'Redline's LED - DiY - Build' aka"GROW LIGHT"

Ok guys and all you DiYers, I was gonna try too make a general summary of the LED light build. Basically your first step is todo
research! lots of it!
the second step would be too pick your bulb!
I have done a bunch of research and i have picked my bulb.
I will be using the 660nm 5watt from LedEngin as I believe the Bulb is superior for plants.I do believe LedEngin has done research on it before they stamped it HORTICULTURE.
http://www.ledengin.com/products/5wLZ/LZ1-00R205.pdf
I think am going to start with 15 of them. @ $11ea.
step 3 pick your power supply
the GE TETRA LED ballast will do
Tetra 24V LED Ballast - eBay (item 140205734426 end time May-08-08 10:55:14 PDT)

another possibilty is the 60watt advance driver
(1) Advance Xitanium 60W 12V LED ELCTRNC Driver 120VAC - eBay (item 130194126839 end time Apr-27-08 21:48:56 PDT)

and there is also the Osram 50watt driver
Osram Optotronic 50W LED Power Supply - eBay (item 140155558019 end time May-03-08 14:41:57 PDT)

ok so basically what we have going is 2 types of DiY lights
the one type being a single light fixture that plugs into the wall running approx 50watt to 75 watt.(internal ballast)

the second type using a power supply like the 180watt in redline's
picture.this style is just like the current HPS & MH setup's were the light fixture plugs into the ballast.(external ballast)

step 4 would be to build your power circuit.
this is a little bit far ahead for me ,,seeing how I haven't recieved my LEDS yet or power supply. and redline hasn't gotton the first
660nm running yet so not sure about HEAT!! and heatsinking.

I want to keep this light build simple and easy ,, using name brand cheap stuff that everyone can get ahold themselves ;)

redline you are having trouble with the copper and putting threads in it? aluminum has thread problems too all soft metals
do. i just battled the aluminum threads in the T5 i made and won!
maybe you can drill a whole all the way thru the heatsink and use a skinny bolt instead of screw!! I can't really say ,,gtg bbl

Hey veggii;

Thanks for pulling out Redlines build(s) into a new thread.
I'm old and get confused easily....you just sorted some things out for me, I appreciate it.

I sorta have 1/2 your light. My bloom "bulb" set-up has 8-alum PCB strips 24" L w/ 10 Red cree xr LEDs. Total 160watts of light plus a seperate 180watt 28volt power supply. Looks just like the PS Redline showed in a picture, except mine cost about 10X more, or well.

I grow SOG, RW 3-stage, Hydro drip to waste, bloom in a modified GI Grow 144 site rotating garden.

Since I need 360degree light output, (not LED strong point!) I used an aluminum extrusion in an octagon shape 4" flat to flat w/ 2" flats. Hence the 8-LED strips...one for each flat. Since I had a failed "warm white" experiment and because I thought maybe I lacked 660nm red, I used 8-2ft T5 HO fluros, full spectrums, again one per flat on the alum extrusion. The fluros end caps are flush mounted and the ballasts are thermal epoxied inside extrusion. The whole thing fits inside the 6" boroscilcate glass tube. Replaced a 600w HPS with 192wfluro/160w LED, has equal or better performance. First grow with it averaged .2gram/plant site more then I had ever gotten w/strain and .3gr/plt then last time run w/ HPS. Finished a few days sooner, but too many variables there, so can't say it was the light.

Oh, Veggii; thanks also for mentioning that Physicsnole has TWO projects over there..........I was trying to figure out why he was going high-power LED into a PC case. HeHe now it makes sence.

-oldmac

Veggi,
Trust me about the copper, It is mucho harder then aluminum. I could not go more then an 1/8 turn on a tap without having to back it out and about 1/2 turn without taking it out and cleaning it.
Of course lube didn't help a bit.
OldMac, I would like to see some shots of your construction, sounds interesting.

I am currently constructing an 8x2 area for LED color experiments. Right now am trying to get enough clones going to populate it and get lights built.
It will be chopped up into four 2x2 areas.
Area 1: Traditional royal blue and red only like all the commericial units. 30/70 ratio.
Area 2: Cool White and warm white, same 30/70 ratio

Area 3: The Kitchen sink, royal blue, blue cyan, warm white, cool white, neutral white, red and 660nm.

Area 4. Cool white for the low end and 630nms and 660nms for the high end.

Let me know if anyone has any ideas for other test areas?

how about one all 660 and one all royal blue

Physics,
You got it, Area #5. Any more requests?
I am anxiously awaiting your experiments on the pulsing to see how it pans out. I don't have either the physics or horticulture background to completely understand the theory behind pulsing.

Veggi,
I dont have instant messenger. I did send you an email at that hotmail address. Does that work?

redline yes that email is good i did'nt get your email tho maybe you typed it wrong everyone usually misses the underscore in my email addy ***[email protected] see underscore inbetween the 0 and @

ok now where was I oh yes the LED build
step 1 : research
step 2: pick bulb
step 3 : pick power source
step 4 : pick heatsink
step 5: design power circuit

I have decided to go with 15ea of ledengin 5watt 660nm
two strings of 7 bulbs getting 15 so I have 1 extra
using the GE Tetra ballast. both products are widely available
redline were you able to design the 660nm 7 bulb circuit yet?
there might be some help on the circuit here:
Starting Construction of a Light - Build Your Own - GreenPineLane

Veggi,
I just tried emailing you again.
Yes, I have design, 2 rows of 7. I will start out with a couple 3 ohm resistors and try to decrease resistance as much as possible depending on array thermal properties. I will post testing procedure.

I am going to try and have lamp finished by late today or tomorrow. I am having to do a yard/garage cleanup on my days off so that is taking a lot of time.

Do you have a 220 vac outlet close to your grow area?

Correction, I meant 240 VAC.