what is the best butane for extracting? i figured that butane for lighters would be cleaner 'cause it is for lighting tobacco! i'll do some more experimenting when i can
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what is the best butane for extracting? i figured that butane for lighters would be cleaner 'cause it is for lighting tobacco! i'll do some more experimenting when i can
[QUOTE=scooterjay]what is the best butane for extracting? i figured that butane for lighters would be cleaner 'cause it is for lighting tobacco! i'll do some more experimenting when i can[/QUOTE
For butane extraction any butane works however if you didnt use some alchol to help get rid of the butane you are smoking shit that will hurt you in the end.
Butane extraction is used for honey oil and it should NOT be white.
Also seeds have thier own oils you should never use seeds with bud in a extraction attempt.
Your buds should be chooped up stems leaves ok also but seeds need to be taken out.
You can put your bud in a pvc pipe with both ends closed off.
One end of pipe needs 1 hole so the butane tip will fit in it.
The other end needs atleast 6-8 holes like a salt shaker so the butane can run out.
You will need a coffee filter inside the pipe on the end of pvc with 6-8holes to filter your extraction.
You need something small to catch it in(I use a sauce pan) and some alchol(I use everclear 190 proof) this helps remove the harmful butane.
I then heat the mixture of butane/resin/alchol on a electric stove on its lowest setting this evaporates all harmfuls away from your resisn you will be left with a sticky substance the color will depend on how good your weed is.
(DO NOT USE A GAS STOVE YOU WILL BLOW THE FUCK UP THIS IS A VERY FLAMABLE MIXTURE REMEMBER WHAT YOU'RE DEALING WITH)
You will get a black, green, brown or honey color.
Honey is the best and worth 75 a gram easy.
Black is the worst worth about 20 a gram but I personally wouldnt ever buy black oils.
Honey oil can also be made with just 190 proof alchol using the same methods for this you just need a mason jar a bottle of everclear and some weed.
Chop the weed up removeing all seeds place weed inside the mason Jar and pour enough everclear to cover the weed making a thick liquid/slug.
Shake the jar up and let it set for 1hr.
Then filter the weed from the juice in the jar I use a t-shirt squeeze all the juice from the weed and now you can either throw the weed away or you can do it once more I always run it twice if you want to then just repeat the steps above if not throw the weed away then heat your alchol and resin on a electric stove on low until you are left with just a resin mixture should only bubble a little but never reach a full boil.
(DONT USE GAS STOVE EVERCLAER IS HIGHLY COMBUSTABLE AND YOU WILL BLOW YOURSELF THE FUCK UP)
You can scrape your resin out which will leave you with a pure THC smoke.
These methods are dangerous so if you try these please be safe and cautious when doing them I wouldnt smoke or anything like that you would be suprised how easy it explodes.
DFG
I suspect the white stuff referred to is actually foam caused when the butane was boiling off and it perked through some contaminant in the butane, water, or some by-product leached out of the weed.
I get white stuff occasionally, but I don't know for sure what causes it. I vote for water, since it's almost impossible to remove all moisture from either the plants or the air, and because the white stuff reminds me of the foam we used to find in air cooled engines that got water in the oil, as well as the foam that gathers on the top of melted butter when you separate it.
The author is right that it smokes up all right. I've done it, but I don't generally smoke pure honey oil regardless of the color -- it's just too messy and wasteful. I either mix it with kif and press it into bricks or I melt butter into the jar I captured the stuff in and make a budder that's potent, but doesn't have that "pot brownie" taste when I cook with it.
Oh -- and I did some work with my gunpowder scales -- 30g of A-/B bud gave me 2.46g of honey oil after the solvent was all evaporated, but the extract was still the consistency of chilled honey. I know the resin content of 15g of the donor was low and not worth smoking. That's why I used it. Your results may (will probably) vary.
