Both the deformed and regular looking plan are bending up well. :thumbsup: so a couple more nodes imma tie em down again.
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Both the deformed and regular looking plan are bending up well. :thumbsup: so a couple more nodes imma tie em down again.
Found a bug on one of the little ones. Looked like it was brown and eating the bottom of the leaf. I took it off with a napkin and crushed it. I left my window open all night. So im hoping it was just that one bug in there and none got to my babies that are flowering!
Will post pics tomorrow. :hippy:
Get some mite remover just in case.
yea definetly try and find some neem oil just to be on the safe side :thumbsup: normly if theres 1, there will b more, in my experiences anyways:cool:
Where can i get that at?
Woke up htis morning with some discoloration on the one in the pot by it self.
Ive had a bad experience with fucking bugs!
all of those dead due to bugs ( i tossed em once the leafs turned to shit )
u gotta hydro store near u???? or u can get some insect soap at home depot bro. here this might help.....stolen. sorry. If your plants are growing vegetatively you have quite a few options. First you can wash them with a moderately vigorous spray to knock down the mite population. This will help the plants by lessening their loss of vital juices. Prepare a spray with a teaspoon of real soap such as Dr. Bronner's peppermint or eucalyptus liquid soap per gallon of water, or spray with Safer's horticultural soap to help dislodge and suffocate the pests. Mites are found on the underside of the leaves and must be sprayed there. If the plants are small or easy to handle it might be easier to dip them in the soapy water. Spraying can remove most but not all the mites, and it doesn't remove the eggs.
A small mite infection left unchecked is a temporary condition. So it is unwise to go into flowering with infected plants. The problem is that after the plants are one third of the way through flowering, two to three weeks, you want to avoid spraying with water or soapy water to wash off the suckers.
Mites must be eliminated before forcing or when they attack plants in the early stages of flowering. If not they will multiply with disastrous results. The skimpy buds will be low quality and covered with dead mites. It's not an enjoyable smoke.
Spraying can be used to control mites through the vegetative stage and for the first two or three weeks of flowering. However, other means must be used to get the plants to the zero tolerance level. By far the easiest method is to use an acceptable miticide.
There are several commercial miticides that can be used early in the season to kill mites.
Pyrethrum has been used to kill mites. It is a natural pesticide produced by a close relative of the chrysanthemum. The problem with using it is that many races of mites have developed immunity to it. However, it is the first miticide you should try.
Cinnamite comes as a concentrate that is diluted and sprayed on the plants. It contains a miticide derived from cinnamon oil. It is very safe and is rated least hazardous. It is quite effective but it doesn't kill the eggs. It should be used every three days for two weeks to make sure all the mites are killed soon after they hatch. It is a contact spray so plants should be dipped or sprayed on the leaf undersides. It is also effective against powdery mildew.
Neem oil is a natural miticide derived from the nuts of the Neem tree, which is found in India. It is a mite repellent as well, so some gardeners use it as a prophylactic, spraying it on a weekly basis. I mix neem oil with Cinnamite to eliminate small infections. Cinnamite and neem oil are also used against powdery mildew.
For growers who distrust anything commercial, try an ?herbal tea? that acts as a miticide. To each quart of water use a tablespoon each of ground cinnamon, ground clove and 2 tablespoons of ground Italian seasoning. Heat the mixture until it starts to simmer, then turn off the heat. Add 2 tablespoons crushed fresh garlic when the water cools to warm. Let the tea sit until it cools. Strain and save the water using a cloth or coffee filter. Add a few drops of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid to the water. It is ready to be sprayed on the leaf undersides. After spraying the mites off with water, spray it on the leaf undersides. It will eliminate the mites if it is sprayed every three days after the wash. Within two weeks the mites will probably be gone.
Avid is a miticide registered for ornamental plants. Its active ingredient is abamectin, a derivative of a toxin originally found in soil bacteria. Avid is not registered for use on vegetables except in certain restricted situations. Other brands of abamectin such as AgriMek by Syngenta are registered for a wide range of crops. The AgriMek label calls for a minimum of a seven day wait between application and harvest. I wouldn't use marijuana if I knew it was treated with this pesticide during the last few weeks of flowering.
Some gardeners have reported success controlling mites using predatory mites or other predators. These carnivorous mites reach an equilibrium with the herbivorous mites, keeping damage to a bare minimum. I have tried introducing mixed species of predatory mites a few times but have never been satisfied with the results. They did not get the problem under control. However, they can work and some gardeners swear by them. I probably didn't provide them with the right conditions. There are also other predators that eat mites, but I have no experience using them.
Ultimately, the solution to the mite problem and the pest problem in general is to prevent the garden from becoming infected. Following certain simple rules will help:
Wear freshly washed clothes or change into a garden outfit when going into the garden.
good luck bro
Fortunately I dont have mites! Just a stupid beetle of some kind im sure.
That tea stuff though i might try out. I think I have all the stuff for it.
Thanks truepunk for all the info
:S3: lol funny smiley
Leaves on the bottom on one of my plants that are flowering has some dieing leaves on the bottom of it and the leaves after the ones that are dying are browning. Other plant, same strain just shorter, doesnt have any of these problems.
Here are the pics... Advise needed!:(
here......this always helps me .... Cannabis Nutrient DisordersQuote:
Originally Posted by TheBudReaper
Thanks truepunk for the link bro.
