New Grow Room Advice

Hi,

Usually increasing air flow will reduce humidity and vise versa. If you have a speed controller for your fans then you can change the speed, or you can use a timer to turn them on and off every couple of minutes. For little seedlings use a plastic dome for the first few days. Usually when they get bigger you will be trying to reduce humidity, not increase it. The bowl of water idea is good for increasing humidity.

Also, relative humidity is the percentage of water vapour in the air out of the maximum amount of water vapour it can actually hold. The maximum amount of vapour the air can hold at a particular time is called the saturation point. The saturation point will change depending on temperature. Hotter temps will increase the saturation point and colder temps will lower it. So, if you increase temperature, you increase the saturation point, which lowers relative humidity (if the level of water vapour remains the same).

I hope this helps. Look forward to seeing your grow :)

Hey,

I just purchased two fans 6" that clip on the side of the grow tent made for the jardins but will do mine just fine :-) They have two speeds. I plan to use them on the canopy and to help move air around the room. I've noticed since i've put the plants in that humidity has risen which is good.. now its making me think ahead when I need to start bringing it back down.. which might not be so easy. Do you think buying a compact dehumidifier off ebay will do the trick or is this not a good idea? So when i need to bring it down for flower/veg i can use one of those? or is that not a good way?

Thanks!

Dehumidifiers are fine, but you might not need one. Wait and see what happens, if by early to mid flowering you can't control the humidity then invest in one. Don't expect your first grow to be amazing anyway, you will learn so much from it and your second will be much better. I found that with my first few grows the harvest got much bigger each time.

Humidity should be kept below 40% towards the end of flowering, but if you don't have massive, dense buds then it's okay for it to be a little higher. Autoflowering strains tend to have smaller buds, so if humidity is at 50-60% and there's no mould developing then you should be all right. By the end of your grow you will be able to look back and decide what changes you should make for your second grow.

Below is a how-to for AutoFlowers. (copied from another site) Although the strains differ a bit, this should help.

Check the Dealing with heat issues thread in my signature. Turn on your lights for a few hours as if the plants were in there, and see what your temps do as a result. (a dry-run)
Passive intake (not fan-forced) is fine, but make sure to exhaust the humidity and heat.


OFFICIAL LOWRYDER GROW GUIDE - written by the Joint doctor

Preferred growing methods

Indoors, Lowryder performs very well in soil mix (pots or beds) or in soil-less systems, where it can be cultivated from seed to bud in two months â?? 18 hours of light per day is recommended all the way through. Switching light cycles down to 12 hours may diminish yields and shorten the already-short life cycle slightly. Because Lowryderâ??s life cycle is so brief, cloning becomes impracticable, so only plants from seed are grown. By default, Lowryder is a great choice for sea-of-green.

Because flowering plants and seedlings can be maintained in the same room, Lowryder presents new possibilities for the small to medium home grower, including â??staggeringâ?� your indoor harvest. A true continuous harvest system may be achieved by planting new plants periodically to replace the ones that have been harvested. This ensures that a grow
room is always full and always producing fresh bud, and one never has too much work at once. Click here to learn more about the Joint Doctorâ??s â??1-2-3â?� continuous harvest method.

For best results, place jiffy pellet or plant directly into 1-2 gal.pots. Alternatively, start in 4-inch peat pots, then place
rootbound females into a plant bed after sexing (at approx. 17-20 days) â?? this may result in smaller plants than the first method. Grown under a 12 to 24 hour/daylight cycle from start to finish. I recommend 18 hours per day; this can be decreased to 16 after the first month with no loss of yield.


Outdoors: sow directly into soil after soaking, in 2 gal. pots or plant beds. New stands of Lowryder can be planted up until late summer, to ensure a continuous harvest outdoors. Avoid transplanting if you can, but do so if plants become rootbound. Rogue (remove) males at three weeks.


Growth Factors

Lowryder is extremely versatile in that it can be cultivated in virtually any climate or grow environment. In fact, it has pushed the envelope of growing, enabling early harvests in unlikely places like Finland, the North West Territories, and other northern, short-season, or high altitude areas. It is also well-adapted to backyard gardens, windowsills and patios where plants can be easily concealed because of their tiny size.

