Be a shame to waste her.
Take her for a ride in the country.
Find her a nice clearing in the forest.
Introduce her to real sunlight.
And set her free!
If she's truly yours, she'll wait for your return.:jointsmile:
Aloha Mom.:D
Weeze
Printable View
Be a shame to waste her.
Take her for a ride in the country.
Find her a nice clearing in the forest.
Introduce her to real sunlight.
And set her free!
If she's truly yours, she'll wait for your return.:jointsmile:
Aloha Mom.:D
Weeze
Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner Mother, tried several times yesterday but was apparently running into server problems.
I'm pretty sure what we are seeing is UV triggering at the start of your Red LED PAD schedule, which works the same way as Blue triggerring would if i occured at that time.
The plants are just as UV sensitive as they are Blue light sensitive and may trigger at radiance levels as low as 1/5th Watt per Square Foot of monochromatic radiation if it appears between the 280 to 520nm band.
Detecting UV contamination is a little more tricky than detecting visible Blue light contamination. What I do is expose phosphors with some Blue emission directly to the LED (and other) radiation and observe the phosphor looking through a Blue filter. If UV is present the phosphor will emit some Blue light that is visible through the Blue Filter, which blocks out the Red.
I assumed you would not be getting this problem since it did not appear before as a symptom.
*****
I'm also assuming that your 4/9/11 schedule follows the Dark sequence of SID then Red PAD, and not Red PAD then SID. If you are using PAD then SID that would be the problem most likely and if so you should switch to SID then PAD.
*****
UV from Red and other LEDs -
With the demand for higher output LEDs and especially with the popularity of the Dogma that UV increases potency, LEDs producing seconday UV emissions are being manufactured and marketted for plant growth and they are appearing on the market.
Part of the situation is that the best emitting LED us "Clearlake" cases which do not filter out UV. The Red cases, used to color correct the outputs of cheaper LEDs, usually contain filter pigments that do block these UV emissions.
If this is the problem it is easily corrected by using some form of UV blocking material that doesn't block Red (or Far Red).
I use transparent Red or Yellow plastic filters (Reds are a better bet), but carbonate materails are probably the most available to the average person. Carbonate greenhouse materials are available with clearly stated UV blocking characteristics. Nylon doesn't block UV and it's fairly easy to distinguish Nylon from carbonate materials, since clear Nylon is brittle and breaks/shatters easily when you bend it, while Carbonate tends to crease/pull/distend rather than break.
Borosilicate glass blocks some UV, but not as good as Carbonate.
Camera shops can order UV filters, but they tend to be more pricy.
(I'll try to get one more related post in before risk more server issues).
Sal.
Mother, the symptoms your plants are displaying indicate that the your 11 hours of SID time are then running into a Blue/UV trigger and that the remaining 9 hours of Red PAD are triggering as PAL instead.
The single bladed leaves, alternate phyllotaxy, and elongation type growth habit are most often observed as preflower by grower turning their timers down to 12/12 by increasing the hours of Darkness used by 1/2 to 1 hour per week, and observed as revegging by growers turning their timers "back up" to reverse the plant from flowering to vegging.
Although slowed grow is one of the indicaters of early/pre - flowering, it is also a symtom of "Rauber's Disease" (AKA Hyperchlorophyllic Anemia, anemia -from Ancient Greek ἀναιμία anaimia, meaning "lack of blood"). This is the reason Red (and some other) LEDs have such a bad reputation for plant growth. Spectrums with Time Factors above 2.0 show this poor growth. This can be corrected with the popular solution of adding Far Red, but as you concluded it takes higher wattages of Incandescent and/or Wide Spectrum fluorescents to counter the levels output of LEDs, especially the 660nm Red LEDs (the one everyone seems to be trying to sell us all).
I assumed at first that you were using a spectrum set-up with a time factor arround 5 in order to reduce preflower/earlyflower stem elongation, but I also have stated that I increase the use of Far Red (in your type of application) as stem elongation decreases as flowering continues (assuming the timing schedule is correct), which means I change the spectrums to lower the Time Factor as the plants elongation characteristic decreases (in order to increase the growth rate). Following the plants behavior I take the Time Factor down to about 1.6 as flowering continues and in the final stages of flowering just before harvest I take the Time Factor down as far as 1.3 .
Gotta run.
Take Care Sal.