No one is really posting on this thread. Ill post pics in a couple months to wrap this thread up
Fantastic grow, Love to take you up on your offer. Iv curently got ak47, budda cheese and ultimate, but the uk cheese is the one iv had and been dying for
So they are about 2 and a half weeks into flowering. Im planning to reveg one of em into a momma. So itl be a little bit before i can start making clones. But keep in touch with me. Do you have pics of your plants?
just started a grow log,
http://boards.cannabis.com/grow-log/...ther-grow.html
were abouts are you in uk.
I live in Cali. I got my two clones from a club down here
cali as in usa? as cant find a cali in uk
Yeah california!
Buds and leaves around em are starten to get really frosty!
Plucked out 2 males outa the 3 bag seed plants. Glad i caught em right when i noticed it. :thumbsup: No seeds in my weed bro:jointsmile:
**UPDATE** DAY 25
This is what it looked like on day 20
now present day
looking good:thumbsup:
Thanks dude. Im trying to find some more lights to buy. And im learning alot about the basics of lighting. This grow was never ment to yeild or be bomb. But just to really see hands on what its like to grow and what ill need for the future to make it that much better:)
added two more CFL's .. Total of 6 27 watt. 1,750 lumen. 5000k
2 42 watt 2,600 lumen. 2700k
1 19 watt. Dont know ext amount of lumens.
6 x 1750 = 10,500 lumens
2 x 2600 = 5,200
=____________________
15,700 lumens
The lights could be closer. Im growing in a closet but my plants are on one side . Id say about 1 1/2 ft. x 2 x 7ft.
So about 6,000 lumens per square foot about?
ever thought of using t5s? I was growing with 2 3ft 2bulb t5s, and 4 23w CFLs, that's all I had in my veg cabinet, and would grow ~4 in 1 gal pots and ~6 in solo cups. I got my t5s from HomeDepot or Lowes, not sure which, only thing I'm not too excited about was the spectrum, 3500k, but they still worked( and are still working today ) So I until I get the funding for some HighOutput 2700k, I'll use the bulbs they came with.
Just something to think about because the CFLs produce a little more heat than the t5s. and the t5s cover more area.
Yeah ive looked up a bunch of stuff for t5 lighting.
I just need the cash! I would love to keep up CFL growing and not just get an HPS ( for now ).
Forgot in last post. im also using 2x 15 watt tube fluros for under lighting. Want to get those pop corn buds a little bigger!:D
The lst'ing on the plant thats about a week into flowering is going well.
Hopefully on week 5 the buds on the main cola will be connected. I hear this is a 9 week flower strain. So thats what im going to do!
Looking good bro. Doing a fine job. I think u getting the hang of it:thumbsup:
Yeah next grow will be tons better!
But stay tuned as this one is not quite finnished!
Right before week 4:wtf: Looken aight i guess
:wtf::wtf::wtf:
Trimmed the smaller popcorn nugs at the bottom of each plant. Hopefully this will make the buds at the top grow bigger. maybe 5 nodes per plant
im glad you got some more lighting in there...Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBudReaper
dude i went to lowes and built my own mini HPS its a 70watter but i bet you could benefit from have it in your cab...
the link is in my sig...and i explained how i made it pretty good. cost about 40-50 bucks, add it in with your CFLs, might get a better yield, atleast some red spectrum, i see your using all cool white CFLs, get some warm ones for flowering.
i dont know, keeping it simple and ghetto is the way to go, and build on it every grow, its fucking addicting man haha
actually if you dont wanna run through all my pages
Grow Marijuana FAQ, Cannabis cultivation - marijuana growing tips & photos
theres the link to the instructions i used...i didnt put the bulb socket in a lil box like they did...
good luck, dont forget to check on my first 400w growcab in my sig too
T5's are a really good choice for small areas where heat is an issue. They run really cool and you can place them really close to the plants. CFL's actually put out quite a bit of heat and if you have 10 or so in your grow cab, Its probably comparable to the heat of of HPS bulb.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBudReaper
If you have the money, i would make the investment ito t5's. Your could also drop your CFL's down the side for additional side lighting. Mixing the spectrum by giving it 6500k abd 2700k bulbs should also bring out a little more resin during flower.
Yeah. I start school soon. So im gunna get alot of grant money. Im gunna hook it up next grow!:thumbsup:
today is week four day two
Damn that is some good info you linked up. I for sure will come back to that .. Thanks oturbojoeo4o!Quote:
Originally Posted by oturbojoeo4o
I just rapped up my 1st grow. I purchased and used:
(six) CFL Sunlite Daylight, 85watt/350watt, 6500k, 4200 lumen
(eight) CFL Sunlite Warm White, 105 watt/400watt, 2700k, 5000 lumen
10 clamp on light fixtures
I use an aero-hydro grow system. Looking forward for more photos of your grow, good luck
its all about helpin each other out and tokin up at the same time...Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBudReaper
what are you in school for...i got grants that covered almost half my tuition...plus i got financial aid that was over my remaining balance...so ill have like 3k to play with...and i get 10 years to pay it off lol
new growtent and hyrdo setup here i come! thanks obama
throw up a grow log harley! i wanna see you hydrosetupQuote:
Originally Posted by faderharley
Il get some pics up soon. Im taken computer programing, spanish, college prep, and water coloring! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
mas mota por favor...Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBudReaper
my mom side lives in el salvador... they own a pharma company...make all kinds of medicines
i wonder how good bud will grow outdoors there :)