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i'd save the superthrive for transplanting and other stress related times. i use it too but have never heard of using it for foliar feeding and can't find anything on the bottle i have in front of me. it's for the roots, according to the bottle and all else i've heard about it and it may plug pores on the leaves if allowed to dry.
I stepped up today.
Got a digital/switchable ballast, 400mh/400hps, cool tube setup now :)
How far should the MH be from the plants? Seems to not cover all the leaves at the edges as well, when i get it close.
I ran outta money, so I modified a $40 Stanley fan for the exhaust. It is working quite well, and when I get a carbon filter in there, it should be even more quiet.
I have a few layers of activated carbon filter material, installed at the exit grill for now. It works. Of course, I plan to have my complete filtering system in place before I flower.
Going to try to find a way to lay my screen tomorrow, so I can start ScrOG training.
Thanks for the tips and comments. I appreciate them all.
not sure about the MH but i kno u can move the CFL closer to the plant, less heat n more lights always good :thumbsup:
yah, they were about 3 inches from the top most of the time. I kept them up there as they were growing fast.
I topped them yesterday, and going to wait about 1 week or so, and then switch to 12/12. Going to try to finish up the screen tonight.
well, today one of the plants showed some signs of a problem. They all have the same soil, ph'd water, nutes, etc. Just one of the plants have some leaf curl (upwards), and the edges of the same leaves were turning a lighter green than the middle.
I tried researching, and seems like everyone has a different diagnosis. I pulled her out and flushed her with ph'd pure water. It's only a few leaves, but i am worried... hope she gets better.
If anyone KNOWS what it might be, let me know.
Is that plant closest too the light.. than move it further away. Could be too much heat from the lamp.
yeah, i don't think that is it. I moved the light up a little anyways though.
the plant that has the problems is the one furthest from the light. I am thinking I may have topped this one wrong, and caused it to go into shock?
The photo posted below seemed to have captured the bad pretty well. It looks worse in the photo for some reason, but u get the idea.
The photo was taken after I flushed heavily with pure water, and about 8 hours under the light.
the other 5 plants are growing strong, no problems. wonder why this one is having problems. They are clones from the same mother....
The burnt tips tell me the tds is high. The decoloration of the leaves tells me the ph is a problem. Most of the time it is a high tds coupled with a continuously wet bottom of the soil that causes the ph to drop. I do not folair so I am going to tell you not to but dont feel you need to listen to me. The plant may have to many auxins. Auxins are growth hormones found in very high levels in products such as thrive alive and superthrive. The concentration of auxins is found mostly in the shoots. I use no more then two drops a gallon of these products. If you have used more I would discontinue use all together of it. The main yellowing is in your shoot growths so I suspect that the auxins have reached near toxic levels and the low ph due to the high tds and wet bottom soil have added to the stress. If this is the case what I would do is first flush that one gallon with three gallons of water. Next we our going to need her to dry out in under 4 days. Three would be ideal. I would take my finger and in the holes at the bottom of the pot make tunnels forming a cross on the bottom to get some air in there. Transpiration is also going to be a factor. We need as much water and junk she has stored in her viens to pass out through the stoma on the bottom of the leaves. A fan would help pass dry air under the leaves and through the holes on the new tunnel on the bottom of the pot. Since she is going to be quite wet a heating pad such as an electric blanket would help. The soil should not get above 100 degrees through out the soil. I had to do this with a plant once and did not have a electric blanket. I have old iron radiators in my house so I cranked up the heat and put a couple of towels on top of it folded for her to sit on. The heat created a updraft of dry air and helped dry the soil in a little over two days. I did not have an extra fan or holes in my pots as I was using pleated pots which are very rare and hard to come by. No actually it was a one gallon like you have, but a very long story that had to do with tall cylinder bars. Any way she can come back so dont worry. The MH is a more blue spectrum then the HPS which will help produce more cloroplasts made with blue light then break them down from a more yellow light. You look like you are growing in a cabinet and if so it will be humid. Keep them in a dry air you know and raise the temp at the top of the plants to at least 85 degree. I run my grow room at temps upwards of 95 some days and the plants are fine. She is airtight so with CO2 raised slightly it is not that bad. A great way to make CO2 in a cabinet is with a gallon jug, 2 cups of sugar, and a table spoon of active yeast. poke a hole in the cap and shake it twice a day. Hot water works best to dissolve the yeast before it is added to the jug. I hope this is helpfull.
One love
c
omg. u are a champion sir.
thank u very very very much!
The packed water at the bottom makes sense, as well as the superthrive i been adding. I am going to fix the problem now, and flush again.
What PH do u recommend as my target for watering? I hear so many different numbers from people.