Here is a direct link to this article on his new website: Understanding pH in Hydroponics â?? Part No.1. Click the "Home" link at upper left of the webpage to read lots more articles by him.Quote:
Originally Posted by MimbresValley
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Here is a direct link to this article on his new website: Understanding pH in Hydroponics â?? Part No.1. Click the "Home" link at upper left of the webpage to read lots more articles by him.Quote:
Originally Posted by MimbresValley
thanks Stone. I was having trouble finding the new link.
Nice save!
So on this run I tried to go with zero nutrients changes out, and just top backs, should have done at least one flush along the way I think, or ran a bit of a lower EC.
(don't want to steer people in the wrong direction, I can always admit if I made a mistake).
But all in all plant is looking pretty nice, should be a really nice harvest, and on the bright side, this run has been my cheapest ever.
You're welcome...thank you! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by MimbresValley
BTW, like polishpollack I am interested in what ferts you're using...
I highly recommend Ionic! Its what I generally use, and I always have great results with it. One simple bottle for veg, one simple bottle for bloom.
This round I am using technafloras, BcBoost and BcBloom, as I got some freebies from My local shop.
Although to be fair this is my first time with these nutrients so maybe after a couple runs I would have results more on par with Ionic.
:hippy:
Hey polish, totally missed your post:stoned:Quote:
Originally Posted by polishpollack
My room never gets over 73 degrees, so I don't have to worry about using a water chiller.
My water temps never get over 69 degrees, although it is possible to run a res at higher temps, You just have to run a very low ec, a very active system which can add lots of DO to the system. And either inoculate every couple days with earth worm casting tea, or run a sterile res, with products like dutch master zone, sm90 etc..
( i think for each 10 degreees your water temps go up, you loose about 30% DO in the water)
But also running to high of an EC, the nutrients compete for real estate with the DO, so A very simple way to increase DO is to run a low EC.
*My best tip*
Just wanted to make clear ph flucuating is ok, as long as it does not go out of the 5.5-6.5 range. If you find yourself with a PH of 7.0, You do need to bring it back down.Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmac
(just a quick clarification >)
Some folks will argue different, and thats ok, more than one way to skin a cat, and grow a plant.:stoned:
I am in a ebb and flow system with 12 buckets. My ph seems to go up each morning when I check it goes up to 7.0. I bring it back to 5.8 each afternoon . I do 4 water cycles for about an hour each. Is that a normal ph fluctuation? I am in early veg. stage. Under 400 watt halide and 2 T5 sets. I ordered a ppm meter when I get it what should my ppm be kept at?
"if the ppms are rising and ph dropping you are feeding to much. as the plants drink the water there is more nutes in it and the ph buffers are then lowering your ph as the water lvl drops.
it will be the exact opposite if you feed to low. your ppms will lower and your ph will rise."
I must assume my nutes are on the lighter side since my ph rises each day . Like I say I am waiting for my Milwaukee ppm meter. I do not know what my ppm is . However, that said when my ppm meter is used where do I want to be at?( ppm early vegetative stage). I rather be a bit light than heavy with nutes. I fear nute burn.