repot that plant with perlite/ soil mix
looks like its overwatered.
remove the plants from the pots and smell the dirt.
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repot that plant with perlite/ soil mix
looks like its overwatered.
remove the plants from the pots and smell the dirt.
It could also be under watering..
I'm not sure. . . How much/often do you water?
it looks like overwatering ,with underwatering the leaves start to dry out begining at the tips and i dont see that when did this occur morning or night , time, and how long after watering did it occur harvesthetic im on my way setting up a scrog so keep the thread updated as im following wth great intrest and any info you got would be of great help and very pro mate keep it up,and as freind owl said i woul repot with a better draining soil mix best off luck mate i will pray to nebula the god of all mary jane plants and ask her to spread a little love your way ,lol best of luck mate and keep it up
this may help mate
If disease is a possibility, check the following general guidelines for identifying the different causes of disease:
A fungal pathogen often causes round leaf spots, stem rots with a dry/papery texture, concentric rings, discoloration, or wilt. Fruiting structures (sometimes microscopic) may form on affected tissue.
A bacterial disease can take the form of galls (swollen areas), irregularly shaped leaf spots, wilting (then yellowing and dying), or rot (often a wet rot).
A viral pathogen can inhibit chlorophyll formation, causing degrees of yellowing or mottling, stunting, distortion, or dieback of part of the plant. Viruses usually debilitate rather than kill, as they are parasitic.
Nematodes are microscopic roundworms that cause disease-like symptoms. Stem nematodes feed on stems and cause shortening of internodes. Root nematodes feed underground, damaging the root system; this leads to moisture and nutrient stress which shows up as wilting and stunting. Foliar nematodes cause angular leaf spots.
If an insect problem seems likely, check the following:
A chewing/rasping insect feeds on plant tissue and can cause ragged/chewed or missing leaves (caterpillars, slugs, beetles, grasshoppers), rolled leaves (leafroller), tunnels in between upper and lower leaf surfaces (leaf miners), holes in stems, branches or trunk; sections of tree dying; or premature yellowing (wood borers), girdled or dead stems (cutworms, twig girdlers, or stem borers), or general decline of plants due to root damage (soil dwelling insects)
A sucking insect feeds on plant fluids and injects toxins into the plant. The toxins can cause leaf spotting or stippling (aphids, leafhoppers, spider mites, other bugs), leaf distortion such as curling or puckering (or more commonly this can be damage from leafhoppers and thrips), or poisoning of entire plants, resulting in stunted growth and/or yellowing (scale, mealybugs, mites, aphids, whitefly).
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Non-living Factors
Damage caused by mechanical factors is usually revealed by close visual examination; check for broken or girdled stems or roots, also bruised, punctured, or broken leaves.
Damage due to physical factors often results from environmental extremes. Cold damage is characterized by death of exposed foliage. Container plants are susceptible to cold damage to the root system, characterized by blackened or spongy roots with lack of new growth or root hairs, usually near the container edge.
A rapid change from low light to high light intensity, or vice versa, can cause yellowing of leaves, reduced growth, and leaf drop or death. Too little light can reduce, delay, or prevent flowering.
Excess heat usually causes scorch symptoms on leaf tips and interveinal areas. Portions of leaves shaded by other leaves, or leaves on the shady side of the plant, may be undamaged. Frequently, heat damage will occur uniformly over all plants in an affected area.
Drought and waterlogging produce many of the same symptoms on the above-ground parts of the plant, mainly chlorosis (yellowing leaves), abscission (shedding older leaves), and wilt. Waterlogging of the root zone also results in oxygen deficiency, leading to a halt in root growth and metabolism, death of the roots, and wilt.
Damage due to chemical factors - inappropriately used pesticides or excessive rates of pesticides can cause symptoms, such as leaf burn, distortion, chlorosis, or bleaching, depending on the chemical. On a field basis, pesticide or fertilizer damage symptoms frequently are associated with application patterns.
Nutrient deficiencies show up as yellowing, stunting, or death of older plant leaves or new growth, depending on the missing nutrients.