The question is... How does one get there time factor to 1.6 then to 1.3?Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
Hey Sal! Yes, my schedule is using Red PAD after "daylight" and before SID. I would switch it around, but I just don't have room or time (I'm moving) to grow the plant out from where it is. I really like Weez's idea :thumbsup: but that's not really a workable idea where I live. :( It would be a beautiful plant to flower out though :D :D :D
As always Sal, thanks for your help and education and I'm glad I could learn some more before Halloween. ;)
Using (the slower) Red PAD after "daylight" and before (the faster) SID, slows down the process during which the trigger that begins the plants measurement of the Night duration.
I mentioned your situation to Rauber and he commented that if the plants were still in veg when put on your current schedule that the grow rate slow down could cause the plants to appear to freeze in the middle of the changeover between vegging and flowering, which also looks like the changeover between flowering and veg as I mentioned before.
Please note that the slowdown in growth appears (for lack of a simpler descriptive term) to be exponential rather than linear. If it were exponential I'd personally say it appears to the third power rather than just squared.
Oddly enough this accursed growth slow down is just what people are always wishing for when they run into early flower stem elongation.
The amount of Red Incandescent it takes, to get the Time Factors down more and more as flowering continues, is large (I've gone up to 5 times the wattage of the LEDs I used), but it is offset somewhat by the high efficiency of LEDs and it does offer the ability to change these ratios at will, provided you can set the timing schedule to keep your equivalent SID time basically the same.
The good news is that Rauber's method not only improves on the overall efficiency, but also allows for the ability to turn the growth (elongation) rates up and down in the same manner (not to mention the as yet unmentionable other benefits... ...Come on Halloween!).
We really appreaciate all the trials you've endured Mother. Thanks for being so patient.
One benefit of this apparent growth freeze, is that the plants clock is still executing and sending out the normal accumulating population of mRNA messages building up in the plants tissues, and after the plant's regular (3 to 14 day) period of going into bloom, by turning the growth rate back up, you get the plant to go into flower with a minimum increase in (vertical) size.
Good luck with the move.
Take Care, Sal.
What kind of timers are you using?
What are their accuracy (30 min, 15 min, 1 min) and what are their minimum durations/intervals (45 min, 30 min, 15 min, 1 min )?
Can any of them perform 4 or more complete on/off cycles per day?
It'll help at this end.
Take Care, Sal.
Hi Sal, I'm using a pretty standard 15-minute increment timer, I've attached a picture for you. I don't know what the accuracy is, but I'd guess 3 minutes or so, if I set it carefully.
I had to cut my plant. I'm moving and it simply wasn't transportable. I hope my short grow was informative to others, I learned from it. :thumbsup:
I'm excited about the coming few months! :D
Hit submit too soon there... :jointsmile:
What kind of schedule would you suggest? I can muster up a few of these timers if needed... I'm very interested in a four-complete cycle 24-hour period... ;)
For what it's worth I picked up a 15A Digital timer at my local Ace Hardware store, so I think it's safe to say that they are generally available.
These timers are the direct replacement for the one Mother shows. I think I paid maybe $15-20 USD each. They are accurate to 1 minute and can handle something like 225 on/off cycles per week.
:twocents:
M.P.
I'm not sure what you mean by "a four-complete cycle 24-hour period".Quote:
Originally Posted by Mother
Do you mean 4 separate timer schedules for your 4 separate light sources (spectrums)?
Sal... I think she was responding to what you wrote in your other post... "Can any of them perform 4 or more complete on/off cycles per day?" :thumbsup:
Yup, that's what I was talking about. You read my mind, Dog. :-)
Sal: I guess I should back up on my assumptions ;), and ask, how would being about to complete 4 on/off cycles in a 24-hour period help at the end?
Mother, my first responce to your comment was to think of stepping the spectrums at least at Nightfall, in order to hasten or delay the Nightfall process. After looking at last quarters pile of data, I'm still realling a bit and feeling sort of overwhelmed by it all. My rist has been laming my brain a bit lately to.
As per our question about using four cycles, it primarily has to do with changing the gene time used and/or the energy used for a duration or even a interval process.
For instance leaving the Blue signal on while while trimming one of the other spectrums here or there, reduces the energy input while maintain the Blue schedule unchanged. This would be more for energy concervation than reducing stem elongation in one such application.
Two of the flowerings I just went back and looked over had the same basic schedule that you just used, but they used less than half the energy to achieve the stem elongation slow down during pre- or early flower. In these two examples the number of cycles was not changed but the synchronizing between them was alterred to tune the plant percieved Darkness duration. The schedules were changed (minimally) 4 times, one for vegging, one for early flower, one for bloomiong and one for finishing/ripenning.