Nothing will mature earlier or faster than Lowryder! When other varieties have barely begun flowering, Lowryder outdoor growers are kicking up their feet and already enjoying their fresh harvests.

Characteristics

Lowryder virtually does away with the vegetative growth stage: it passes almost immediately from the seedling stage to the flowering period. To our knowledge, Lowryder has the shortest known life cycle and height in the cannabis species.
Male plants may be identified as such after approx. 17-20 days, while females show themselves a couple days later. Plants will even flower under a continuous light regime.

Lowryder females usually grow no taller than 16-20 inches. 12-16 inches is typical. Light intensity, pot size, and proper pH all play an important role in determining the size of plants at maturity â?? the better the conditions, the bigger the yield. Plants produce one main cola, although when they receive adequate light, lower nodes branch out profusely.

Yield and height are dependent on obvious growth factors. For example, plants kept in small peat cups on a windowsill may yield as little as 1 g. and grow no taller than 6 inches, with no branching whatsoever; while a plant in a 4-gallon container under high-intensity lighting and good cultivation methods, can turn into a profusely branched, two-foot wide 45-gram bud monster.


Fertilizer: During the first two weeks of growth, Lowryder should be weekly light feedings of a â??growâ?� type nutrient solution, with micronutrients. When plants pass into full flower, they should be started on a â??bloomâ?� regime for weeks 4 through 6. Mycorise-type biological amendments (root stimulators) seem to increase growth significantly.

Average flowering time
Indoors: 40-45 days (after a 15-20 day seedling stage)
Outdoors: ripens approx. 60 days after seed is sown.
Note: 100% of plants display the auto-flowering genotype.

AVERAGE HEIGHT
12 inches. Minimum: 5 inches, maximum 16 inches (very light-dependent, with slight phenotype variations).

YIELD
Depending on light and other factors, Lowryder yields up to 45 g â?? one report even claims 96 g for one exceptional plant under hydroponics. Extremely light-dependent in terms of yield. Without adequate conditions, plants may stay extremely small, almost comically so â?? but still produce a decent smoke.

Buds are compactand close-quartered, slightly irregular and variable, with high bud/leaf ratio. Thick pistils, with orange coloration, and medium-sized, individual calyxes. Tends to be top-heavy indoors. Typically, budding sites start very close to the ground.

High is uplifting, surprisingly strong. Well-rounded. Best suited for outdoor activities. Smoke is smooth with pleasant, earthy undertones. Smell is not overpowering. Unique flavor, with echoes of NL and Williamâ??s Wonder in the bouquet.

On nutes:

I get alot of requests for more info on nutrient needs for Lowryder. This is a hard question to answer as it depends how much money you want to shell out for nutrient products.

I get Advanced Nutrient products (many say the best) at a discount and I have adapted their formula for my own use. Advanced Nutrients provides a complete program for an 8-week grow and has a guide for different growing mediums.

For the first two weeks, I use what they recommend for seedlings.

Then I use the Micro 2+ Light Feeding program for the rest of their life cycle. I usually skip week 3 and 5 to bring it down to a 6 week program which I begin as soon as LRs are sexed.

I know it sounds complicated. Obviously all this is not needed.

As a rule of thumb, treat Lowryders like seedlings for the first 2-3 weeks, then switch them onto a light bloom program. So, you feed them a seedling/transplanting formula the first 2 weeks, then switch to a bloom fertilizer with something like a 5-10-5 or 1-2-1 ratio of N-P-K.

Give them a feeding of bloom fertilizer every week on weeks 3,4,5,6. Just pH-balanced water on week 7. Flushing solution on week 8.

...or for organic freaks, just plant into organic soil mix with bat guano mixed in... and put away the calculator... .

Awesome, thank you both for your input. I have started a grow guide, check it out: http://boards.cannabis.com/grow-log/...g-strains.html :-)

link is broken

Yeah I Just realised this, the administrator deleted the wrong damn post! I can't believe it and left the old one that I asked him to delete there...

do you have any idea how you delete your threads so i can start again? Can't believe the admin deleted the wrong one! :(

Working now :-)