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I think it's just the heat retained in the bulb from the light filtering, but Wood's Glass and Quartz are UV transmissive and hard glasses (~borosilicate & Soda Lime Glasses) are UV absorptive, which is way standard hard glass outter envelopes block UV at least somewhat in standard bulb envelopes.
I'm sure the filaments run hotter on BLB bulbs the whole bulb seems to.
Running parallel BLB bulbs and gotta change allot.
Gotta run. Finish this one next time.
Take care, Sal.
Would you rather I wait till the end of march?.... Icmag is a no go for me also...Not a very nice place IMO.....Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
all graphs are from this site Spectrographic charts - CandlePowerForums[attachment=o236612] incandescent blacklight
[attachment=o236613] 117watt incandescent
[attachment=o236614]revel incandescent
[attachment=o236615]red incan rope light
[attachment=o236616]cfl blacklight [align=left][align=left][/align][/align]
using the "Rauber's Substitution Method" would it be best to add the ican blacklight to the clear incans to balance the 660 and 730 or is there a preferred ratio ???
[attachment=o236623]
[attachment=o236624]
[attachment=o236628]blue party bulb
[attachment=o236629]osram 2700k cfl 9 watts
[attachment=o236630]red party bulb
limited to 5 uploads per post the blue party bulb appears to have more 730nm than the red bulb!!!
No that's fine, TP's not asking that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogznova
I'd say No.Quote:
Originally Posted by seventhchild
Luckily Red Inc.'s alone and Clear Inc.'s alone provide a good ballance that is just a bit on the shady side of a Direct Sunlight spectrum, which is quite good for pigment synthesis, but it shifts to less desirable shady as is travels down paste the first layer of leaves.
Adding more Blacklight Inc.s (BLB's ~ Blacklight Blues) to the mix makes things shadier.
Adding Clear or Red Inc.'s to CFL's at a ratio of 1/3rd Watt Inc. per watt of CLF used, gives a more Redder than Direct Sunlight spectrum, which is actually better in my experience in general.
Preferred ratios, reveal the problem of personal preference on that one, but I prefer the Redder than Sunlight spectrums for Indoor light intensities compared to outdoor Direct Sunlight intensities.
"I was not sure of how to factor in all the visible light frequencies that come with." In general - Their Blue is fairly low and not that cristical if you already have a strong Blue signal, Far Red tends to act a bit more than Red.
Gott run again.
Sure I understand.. I would just like to make sure you can setup an account before I start a tread.. Just so I don't say something like "the master will be here to answer some questions" And then you not be able to get an account setup for what ever reason.. Thanks in advance for your time Sal.Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
Ya this is good info... I took out my red inc's and added clear halogen bulbs, Now I want to throw a few of the red inc's back in there.. I love a Redder than Direct Sunlight spectrum..LOL ....Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
I had not planned on using CFL'S . Do you suggest that ratio with HPS's? I am a little concerned about the lack of blue if I use an HPS/CLEAR INC combo......ok real damn nervous about it.......I've been using a MH to finish the crop for app 15 years,,,,,hard to let go.....anywho...should i be concerned about the lack of 420nm during flowering ??Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
[attachment=o236686] typical CFL
[attachment=o236687] typical incandescent
[attachment=o236688] HPS