Trimming for a higher Yield
Closed-minded or not, stress in the flower room is a bad idea. I've been doing this for a couple of years, and rarely do I put my reputation on the line by giving false information. I'm a firm believer in using sound horticultural technique over "it worked for me before" statements.
I see many more people overwatering, than I see underwatering. Habitual overwatering will cause roots to cease all uptake. (nutrients and moisture) The leaves start to yellow, (like a ph issue without the claw) then they get the brownish spots, then they die. Then there's the stunting as the photosynthesis comes to a screeching halt. That's when the roots start smelling like low-tide in Newport Beach as they rot away.
Most in here would rather learn proper technique, but it's your game. Play it as you see fit. :jointsmile:
Trimming for a higher Yield
Trimming can not give a higher yield, that is just an illusion.
If the leaves yellowing in early flowering that more looks like you couldn't fully take care of that strain, not the strain itself.
Half of the leaves i saw in the previous picture had still green colors on them. Even they are yellow, if the plant is not letting them go means still using them.
Leaves don't use plants energie, leaves give energy.
This is like growing a tomato and eating the fruits when they're ready. First you feed the tomato plant to produce the tomato. When ready, tomato feeds you. Even if tomato gets bad in time you can still eat if you're starving, and it won't kill you. Tomato can be brown outside but if you open it up you can still find something to eat in there. Only thing you see is from outside of the leaf. You can't know whats in there. Plant knows. :weedpoke:
All my thoughts. Not scientific. Emotional.
Trimming for a higher Yield
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
Closed-minded or not, stress in the flower room is a bad idea. I've been doing this for a couple of years, and rarely do I put my reputation on the line by giving false information. I'm a firm believer in using sound horticultural technique over "it worked for me before" statements.
I see many more people overwatering, than I see underwatering. Habitual overwatering will cause roots to cease all uptake. (nutrients and moisture) The leaves start to yellow, (like a ph issue without the claw) then they get the brownish spots, then they die. Then there's the stunting as the photosynthesis comes to a screeching halt. That's when the roots start smelling like low-tide in Newport Beach as they rot away.
Most in here would rather learn proper technique, but it's your game. Play it as you see fit. :jointsmile:
I'm not at all trying to offer false information, nor am I concerned about a reputation. I am simply stating what works for me and what I have seen personally. Some people just like to know what others are doing. Thanks for the comments though, I don't get offended by others information.:thumbsup:
Trimming for a higher Yield
Under lights I trim all the little crappy braches that aren worth a dam only in the first week of bloom . I shape mine to where i have four main braches ,each same height and main colas. Power goes straight to those upper braches and i end up with nothing but big ballons on top! I gues they call it lolly poping , i call it not waisting my time on the shit underneath that isnt worth a dam. My nugs do get bigger this way ,but as far a fan leaves i always leave em on ....
Trimming for a higher Yield
Quote:
Originally Posted by biggmac4
...i call it not waisting my time on the shit underneath that isnt worth a dam...
The plant calls it stealing portions of it's nutrient storehouse, and will likley call it an injury that will need more energy to heal. It will also call this stressful, depending on how much you trim, and when. Stress causes a myriad of issues including but not limited to, stunting.
I've heard the argument over and over. "trimming the undergrowth diverts the nutrients and energy to the other parts of the plant..." Ok...but you just cut-off the storehouse that would provide that energy and removed those (already processed) nutrients necessary to heal and resume 'normal' growth. So please provide a biological foundation or principle concerning annuals on how is this helpful...?
I do a lot of topping and re-vegging, and can gurantee I add extra time for the ladies to heal. If you push the ladies too hard, they push back.
Any "Screen of Green" gardeners out there wish to add anything...?
(a goal-specific technique often cited in these debates)
Trimming for a higher Yield
Those lower popcorn size bud sites are an excellent place to dab pollen and make seeds; while keeping the rest sensi...IMO
Trimming for a higher Yield
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Pimp
Those lower popcorn size bud sites are an excellent place to dab pollen and make seeds; while keeping the rest sensi...IMO
That's a good point.
Some can go against like "Plant will focus on seed production and that can lower the yield" :p