If we look at the estimated value of a gram of honey from the above post ^ we see that it's not a really cost effective product to make commercially in small volumes. Goes good as a dip for shrimp, though. :)
(DO NOT USE A GAS STOVE YOU WILL BLOW THE FUCK UP THIS IS A VERY FLAMABLE MIXTURE REMEMBER WHAT YOU'RE DEALING WITH)
(DONT USE GAS STOVE EVERCLAER IS HIGHLY COMBUSTABLE AND YOU WILL BLOW YOURSELF THE FUCK UP)
These methods are dangerous so if you try these please be safe and cautious when doing them I wouldnt smoke or anything like that you would be suprised how easy it explodes.
Amen to all of that! :thumbsup:
Know the boiling point and flsh point of any solvent you plan to use. Alcohol boils between about 172f and 190f, depending on purity. Butane boils at ~31f. I don't remember the flash point of either off-hand, but they are close, as I recall. That means that although the butane vaporizes faster, it has more temperature latitude to work with. I do butane extractions outdoors, only. (Butane is really close to propane in the way it behaves and it's yield when ignited. So pretend you've got a bomb between your knees when you're using it . . . .) Alcohol is an indoor/outdoor activity because it requires real heat -- like a stove -- to boil.
When I do butane, I do it at night when the temp is below 30f. I throw everything I'll use for the job in the chest freezer for a while and really chill them. That way the "natural" state of things is below boiling, and I can control the butane. Once I have my extractor all assembed, I put the jar of butane in a kitchenaid mixing bowl of water (like a double-boiler. any water temp above freezing will do, under 40f will keep the internal pressure down) and the scant heat of the water boils the butane. Since an extractor is a closed system, you can evaporate and condense the butane safely (well, more safely than just spewing it out into the air) and repeatedly, letting it drip for hours thru the weed till it drips clear.
You can put your bud in a pvc pipe with both ends closed off.
I'd suggest that if you're using a non-metal extraction chamber, check to be sure it's butane grade. Not all plastics are butane-proof and they may leach unwanted stuff into the product. I use standard iron plumbing pipe for my extraction unit. It's heavy, but it will take a lot of internal pressure and it is inert to butane.
One end of pipe needs 1 hole so the butane tip will fit in it.
The other end needs atleast 6-8 holes like a salt shaker so the butane can run out.
You will need a coffee filter inside the pipe on the end of pvc with 6-8holes to filter your extraction.
I drill a single hole in each end cap of my plumbing pipe and solder a piece of copper tubing as a "stub". Then I can put plugs, tubing, or valves on them as needed. Same can be done with plastics, except you need a butane-grade glue instead of solder to seal in the stubs. I use a fine steel wool instead of coffee filters at the bottom. Steel wool doesn't add a taste, won't break, is reusable, and you can just wad it into the bottom before adding the weed. One biscuit of 000 steel wool in the bottom of a 2" dia extraction chamber passes filters virtually all of my coffee-grindered donor weed -- no discernable particles in the finished product.
A .38 shell with the (used) primer installed makes a great plug for 3/8 tubing and hose. A .38 shell with the primer removed is the perfect injection port for the butane. The ignition hole is just smaller than the snout on an 8oz butane can. If you don't own a .38, you ought to!
i made a "ghetto vaporiser" out of a lightbulb, then made a baby vaporiser out of a small appliance bulb. i'm trying the extraction into the small bulb, then vape up what is left. it isn't much, just some trim from the latest harvest and a couple of roaches. test purposes only. i'll try it again next week when the northern lights show up.
same shit in a jointQuote:
Originally Posted by trippruss
carcinogens are not found naturally in plants.
Chemical additives and chemical pestacides cause carcinogens.
I dont have the best lungs and if it was not for steriods during my early youth I would not be alive today. If I smoke a few cigs in a day I weeze at night when going to sleep. If I smoke organic bud all day long I breathe fine. I can smoke all day every day for a year and have not one problem from breathing.
Its the chemicals that do it to me. If I smoke any thing that is organic I dont have a problem and if it was bad I would know it. The chems are what get me.