As far as suggestions, I can take you too far forward at the moment (I asked), but I can take you a bit laterally.
Although it results in a bit of subcanopy stem elongation, I would suggest that you consider using more Incandescent. Even if you used nothing but a regular clear Incandescent for your Blue signal, the increased tip elongation would provide you with enough new tip growth to observe the changes in morphology (leaf/flower formation) to know what the results of your Darkness schedule are, new growth wise.
Also during this preflower phase, you could reduce the amount of LED wattage used and still similar results, and if you are using Red Inc.'s during the Darknesss interval, reducing the Red LED wattage could give better results, but the timer would have to be reset to adjust to the gene clock speed increase.
I know what a shock the growth slow down can be, but if you can hold on till Halloween, I'm sure you will see what fruit this beastly thing ultimately bore.
Dog, I just reread you question about Reducing the Time Factors, sorry I didn't answer that one as I had thought.
To reduce the Time Factors lower than that of the Red Incandescents you're using, you can exchange one for a Incandescent Blacklight or even dim the Red Inc.'s. There are other options, but I'm limited in that direction at the moment. (Don't worry Dog, even you will have some surprises coming).
As always consider what changes in the timer might have to be made if you change the spectrum.
Personally-
Less than three months to go and I can't wait for some time to brain chill when it's over.
Some interesting news, I've been sellecting stock in my Low Haze breeding project, but now Rauber is calling it LED Haze since the seeds where bred using Rauber's methods and there are no current plans for using any other method for breeding the next generation, making this a LED bred strain. I should be making the next Inbred generation within a month. I'm hoping this will turn out to be a nice strain for LED, HPS and outdoor tests.
I hope that coverred it all.
Take care, Sal.
Sal I can't wait till Halloween.Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
We currently are getting good results with 10 hours of PAL lighting using 210w of cfl's and a 100w clear halogen inc and a 400w hps setup. We run the cfl's and the clear halogen inc for the first half of the blue day and then we run the hps only for the second half of the day. After the first two weeks of flowering are over we start to use 4 hours of red PAD lighting for a 14on 10off type of schedule. This seems to work great for us. Produces some fine hash bud. Thanks for your help :thumbsup:
Just to clarify the above statement...
The first two weeks of flowering we use a standard 12/12 schedule. Then we use a 4/10/10 schedule..
Whew. Been testing samples and this enhanced THC thing is starting to feel like work, so Rauber told me to take a breather after a weeks testing. I hate to say it, but I'm kinda relieved to be able to take a break.
Dog, initially a few of the other Beta's preferred 12/12 to start flowering, which is not surprising considering the drastic slow down demonstrated by some of the introductory experiences, as Mother's posts show.
Glad to hear things are developing nicely for you Dog. Gotta love those Trich's.
But (take heart Mother), refinements to the process have helped take the shock out of this early flower technique, by providing a limited amount of growth for the sake of the observers nerves and the ability to observe the progression of flowering developement.
Mother, don't get too worred about multiple cycle schedules for early flower schedules, two cycles (one Day, one Night) are plenty if they are dialed right. Rauber wondered why I was discussing using four cycles, and the truth is I was just trying to distinguish between removable pin timers and push/pull pin timers (the removable pin timers seize/jam at durations under 45 minutes).
One of the main functions that we manipulate, for the initial flowering Day duration turn down, is to reduce the total number of gene clock ticks per complete Day cycle in order to reduce overall stem elongation. Everything else being equal, stem elongation is directly proportional to metabolism or number of gene clock ticks (gene time).
We also limit photosynthetic activity to slow elongation at this turn down stage. The difference is that we limit photosynthetic input with a higher utilization of input energy, as opposed to what you've just observed, which is primarily limited by low utilization of a higher input energy.
Break time's over. -Back to stone mines. (Ever notice that it's difficult to maintain objectivity when you're higher than a kite!)
Take care, Sal.
This is an understatement IMO. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
Sal....Back in the day (LOL) when my uncle and I used a standard 400 watt HPS 12/12 type of flowering. We could get this Diamond we have to get a slight hash taste to her after about 10 weeks of flowering. Now using 4 hours of PAD lighting and 10 hours of slightly altered PAL lighting we can get this Diamond to scream a sweet blond hash taste in 8 weeks flat. Plus I think my uncle and I only have this method about 60% to 70% correct. IMO we still have alot to learn.. It's been a fun 8 or so months...