Refer to expert information. Talk to your Extension agent or local garden center, explaining the symptoms thoroughly, or check all the symptoms against a good chart or reference book, keeping in mind the factor you have determined as the likely cause. If it appears insects or pathogens are causing the problem, be sure to positively identify the pest so you can choose the most effective control measure.
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I haven't done it yet, but I've read that all growth UNDER the screen should be removed.Quote:
-The lower branches, underneath the screen, when should they be removed? I saw some pics where there was absolutely no leafage under the screen? looked a bit like a handicapped plant. Should I do this too? And if so, when?
You shouldn't remove everything in a 20 minute cutting frenzy... you should day by day, progressively remove all leaves, secondary growth, flowers, etc.. that are located under the screen.
Although the plant will look handicapped, my opinion is: looooong time ago that plant stopped growing like it did in nature... I mean, you're weaving it into a screen. I hope my SCRoG is all clean cut underneath. :)
Best,
-turtle420 :cool:
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hiya friendowl, they're already in perlite/soil mix :p found the problem, apparently it was underwatering :confused: but uhm... i'm using second hand soil could this have any significant consequenses?Quote:
Originally Posted by friendowl
yeah m8 that was the dilly. i normally stick to a strict watering regiment, because after all it's what they eat right? tonight was a very hot night in my appartment (to be interpreted) and the temp had risen to nearly 31°celsius. Whereas they are normally at a stable 26°c i failed to notice in all my despair lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Powder Puff
hey scobbie the love arrived homie :) they made an incredibly fast recovery. you could almost watch the leaves strenghten up. It's because you said that dry tips are signs of underwatering that i was able to fix it. the soil somehow completely dried out in one night, and I watered yesterday :confused: also thanks for the info on diseases, real damn helpful. already won the battle against the spider mites :cool: cheers!Quote:
Originally Posted by scobbie
hail nebula!
There's quite the debate going on there on other forums huh? :) trimming all the leaves in a 20 minute chainsaw massacre isn't the way to go, that's clear, but some say that in order to have full nutrient absorption, the maximum is trimming the secondary internodes. but.... hey i'm going scrog, as you say, the plant stopped growing in a natural way (LST, suppercropping, bending, topping, SOG, hydroponics, aeroponics, SCROG, tube-growing, hedgefarming... LOL!) Me thinks our little girls could handle a bit of weaving huh? Check the picture, i've already trimmed some, but i'll be gradually cutting away so I can achieve the effect of Scrog pic i posted earlier.Quote:
Originally Posted by turtle420
thx for the input 'ppreciate it was scared there for a minute. as you see the droopage has decreased very fast, and three hours after I posted, they're up again... Better keep monitoring those babies ;)
It's ok now, only slight droop on 1 plant, the tips of each plant are now above the screen, beginning to die down the main stems to try to weave them across the screen.
Is fishing wire ok for supporting and tying down the main stems? Or is that going to cut into the plants? Planning on getting the right material tomorrow, along with the exhaust fan, so any suggestions are welcome.
later on i'll post in detail how I tie down the stems for the optimal use of light, space and height.
Cya later!
harv
hey wassup harv ive been meaning to stop by and show some support but looking at your grow progress jus makes me want to do more for my own and get sidetracked but hey that 1st grow of yours bangen an im sure afta u figure out this overwatering/drooping problem this one'll be just as effective.. keep them up!
no problem dude, thanks for the supportQuote:
Originally Posted by BkSkillz
Day 8 of the scrog
good on its way now, only signs of the underwatering situation are some yellow leaves. No biggie, 85-90% of the plants are completely healthy and growing fast. Started building up the nutrient mix as described earlier. The bends don't seem to harm or stunt the growth of the plant in any way, and it's a fun thing to do. :) I'm bending each of the four plants in a different way, to see what is best. The one with the 90° angle is in pic 1. I'm going to lead him alongside the strings, straight on, to cover the screen and get all the internodes to bud straight up, for optimal use of the light.
All four babies have their heads above the screen. pic 3
good thread mate i have been low stress training on some clones for a scrog they are just about ready about a week to go then the screen is going over them , so im enjoying learning a thing or 2 with your thread , keeep it up mate great thread:thumbsup: