Yeah I have Two 1000w MH w/ Transferable mh/hps ballast so i was going to switch both to hps. are the exhaust fans your talking about the ones that hook up to the vent pipes or they other ones?
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Yeah I have Two 1000w MH w/ Transferable mh/hps ballast so i was going to switch both to hps. are the exhaust fans your talking about the ones that hook up to the vent pipes or they other ones?
not made to hook up to a vent pipe nope..
I had to use some plastic , used the panda stuff, and alot of duct tape lol , but I hooked it to and run 10 inch ducting , the fan is like 12 inches, runs decently quiet for the amount of power.. just look up attic exhaust fans for cheap but strong fans to exhaust your room.
how does this look?
my setup is similar to that one except the fan on the right is not there. I use a 1K hps in a 4'x4' hydro hut. The temps in there stay the same as ambient. I have a 6' vortex cooling the lamp. Also, there is a 4" vortex with a carbon filter for exhaust.
The first pic is the fan pushing air from left to right into the lamp hood.
The second is the exhaust, thats where the filter hooks up. Eventually it goes to the attic. You can also see the vent on the other side of the light. That goes to the attic as well.
If you are going to use CO2 I don't think you want to do what you have drawn in the diagram. That way as soon as your CO2 is emmitted it will be carried out of the grow room. The second diagram is exactly what you need, but the question is, is the room going to stay cool enough? If not the only other suggestion I can think of is to rig up the smallest air conditioner you can find in a way that recirculates the air in the room and takes none from outside. Just a thought. Hope this helps and let us know how things progress. I have been interested in using CO2 also and I too would have the same problem you are having.
TGT
you'll get 40% more air flow using hard galvanized ductwrk too verses the foil sliky garbage also . your gonna go buy sweet hurricane fans n then go cork em up w/ cheap ass flexable ductwork is defeating your purpose .
just my 2 c worth
if you do what your first drawing was turn it around so you pull air off the ground and exhaust it through the roof. the air on your roof will be warmer than the air on the ground. unless its concrete or asphalt then it probably doesnt matter.
An expensive fan still pulls more then a cheap fan, crappy ducting or not. 90 degree elbows seem to make a difference...however to be honest...ive never found that much of a difference, especially with straight sections. I noticed no temp difference or airflow difference, but it looks sweeter and its a lot quieter.Quote:
Originally Posted by xcrispi
I pull 2 hoods with 1 8" fan (750cfm) always and I feed the room with just passive air and some circulating fans or a smaller diameter and cfm intake fan. This keeps the room around 70 degrees all the time, but thats largely dependent on the intake charge temp.
If you can afford all the fans and noise, the most efficient way to cool your room will be to pull cold air from outside the room, through both lights, and out the grow room to a difference area then the intake. Then have a 1 large fan pulling air out of the grow room (if its sealed) or the large exhaust and a smaller intake fan pulling air in the grow room...and run that on intervals with recirculating fans always going on inside. This would enable you to take advantage of CO2 without loosing it and without getting the room to hot when you turn off the room vent. Make sense?
Or just get a portable A/C and be done with your problems.