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Open the passive intake on the opposite side from the filter for increase air circulation. A minor quibble to be sure...Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Intake should be 1.5x the exhaust duct size. So a 4" duct wants a 6" passive vent. Two intakes will work. You may need to partially close one. Get yourself a fan speed controller so you can dial in the right speed.
If you vent out of the bottom of your tent you will want to give yourself at least a foot clearance and probably more like two feet. Any closes and you will decrease the efficiency of your fan due to resistance created when the exhaust hits the floor. Think about venting out of the side. You can always put a 6" riser in the bottom of your tent. Of course this creates another 90 degree angle which impacts fan performance as well. You should be fine with the fan you are proposing.
All of this really applies for sound proofing. since there's no intake fan he wants a smaller hole for ensured negative pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsby
Well, that's why he wants an elbow flange for the bottom section under the box, so it doesn't blow towards the floor, it blows out sideways from the bottom.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsby
He really doesn't need more than four inches of clearance. Well six since he's going cooltube, unless he wants to fit some 6-4 inch adapters to the tube.
khyberkitsune is correct. I'm going to use an elbow under my box and continue the ducting out my window. Should I use another elbow in my box to connect from fan to cooltube since its going to be a 90 degree angle or the ducting works fine? Also, since I'm using a 6" exhaust vent, what size should I cut out for my intake? I don't care for sound proof, I dont want bad pressure in my box.
Another elbow at the fan would be fine, or just plain ducting run along the ceiling. I've seen both done and both work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Malsor
For your hole. 6 inch exhaust, 4 inch intake hole. Guaranteed negative pressure and consistent.
thanks! Now as for ground clearance, I can raise it 6" off the ground but then I'm going to have the make my box 1' shorter so it would be 6' tall instead of 7'Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Yeah I got the numbers wrong. Exhaust vent size x 3/4. You probably know this but you will want to attach a 90 elbow to each vent to ensure no light leak via the vent opening.Quote:
Originally Posted by Malsor
Since you are doing a vertical light / grow, height is important but you should be fine with 6 feet. You will need to consider your strain (indica vs. stavia) and keep a handle of veg vs. flowering stretch. You can always LST your plants to maintain lower height although it's going to get crowded in that tent fast once you start bending the plants.
I can leave it 7' tall so thats not a problem. How far away should I keep the light away from the plants since its vertical and in a cool tube? As for veg, can I use the same setup just with the MH bulb?Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsby
mark off each square foot section, keep the plants in the center of those marked off areas.
I would recommend letting your plants grow about 2 feet, then flowering. Use the MH all the way through, trust me, you'll love the results, way more than what you'd get from an HPS. There's pretty much equal yielding with this method, but the MH makes for more potency. :)
Yea? MH all the way? How does it make it more potent? Sounds interesting....I'll look into that, I heard plants grow triple in size once started flowering which means if I veg until they are 2' when their adults they will be 6' tall! If I make at least one ounce per plant I'm happy, especially if I can grow 8 at once.Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune