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ok thanks i pluked the tall one out and i lowered the lights to the blue cup plant to about 2 inches about hopes thats okay and im starting to see results already, it stopped grow by height and its working on the new nodes now. in the middle theres 2 small nodes popping out and i think its gonna move upward am i right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dankeybuds420
good take a pic of it so i can see it
here it is but i think it grew a bit taller. and 1 of the nodes that it sprouted with is fatter then the other what wrong with it?
HOLY SHIT SON, that thing is gonna fall over in a couple of days! I'd scrap the whole grow and restart:thumbsup:
and.................KEEP A FAN ON IT 24/7!
Meh, other than the stretch it's not bad. When it's big enough to transplant (probably 5 nodes in a pot that size) you'll just bury it up to the cotyledons.
Next time, you should probably add at least SOME perlite to the soil. It alone won't change the pH of your soil, and makes particularly damp potting soils drain better and allows for more oxygen to the roots.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
You need to learn! You can get an aquarium pH test kit from pretty much anywhere. They're inexpensive and will give you an idea where you stand. Know the pH of your fresh water, and know the pH of your soil by testing the runoff. As the plant gets bigger and you start using nutrients, the pH can change dramatically and potentially cause some huge problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
I don't remember you mentioning using a fertilizer, unless you mean what's already in your soil. If you're using a fertilizer, stop. Rate of application = amount of nutrients being used and frequency of application. (Once a week? Twice?)Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
Your most recent picture just shows a 20W CFL... you'll eventually need more blue spectrum lighting, even for one plant. You'll want to keep the light as close to the sprout as possible without causing it any heat stress. Too weak of a light being kept too far away is going to cause BAD stretching every time.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
What does that mean? Elaborate when giving details. You can't just generalize and expect people to know what you're thinking.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
Read through the FAQs. ALL of them... not just what pertains to you. The more you learn about the basics, the easier they'll become. It's not difficult to complete a successful grow, but you can't go into it on nothing but a whim and expect anything more than substandard results.
Sit down, roll a J if you've got it, and get lost in all the information that can be found on these servers. :jointsmile:
thanks stinky and clandestine. clandenstine, i already figured out how to test water ph and its normal for soil its 6.6 but how about soil ph? and imma add more lights soon enough
You want to keep the soil pH in the same area, I'm pretty sure that 6.4-6.8 is ideal... that's where I try to keep it. But expect it to change later on when you start adding things to your water, as I mentioned earlier, and know beforehand what to do when it happens. By keeping a close eye on pH, you can actually worry less about the specific levels of each individual container. If one plant is showing symptoms and the rest are thriving, then you've got a good starting point towards making a tailored diagnosis.Quote:
Originally Posted by weedcollecter123
oh ok how can i test my soil ph i bought something from an aquarium shop for water ph tests but dont know about soil