lower leaves turning purple-brown

I understand the financial end of it, and I also know the requirements the plants put on us. Wife and I are on a fixed income, and often I have to make sacrifices to keep our meds growing proper, and still afford to keep food on the table. I can't tell him how to get the funds to better care for his ladies, but I can steer him in the right direction and recommend the most important issues be dealt with as soon as possible. Since he wants to argue about and disregard personal experience, then so be it. I have no problem with personal choice. I thought I was rather restrained with my response though.

c'mmon guys - water under the bridge, right?

it is now 71 hours after i flushed them and lights are up is in about an hour.
last time i checked, the pots were still heavy, so i guess they need at least another day or two to suck the rest of the water out.
i want to move them into bigger pots but im thinking of running another flush first, as i dont want to flush them in the new pot, so i need some advice on the subject - my plan is to flush them again once the pots turn light (in a day or two), and then to wait another 4 days or so for them to dry again, and only then to move them to their new & bigger home. now, the last time i fed them was 6 days ago, and so if i flush them again instead of feeding them it will be a total of about 11-12 days without direct food - is that ok? also, as it seems that i suffer from a combination of problems that are probably: overfertilization,low-pH and root-bound - could you please specify which problem i should address first?

i'll try to upload fresh pics after they'll wake up soon

& thanks for stickin' around!

pics, fresh from the oven:
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If you're going to transplant, I'd do it about 10 minutes before you transplant. You're going to want to water 'em into the new soil when you transplant, and keeping soil saturated for extended periods is a bad idea. So at the same time is preferable. This helps remove salt (and nutrient) build-up before putting her into new soil. It won't flush the nutrients from the plant, but she'll use those nutrients sooner or later.
Cutting back on nutrients can help the ph issue, but if need be raise the ingoing water ph a bit highter than usual to compensate. If your new soil is pre-buffered, you might still have to help the old soil by raising the ingoing water ph a tad.
Have you ever tried unsulfered molasses...? Might be all you need from this point forward, and it's full of good stuff like calcium, magnesium, iron, carbs...and a host of micro's...
The plant will suck what it can (mobile elements) from fans, but it might be better than the "potentially harsh" (better...?) nutrients you've got.

well i got me a bottle of blackstrap molasses, how much should i put in one liter of water? it has (per serving, according to the chart): 25 mg Sodium (1%), 240mg Pottasium (7%). 20% Calcium, 25% Iron, 25% Magnesium (i guess the percentage is values based on daily diet, but no other values are specified), so how much to put in water, and should i feed them with it on each watering? can i also give it to them with the flush or should i wait for the next watering after the flush?

cheers!

For Blackstrap, (concentrated molasses) I'd start at about 1/2 teaspoon per gallon per week. (1/8 teaspoon per liter) But even that might be a pretty heavy dose. Have you read the molasses sticky? It's around here somewhere...

I would have it mixed already, and add it as the last liter of flushwater.

i read the molasses sticky (at least most of it) yet i still wasn't sure about the dosage.
about the flush - last time i flushed each plant with about 1.5 liters of pH'd water, should i use more water? can i use the runouts and run them in again in the same flush or should i only use "new" water?

thx

2-3 times the volume of the pot should be fine. Add the flush water slowly, so it'll absorb and flush, rather than just flowing out of the bottom unimpeded.

The reason for a flush, is to release/remove salts and built-up nutrients. If you re-use the flush run-off, you'll be adding that stuff back into the soil.

ok, so it appears that the flush that i made of 1.5 liter water for 6.5 liter pot was a joke...

as i can't afford the desired amount of mineral water for a proper flush, i filled about 30 liters of tap water in an open container and i'll delay the flush for tomorrow so the water can have enought time to lose the Chlorine (i'll adjust thier pH ofcourse). the tap water around here are pretty hard, so i hope that won't pose a new problem... at the end of the flush i'll add for each plant a liter of pH'd mineral water with some molasses sidolved in it (1/8 tea-spoon).

please correct me if im wrong
thanks

Sounds about right.

I'm not a big fan of worrying about hard water in soil grows. And if you'd notice...runoff is not clear which means it's picking-up more organics and nutrients and minerals than what was in the water in the first place. My tapwater is from a calcium carbonate/magnesium carbonate (limestone) aquafir and comes out out of the tap at 7.9 ph. A little phDown, and it's good to go. No problems with seedlings, clones adolescents nor adults.

The Effects of Hard Water on Gardens | eHow.com

A lot depends on what's actually in your water locally though, and whether you're on municipal water. Solid chlorine additives are an example of something that can only be filtered out or via R/O. (w/carbon filter) Googling your local water quality report can help with this, but I've lived in area's with reaaaal bad tapwater and have never purchased water as a result. As long as the water isn't killing the beneficials in the soil, or messing with your ph...you shoud be fine.

I guess for hydro or coco it might be an issue, but I didn't get any better a result when using R/O filtering to water a few grows. Twasn't worth it. I needed the R/O for my saltwater and coral tanks, and gave it a go for a while.

It might be a good idea to investigate your tapwater, as it's soooo much cheaper and easier if you can use it. Might be you'd save enough $ to get some fresh nutrients...:thumbsup: