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So has anyone figured out what is going on with the leaves? It is a problem for me as well, and I can't get a handle on it:mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
My problem comes right after changing to 12 hrs. the exact same look of the leaves
Daddy
My best guess for me was to fix my airflow problem and cut back a bit on my nutrients. Since then, the damage hasn't made much of any further progress.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddynobucks
Comparatively speaking, the blue-dominant dual-band lights are making a frostier plant versus the more balanced panels, and the strain is the same - Hindu Skunk.
nice pics, espacialy the 2nd 1.
Yea yea yea, I've been slacking on this one. I've just been letting it cruise while I handle other stuff.
TWO WEEKS TO GO!
Looking sticky!
I just tuned in today on what you're doing. Looks great so far. I have been working with 300w LED Panels for a year now and I am enjoying the results. I have evolved to the point of putting them on Light Track 5's and move 4 - 300w LED panels over a 4'x8' tray about an inch above the canopy (sometimes touching). If you're interested I will show you pics of the great results. I also had a similar problem with the leaves bleaching out, it turned out to be a nutrient lock out. I remedied it with an amazing product called Sea Green.
I have been using many different panels with different color combinations, so I am very interested in your blue dominate experiment. I am working with a new company that will make me any combo I want so I'd like to learn any color advice you may have.
With 4 300w panels, I don't see why you'd put them on the light mover instead of having each 300w panel cover a 4x2 area over the tray and save yourself some power and heat by eliminating the light mover. Actually, I'm just using 120w over a 4x2 area and doing rather well.
Trichome production is controlled by blue light and partially by genetics. Trichomes are produced partially as a protective response against damaging EM radiation starting at around 460nm and dropping into the UV range. If you want something for hash, you're going to want LOTS of blue, approximately 60% of the panel will need to be of blue wavelengths. Supplement that with only 660nm red for inducing flowering during 12/12 and you're good to go.
Harvested and dried - weigh-in at:
14.1g. I expected more like 10g with the stress I put these plants through, though it will likely be about 10g once the stems are removed. So from 30w total LED I got a half-ounce before de-stemming and curing. For those that prefer it, that's just under .5g/w with the most basic nutrient solution for feeding.
Trichome density is pretty nice. I'll try a rig to get a good close-up, but no guarantees. There are many more trichomes versus the stuff under the quad-band prototype.
...wow.
I had a particular blend of spectrae in mind when I started planning the LED I'd really like to have, and you may have just forced me to reconsider the balance!
Was planning on something like 50% 660nm, 10% 630nm, 10% 610nm, 20% 460nm, and 5% 'full-ish' spectrum white, with 5% in the far red @ 720nm... trying to mimic the curve that the plants seem to like.
NOW, I gotta figg'r out how I'm gonna squeeeeeze a lot more blue in there, as well as some UV/'short blue'...
You've just complicated my plans, tho wonderfully! I was also thinking of throwing in some RGB tricolours, with a way to dial the individual R, G, and B up as needed (the G would mainly be for viewing the garden in 'nighttime' without waking up the babies).
Where would you recommend me sourcing the various colours, khyberkitsune? Looking for mostly 1w emitters, and 20 or 30 degree spread on them, for penetration.
Your gardens rock, mon! :thumbsup:
Most 1w emitters aren't going to have 20-30 degree beam without reflection cups. The typical natural emission angle for good 1w diodes is minimum 60 degrees.
If you're going to go blue-heavy, ignore 610nm, and 630nm, typical RGB diodes are poorly matched for emissions (they're meant more for display purposes than horticulture,) and UV isn't worth much, you get the same effect just by going heavier on the 460nm light. Far red is only usable in combination with 660-670nm radiation and only when it's far-red in the 720-740nm range to stimulate the Emerson effect for enhanced photosynthesis, but even that isn't necessary as the blue light will help handle that job as well.
Mouser.com should be able to help you find what you want.