Ya we've been using some of the blue light you suggested on the PAL side in the first two weeks of flowering to combat stretching and still trying to maintain some good speed. It works but I still got a lot to learn.. Can't wait till Halloween.Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
Long time no see, mother, dog, shake, weez, sal, hope you all had a good year. Anyone see anything about the halloween publication about martian method? Maybe I'm missing it, but I searched around a bit, so a link would be appreciated :)
Still wondering, here ya go:
"Rauber Enhancement is the response between two saturating spectrum durations that occur within ninety minutes of each other, where the responses based on each time duration, rather than a response to an intermediate combination of the spectrum based on the wattages of the two spectrums." (from chapter 3 of â??Photosynthetic Articifial Darkness, Rauber Enhancement, and Rauber Enhanced PAD. 1st Edition AKA: The PAD Manual. Copyrighted 2009 Shawn Rauber, as a representative of Temporal Photonics and of the author, I have express rights to reproduce this citation of the authorâ??s copyrighted work.)
It may not sound like much, but it solves every gripe I ever heard about indoor lighting, and is a God Send to LED growers.
"PAD Manuals" will be available on eBay shortly they are currently converting from CD to paperback, due to a CD production flaw (resulting in a recall of the first batch of disks, disk will also be available in the future ~ slight delay).
Sorry for the delay, but I'm rolling with the random as it comes.
I should be back online regularly to answer your questions as best I can within the consent of the author.
Take Care, Sal.
The first press release and publication was a bust, the cheapo CD labels let loose (wrinkled, bubbled, separated), so the first batch of CD's was recalled with a hard copy release. Not the worlds most impressive entrance.Quote:
Originally Posted by farredeyed
A revamped CD may be out fairly soon, we are taking advantage of one delay to multitask some things, encryption, typesetting, etc.
I've tried posting links here they never work. This site seems not to allow links to other sites.
Since I should be arround more now, I should be able to nudge towards available copy sources as soon as can confirm them.
I'll be reviewing content from the 1st edition CD, but I can't post it in whole. In fact I can't even cut and paste from it due to graphic encryption.
And now I think it's time for a ton of questions, oh joy!
(Now the real fun starts!!!)
Take Care, Sal.
Good to see ya back, Sal
We were startin' to worry.
Aloha,
Weeze
Are you kidding me... After reading the PAD 1st edition I have a million ?'s..LOL :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
The first ? is..... When will timers be available? I need one ASAP
Hey, Sal--
Is there a typo in this sentence? :confused:Quote:
"Rauber Enhancement is the response between two saturating spectrum durations that occur within ninety minutes of each other, where the responses based on each time duration, rather than a response to an intermediate combination of the spectrum based on the wattages of the two spectrums."
I think it's supposed to read, "...where the responses are based on each time duration..."
But "...where the response is based on each time duration..." makes sense, too.
As it stands, the second part of the sentence needs a verb. (?)
If this is the final distillation of these research efforts I'd like to understand it correctly. :D
Thanks, Hermie :thumbsup:
Ya hermie... He missed a few words right there... Not sure if it was by design or not. I don't think it was. He's recovering from a broken wrist and since the PAD Manual is encrypted he has to hand type it to the forum and not simply copy and past it. So the typo is understandable. Good eye though. I'm sure he will fix it. I'm not authorized to post any of the copyrighted material so I can't fix it right now...:thumbsup:
It's nice to know that my title as typo king is still intact!
I concur. GOOD CALL. Thank you for catching that typo. I do make them and we do want to make this understandable (do I have a fun job or what). By all means site what seems off if you see it and I appreciate it.
Let me correct that one:
"Rauber Enhancement is the response between two saturating spectrum durations that occur within ninety minutes of each other, where the responses are based on each time duration, rather than a response to an intermediate combination of the spectrum based on the wattages of the two spectrums." (from chapter 3 of â??Photosynthetic Articifial Darkness, Rauber Enhancement, and Rauber Enhanced PAD. 1st Edition AKA: The PAD Manual. Copyrighted 2009 Shawn Rauber, as a representative of Temporal Photonics and of the author, I have express rights to reproduce this citation of the authorâ??s copyrighted work.)
