Ventilation Question

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Originally Posted by HARDDON

Now that is dedication!

I can assure you....if you are using a high end VORTEX or CANFAN, the end results will be the same. Static pressure is high and either way, the same amount of air will be moved.

Pushed or pulled, the end result will be the same.

The only thing I might add...according to your plans, the exhaust MUST or SHOULD be far away from the intake.

These fans have massive power and will suck air from whereever it gets it.

Just make sure the exhaust does not get sucked back into the grow room. The plants have already used the air and need fresh CO2.

But again, you are accomplishing the same thing either set-up.

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For sure, everything within the system is air tightened with duct clips and fast clamps if necessary. I'm not sure how well the lights will be cooled because the air will be taking in from the grow room, not outside, but hopefully the setup is such that the lights don't even get a chance to raise the grow room temperature a single degree. Passive intake at the bottom and a small occilating fan should help counteract any temperature increase. Will hopefully find a cheap 'environmental controller' so the ventilation is more effective.

Lights are going to raise temps...you can't avoid that.

Energy = HEAT no matter whether it's radio frequencies or light frequencies.

With those big vortex or canfans, you will need and want more than ONE passive intake. You will need and want several.

I would suck air thru the filter ,then thru the hood , and then thru the fan and out.
If you try to blow air thru a hood , you would have to seal the hood completely in order to keep from blowing hot air out around the glass ect..(unless its a cooltube) Where as sucking it thru the hood ,if you have a little air leak know big deal.
I would definately suggest getting the biggest fan you can afford(within reason)And I would suggest a CanFan
Using a carbonfilter, ducting and cooling a hood will cause a bit of static preasure,and i have found that the squirrelcage fans just dont cut the mustard when it comes to preasure.
I use a 8" Canfan HO 756cfm .I divided the duct into 2 6" ducts .1 duct cools 2 1000s and the other cools 3 400s.
Hope this helps

Mine is set up like the second drawing.
The temp raises about 5 dgrees with the lights on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HARDDON

Lights are going to raise temps...you can't avoid that.

Energy = HEAT no matter whether it's radio frequencies or light frequencies.

With those big vortex or canfans, you will need and want more than ONE passive intake. You will need and want several.

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Thanks for the responses, I'll be using a 420m3/hour RVK fan and dialing it down. From experience, the 175m/hour are just too noisy working flat out consistently, I don't know how the fan will sound if I dial it down but I'm hoping it will make a difference.

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Originally Posted by hondo

I would suck air thru the filter ,then thru the hood , and then thru the fan and out.
If you try to blow air thru a hood , you would have to seal the hood completely in order to keep from blowing hot air out around the glass ect..(unless its a cooltube) Where as sucking it thru the hood ,if you have a little air leak know big deal.
I would definately suggest getting the biggest fan you can afford(within reason)And I would suggest a CanFan
Using a carbonfilter, ducting and cooling a hood will cause a bit of static preasure,and i have found that the squirrelcage fans just dont cut the mustard when it comes to preasure.
I use a 8" Canfan HO 756cfm .I divided the duct into 2 6" ducts .1 duct cools 2 1000s and the other cools 3 400s.
Hope this helps

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The reflector would be sealed I'm guessing, haven't actually got the light yet. The thing is that the exhaust is much more powerful so I would have thought it would work better, someone said it makes no difference. I'm a bigger fan of sucking, I'll probaly be doing this, thanks.

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Originally Posted by Jdog7000

Mine is set up like the second drawing.
The temp raises about 5 dgrees with the lights on.

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:stoned: