Yes Cornelius thank you for the advice. How much money can I save building my own ballast rather than purchasing a kit that is all set to go ?
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Yes Cornelius thank you for the advice. How much money can I save building my own ballast rather than purchasing a kit that is all set to go ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by timmywilson
When air has to be sucked through the scrubber, air flow is reduced. With that said dayton type fans loss air pressure fast; i.e any bends in your ducting will cause air flow loss. When using inline fans they are much better at not having reduced air flow. There is minimal CFM reduction with bends in ducting, using scrubbers, etc with these inline fans. So in short you can use a dayton type fan but make sure to get a bigger CFM than you need to make up for the lose in air flow due to the scrubber. Or you could just get a inline fan and really not have to worry about any CFM reduction. Plus inlines are very quite. Hope this helps as I am pretty stoned of my new bong i bought today. It is a PHX let be the first to say that they hit sooo damn hard....peace out man
hehehe... Exactly. I grow in an enclosed closet 18" x 36" x however high I need to. Currently I'm running 5 plants, but usual is 4. (they're small)Quote:
Originally Posted by harris7
CFTs are available in a varity of spectra. My favorites are daylight (6500K) & warm white (2700K). Stark white (5500K) is also good. Cool white (4200K) is so-so.
I'm using 189W of CFT (7 x 27W CFT) which gives me 11620L for 4.5 ft².
At bud time, there are 126W more going in (3 x 42W CFT 2700K/2600L) bringing the total to 315W / ~ 19000L.
The L figures are deceptive: the plant tops are much closer to the bulb than the spec measurement distance, the bases of the plants are about 10" below the bulbs.
I could not run a 400W HPS in that closet without major ventilation modifications which would defeat the purpose of doing it in the closet. Nor could I place a running 400W HPS bulb 1" away from the plant.
If I was running an actual grow ROOM, I'd go w/400W HPS. But for small, enclosed grows, CFTS rule!
Your bulbs might have two wattages on themQuote:
Originally Posted by ridethefire
The lower one is the wattage it uses. And the ligher one is a marketing ploy, demonstrating the effishency.
BTW bulbs dont put out watts, they put out lumens. The second number is the amount of watts you would need to pump through a incandecnt bulb to get the same lumen output.
So your first comment the 250W bulb for 20. Can i assume that 250W is the output, not the acctual wattage.
here are the bulbs i am talking about
http://www.1000bulbs.com/products.ph...t-Fluorescents
double post
Hello everyone...
Exactly right :thumbsup: ... Light Output is measured in lumens.Quote:
BTW bulbs dont put out watts, they put out lumens.
Like you said earlier in your post:confused: , Light output is measured in lumens, not wattage. My bulbs for veg (now as side lighting) are 85W truetone 5000k bulbs that replace 250W incandescents. My "output" is 5000avg lumens.Quote:
So your first comment the 250W bulb for 20. Can i assume that 250W is the output, not the acctual wattage.
HIGHMAX by Maxilte - 200 Watt - 5000 Kelvin - Compact Fluorescent - 200W/UT/MOG/50K - 277 Volt - Maxlite 35873 - $78.25Quote:
Manufactured By: Maxlite
Manufactures Part Number:35873
Manufacturers Description: SKO200EA250 8U 277V E39 HPF
Lumins: 12000:confused:
Scotopic Lumens: 23,520
Efficacy (LM/W) 60
Life Hours: 10,000
Width: 5.12 in.
Measure of Over All Length: 14in.
Approximate Incandescent Equivalent: 850 Watts
Save 650 Watts in Energy
Mogul Base
277 Volt
Color or Hue = Stark White, 5000 Kelvin
ENERGY STAR Rating Pending
Catalog Code: FC200/35873
Those are the specs of the bulbs you are talking about.
They produce 12,000 lumens-for $80
My bulbs produce 5000 lumens for $20
For $80 you could get 4 of mine- producing 20,000 lumens...
if cost is an issue...:thumbsup:
I've heard those big butt CFL's put off quite a bit of heat too....Isn't that true? So wouldn't you really want to go with like the 85w or less? Not only cheaper but less heat probs which is mainly why you are going with CFL's in the first place. S
I donâ??t have any personal experience with large cflâ??s but I can safly say they will give off no where near the heat that a HPS or MH doesQuote:
Originally Posted by Bree1978
CFLâ??s work by putting an electrical arc through a gasâ?¦ not going to go into it
End result- electricity is turned into light. Heat is produced as by the inefficiency of the transition.
HPS and MH- work by using electricity to create heat (very efficient) then heat to light.
So the heat is purposely created. Thatâ??s why the lights get brighter as they heat up
And consider that if you buy small CFLâ??s you have to buy all the fixtures, reflectors, wiring etc. So that can add up.
Here are the prices and efficiencies from a few CFLâ??s
105Watt Compact Fluorescent
5000 and 4100 Kelvin None around 2500-3000 Kelvin
Equivalent 400Watts
Lumens 6900 or 65.7 LM/W
Cost 25$ Per Watt= 4.2 Watts/$
150Watt Compact Fluorescent
2700 Kelvin
Equivalent 650 Watts
Lumens 9200 or 61 LM/W ***
Cost 60$ Per Watt= 2.5 Watts/$
200Watt Compact Fluorescent
5000, 2700 Kelvin
Equivalent 850 Watts
Lumens 12000 or 60 LM/W for 2700 K
Cost 70$ Per Watt= 2.85 Watts/$
85Watt Compact Fluorescent (looking like best purchase)
3000, 6500, 5000 Kelvin
Equivalent 350 watts
Lumens: 4200 or 49.4 LM/W
Cost 20$ Per Watt= 4.25 Watts/$
65Watts Compact Fluorescent
3000, 6500 Kelvin
Equivalent 250 Watts
Lumens: 3400 or 52 LM/W
Cost 20$ Per Watt= 3.25 Watts/$
yeah you can probably save money building your own, though i don't know how much.. and while you're building it you can mod it to make it switchable.Quote:
Originally Posted by timmywilson
-p
400W HPS ballast $44 Lum 50000. Bulb, $60, cheaper at HD, but not as good. 1 bulb equals 15 ounces in a ebb and flow with CO2 by a fella named Sleepy on IC Mag and 3 QP's by father and law with no CO2 or hydro, just MG.
Adieu