb right? Well i would just use a 2 DPDT relay, hook up a single switch or timer on the coils, then hook the ballast the 120v of the ballast to one relay pole and the negative on the other relay, then run your lines out the relays like you'd normally do from the ballast to cap to igniter to bulb, then when the timer is on it will make the coils contact having voltage sent to one bulb and when it goes off it will open the coils sending the voltage to the other bulb. I hope you understand cause right now my MSvisio isnt working so i cant draw up a schematic

here is a 4 light flip that uses dayton relays from grainger.com I use it on 1000 watt lights and have never had a problem. The relays come in 2 pieces the relay and the base the relay is model #5yr16 and the base is 2a582m I had this diagram made up for someone else a while back hope it helps. I had to down size it alot if anyone wants a better copy pm me and I will get it to you in a bigger size

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Originally Posted by h3o

okay, but you do understand that you will need a seperate igniter and capacitor for each bulb right? Well i would just use a 2 DPDT relay, hook up a single switch or timer on the coils, then hook the ballast the 120v of the ballast to one relay pole and the negative on the other relay, then run your lines out the relays like you'd normally do from the ballast to cap to igniter to bulb, then when the timer is on it will make the coils contact having voltage sent to one bulb and when it goes off it will open the coils sending the voltage to the other bulb. I hope you understand cause right now my MSvisio isnt working so i cant draw up a schematic

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Dude I dont think you understand people are using these without the extra igniter or capacitor. when the ballast gets flipped the capacitor is already charged and no bulb gets blown or burnt. From what I have found they just use a DPDT relay to switch the hot side of the circuit. Hey I am no expert on this subject but you are making it more complicated then it is. Unless you are an electrician it is not rocket science. Please post your schematic if you have one. I understand what you are thinking but it is not as you think. Again you do not need an extra ignitor or cap.................goodluck.........:smokin:

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Originally Posted by u.g.u

here is a 4 light flip that uses dayton relays from grainger.com I use it on 1000 watt lights and have never had a problem. The relays come in 2 pieces the relay and the base the relay is model #5yr16 and the base is 2a582m I had this diagram made up for someone else a while back hope it helps. I had to down size it alot if anyone wants a better copy pm me and I will get it to you in a bigger size

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UGU wow thanks for your input but man that schematic looks like a bunch of squiggly lines do you have a more clear picture. also how long have you been using yours have you had any issues with the relay welding or locking up........

OK read this thread good info hope the link is ok to post for learning purpose........http://www.gardenscure.com/420/showthread.php?t=76436 ......

hey man i have a flip flop box it for 7 x 1000w lights times 2 so it will run 14 lights altogether get back to me and i will try to help you the best i can. its a relatively simple concept but yes they do cost an arm and a leg i think i payed 550 for mine just for the flip flop board then add 7 ballasts and 14 bulbs and shields and your starting to really get up there in price i am a hardcore do it yourselfer as well and i would be more than happy to help you out with any info i can provide.dont listen to ppl who have never had or used one the only thing they are gonna help is burning your house down faster lol . if you need to get a hold of me you can email me at [email protected]

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Originally Posted by kushman45

Dude I dont think you understand people are using these without the extra igniter or capacitor. when the ballast gets flipped the capacitor is already charged and no bulb gets blown or burnt. From what I have found they just use a DPDT relay to switch the hot side of the circuit. Hey I am no expert on this subject but you are making it more complicated then it is. Unless you are an electrician it is not rocket science. Please post your schematic if you have one. I understand what you are thinking but it is not as you think. Again you do not need an extra ignitor or cap.................goodluck.........:smokin:

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okay have you ever heard of a "hot start?" This is when voltage is applied immediatly not letting the pressure build in the bulb first, this is what the capacitor charge time is for. Yes, you can run a 1 cap and 1 igniter for both bulb, but you are also going to be going through bulbs left and right and your lumens rate will wear down very quickly. But hey its up to you, I will not write up a schematic for that system because in my eyes its wrong, and im sure in most electricians view points they wouldnt do it unless they wanted a quick buck. And yes I am a Journeyman housing electrician and also a electronic technician, so I do have both aspects on my side.

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Originally Posted by h3o

okay have you ever heard of a "hot start?" This is when voltage is applied immediatly not letting the pressure build in the bulb first, this is what the capacitor charge time is for. Yes, you can run a 1 cap and 1 igniter for both bulb, but you are also going to be going through bulbs left and right and your lumens rate will wear down very quickly. But hey its up to you, I will not write up a schematic for that system because in my eyes its wrong, and im sure in most electricians view points they wouldnt do it unless they wanted a quick buck. And yes I am a Journeyman housing electrician and also a electronic technician, so I do have both aspects on my side.

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h3o hey I appreciate you are trying to help but Im tellin ya, you are not "Hot Starting" because you are switching to a cold bulb I hope you understand. The ones made by retailers do not have extra ballast caps or ignitors it works with just relays that switch the hot side between bulbs. The ballast stays warm and charged and just fires the cold bulb when it flips................................Thanks to everyone who is interested if you are afraid of electricity this is not for you.............goodluck........