Dog, you can find Inverters throu Grow Store outlets, but they may be called by other names such as "Flip Flop", "OFF Switchers" etc. As long as people aren't marketting them for our process, that's fine by us and as long as people don't use the process for over a square meter of grow space more power to you! We're only concerned about taking from us deliberately on a large scale, primarily by commercial users like large green house (~industiral use) use. We're pro home grower and 100% Pro Med User. (If you use it for two square meters and we aren't confronted by it commercially, why would we ever care!)
You can use two or three half hour or fifteen minute timers without an Inverter, but you have to make sure that the Far Red duration of one timer goes ON at or just BEFORE the (Red) PAD timers go OFF, and without an Inverter, any change in the synchronization can through the Rauber Enhanced PAD (REPAD) Time Factor (1/RATE) off, which can acts like your timer is off by up to hours not just half an hour as time lag piles up over hours of operating at the different Time Factor (1/RATE, ~Time Rate).
I've been pitching Rauber on just putting out CD's without labels. I think he'll go for it considering it's about information not CANDY WRAPPERS, but it's a sore topic after hearing one rattle inside a CD player like a Buzz Bomb (Heart Breaker).
In the mean time, just bear with me on bits and pieces.
I'll reread the last few posts to see if I missed anything.
Take Care, Sal.
How's the read on the manual going? (Great, horrible or Nightmare??)
I personnally hate what that encryption makes the fonts look like. It's getting fixed in the 2nd Edition and other than some expansion, the 2nd Editon will also have an index if all goes well.
Take Care, Sal.
Sal the reading is great.. I've read it at least 10 times..It caused me to change my mind about 660nm...I can tell you my uncle and I would have never figured out that timing arrangement...LOL.... But like I said, Since I now know more of the timing aspect of things. I do have a few questions. Although one of them I think you just answered for me in the previous post.... "Far Red duration of one timer goes ON at or just BEFORE the (Red) PAD timers go OFF".... So no (SID) gaps in between the two spectrums...Sweet I was going to ask this question.. All of my questions will be based on a 3x3 area since this is what my uncle uses, just so everyone knows.
1. Can the PAD far red be black light or dose it have to be 730nm LED? And how much PAD far red wattage is good for a 3x3 area? 1 60 watt black light or more?
Also can I ask questions about the Blue (on time) spectrums and the red (on time) spectrums?
My uncle has a few of those half hour interval timers on hand, The ones that have the half hour pins that are not removable. My uncle used them for a hydro drip system, half hour on half hour off kind of setup. I think the manual talks about using these kind of timers for the (PAD) Red and Far Red synchronization... On the hydro store front. I have seen these type of timers there... C.A.P. ART-DNe Adjustable Recycle Timer... but at $80 a piece at a minimum for one and we need two. I think I'll Waite for a TP timer. In the mean time we will be playing around with the cheep ol half hour pin type timers for sure.:thumbsup:
Yes, a SID gap after a Red duration start out acting like Red on time and then SLOWLY goes throu a transition to SID like behavior. And if that wasn't fun enough this kind of thing is sensitive to temperature, pH and secondary genetics.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogznova
In this .5/.5 example.
A (short) SID gap following Red acts similar to Red, effectively lengthening the Red duration and shortening the Far Red duration in terms of plant responce, making the plant go slower. The overlap in Red plus Far Red acts as a third mixed spectrum duration depending on wattages.
A (short) SID gap following Far Red acts similar to Far Red, effectively lengthening the Far Red duration in terms of plant responce while subtracting from the Far Red duration, making the plant go slower. The overlap in Red plus Far Red acts as a third mixed spectrum duration depending on wattages.
Small wonder we recommend Inverters rather than the lesser of these two evils.
Your other questions:
1. Yes, you can use Incandescent Blacklights for Far Red sources. How much wattage is determined by your canopy depth, but plant hight is the easiest thing to measure and use. Check the Intensity Chapter on Minimum Intensity recommendations it should cover it, but if it still isn't clear, post me and I'll review the chapter for you in my responce.
The other questions:
Blue spectrum data is provided to help growers understand "Day" lighting spectrums and is basically needed for secondary the photoperiodic timing considerations. I'm not quite sure what you mean by "(on time) spectrums", could you clarify that a bit so I can be a little specific. Not quite sure what the question was there (it'll probably come to me later).
Yep, those half hour timers are the most common kind, that's why we use them as a standard in the manual.
Those cycle timers on the other hand are an over price nightmare to use. Not recommended.
Take Care, Sal.
Hi sal.... Looking more closely at my copy of the PAD manual.. It looks like mine got cut short in the email. It stops at chapter 9 Advanced Rauber Enhancement Flowering.
