another alternative would be...since your using cfls already..they make cfls that get rid of odor..only downside is that they only work when on...you can always stick febreeze (the ones that you stick on the wall) in your setup....
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another alternative would be...since your using cfls already..they make cfls that get rid of odor..only downside is that they only work when on...you can always stick febreeze (the ones that you stick on the wall) in your setup....
OK...now that i am totally sober and not so fucked up...let me tell you what has occured and exactly what i am asking...sorry about the mix up on the question...i already have a vent fan installed...i cut a hole in my door for the air being pulled out of the box to go out and i was wanting to know if there is something i can put infront of the fan...around the hole...to make no light and/or odor to leave.....hope this clearifies up some confusion...
oh...got another question...with the lighting that i am using...will i need to switch lights any time during other stages...such as veggieing....or flowering?....if so...please dont give me abbreviations....so i know what to exactly get
whenever you start to flower..use the "warm" bulbs...they come 3000 Kelvin or less...
Stinkyattic's got it right! I think the vent-hole question is in regards to a light-baffle, something to prevent light from leaking into the ventilation hole.
A cheap solution is to install a PVC elbow joint (painted black) the same diameter as the hole, oriented so as not to let light in.
Whether you install a carbon-filter is up to you and how much the plants stink.
Good luck :thumbsup:
yeah what he said... : )
stinky...i love the drawing...btw...nice scribbles on the top...thanks for the info man...i think i will try the box method first and then if all else fails...do the pvc pipe...but i still have my questions as far as flowering and light changing posted above...any suggestions ??????
ok...quick one...(i should print out alot of my finding so i can find them again) but anyways...what is the right level of N-P-K?????
also....Knowm...or anyone...im not a rich man...so a 60$ ph tester is way above my budget....where can i get a cheap tester...would the paper's work???
I assume by 150 watt CFL you mean 'equivalent to 150 watts of incandescent bulb lighting'. 150 (real) watt CFLs are huge, and expensive, like $80 per bulb or something. I have a couple of 150 watt (real) CFLs and they are like a foot long and each has its own reflector, and each puts out 12,000 lumens or around there. If you have real 150 watt and 100 watt CFLs, then it'd be kinda rough to just switch bulbs for flowering, simply because each set of bulbs would cost you several hundred dollars. If you have small 30-watt or 42-watt CFLs, which is what I suspect you have, then using warm bulbs for flowering makes total sense, since they're far cheaper.
As for preventing light leaks, Doran 8"x8" darkroom louvres are freaking wonderful. Yes, you can build your own baffled louvre, but odds are if you do, it will be bigger and less efficient at moving air than those made by Doran. On the other hand, it's hard to argue with free. But I have a couple of Doran louvres, and have zero regrets on buying them.
There is also such a thing as too much light, in terms of diminishing returns. If you pack 5 1000-watt lights into a 3'x3' area, you won't get 5 times the bud you would have gotten from one such light, whether you can handle the heat or not. You might not get any more bud at all, but your electric bill would definitely be much higher. Aim for 5,000 lumens per square foot. More than that won't do you much, if any, good. (Although keep in mind that the amount of light that reaches a particular point will be inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the light.)