I think my questions would be much more limited if I had chapters 10,11,12,13... Could you maybe resend those chapters to me in my email...Thanks:thumbsup:
BTW.. Great explanation on the SID gaps between the PAD red and far red spectrums...Thanks
Sal sorry.... I was able to find the other chapters.. I have to spend some time reading the rest.. I'm sure I will have some ?'s:thumbsup:
Ok here is the 1st edition of the PAD manual. You can find it at the Temporal Photonics page at MySpace . Just click on the pic link.. Here is the link Enjoy:thumbsup:
MySpace - Temporal Photonics - 17 - Male - CHICO, California - myspace.com/temporalphotonics
You can get to The 1st Edition PAD Manual pages by clicking on the "my pics" link in the main page that's jsut under the avatar area with the Temporal Photonics logo in it.
Take care, Sal.
i like the manual and pass on my thoughts to Rauber.. if he is reading then thanks has cleared up many questions. unfortunatly my head is pretty un-straight from lack of sleep and i dont think that all i am reading is sinking in.
-j
so i took the time to read the first log and what is of the second and i understand most of it as i understand light spectrum a bit but i grow in a small
cab that i built 2'lx2'wx2'dx3't and i run 4-65w 2700k at 4000lum a piece if i add a couple red cfl's an red inc's to the first half of my SID time in my cab will it keep my plants shorter and with fatter buds or no? will it speed up my grow time? it just intrigues me and would hope i could get the same results with a simpler approach but if i have too i will try the whole method in a separate cab it seems promising to me but i've only been growing indoors for a couple seasons as i used to live farther south and grew outdoors for about 8 years this is the first time i've asked questions about growing from anyone other than my mentor a 40 plus year veteran of cultivating cannabis and he would just tell me to do as i'm told i.e. 18/6-12/12
Red Inc.'s (red light) is very slow both in terms of Time Factor (1/Rate) and metabolism, which is why Red LEDs don't hardly work without either additional spectrums or Rauber Enhancement.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micsog
All top lit Inc.'s contribute excessive to sub canopy stem elongation, Rauber Enhancement doesn't. Adding Inc.'s up to one third FLORO or equal HID wattage fattens up the buds and hasten's finishing, but not usually grams per Watt yeilds. Or could run the fire hazard of running half those incandescent wattages from sub canopy lighting, which give better results, but I hate the fire hazard issue. I aim a spot light up through the plant and out through the Cola of choice. Since THC responces are localized in terms of Red/FR ratio, so you can experiment with sub areas of your grow space to gauge results before upgrading the full grow space.
When you used mixed light systems we call it a wattage based system, because their wattages determine responce, and in this case adding Red CFL without Rauber Enhancement would slow grow and lower efficiency compared to ADDing 1/3 THE WATTAGE (off the top of my head about 86 watts?) OF YOUR CFL's IN THE FORM OF CLEAR INC.'S.
Adding PAD to the first half of your SID hours slows things down more than adding it at the end. Also slowing down the time rate during your "Day" light period has a cumulative slow down effect of the following SID, but not PAD, duraton.
Sorry if that didn't cover is all, I gotta run, but you should read the PAD manual listed in the pictures directory of the Temporal Photonics Myspace page, in case you have any more questions before I get a chance to respond again.
Take care, Sal.
Hasten's... means faster right?Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
Is this referring to adding clear inc's to the "day" light or red inc's?..:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by salmayo
Sal... I found the definition sorry.....To move in a quick fashion; To make someone speed up or make something happen quicker.. I had to look that up...LOL... I thought it meant slow down..:thumbsup:
Either Clear or Red Inc.'s added to the "lights on" schedule leaves the plants clock and metabolism running faster when the lights first turn out and then through the rest of a SID Interval.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogznova
The light spectrums don't run the metabolism directly but through alterring populations of molecules that do, but altering the populations takes time itself, so there is a lag. There are lags like this in all such alterations in the form of transition time, but even during the transition the metabolism is changing in direct proportion to those molecular populations.
To make the car go, first someone had to put gas in the tank, but most people would just say push the gas pedal, which is unfortunately not always correct.
Take care, Sal.
ok i get it kinda so that is what i'll do. 1/3 of my cfl wattage or 1/3 lumens i saw those halogen clear inc's at wally's and use it sub canopy and try to localize the effects what about the red inc's at the end of the cycle i thought
someone said it wakes them up but also make them think there getting more
SID