Looking for input on Predator Mites
I do understand what you are saying Zed. Have you heard anything about mites getting immune to Floramite and Avid? I ask because I read, I think in a CU paper, that this is becoming an issue. The recommendation was to rotate the active ingredients.
I would guess that unless a grower has a sealed room and an air lock to change clothes in the little bastards will return as the chemicals break down. If flower time is nine weeks and chems break down in four to five and mites return maybe some predators sprinkled in will keep them at bay. I knocked a number off of a beautiful Django plant with a plain water spray last night. It has three weeks to go and I don't want to be picking off feeder leaves this early or hitting it with Chems.
I can see how a large garden would be quite tough to keep mite free in nearly any scenario.
[attachment=o276373] :thumbsup:
Allen
Looking for input on Predator Mites
Hello Allen,
I am a duly authorized representative for No Spider Mites. This product is 100% organic and works when used correctly. If you have a resale liscense I can set you up with a wholesale account just pm a phone number or e-mail. The product can be used in flower and is non-toxic to beneficial bugs, animals, and humans.
For more info:
No Spider Mites: Get Rid of Spider Mites Organically | Safe Spider Mite Control
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Looking for input on Predator Mites
Quote:
Originally Posted by MakeSense
Hello Allen,
I am a duly authorized representative for No Spider Mites. This product is 100% organic and works when used correctly. If you have a resale liscense I can set you up with a wholesale account just pm a phone number or e-mail. The product can be used in flower and is non-toxic to beneficial bugs, animals, and humans.
For more info:
No Spider Mites: Get Rid of Spider Mites Organically | Safe Spider Mite Control
Hey MakeSence. I saw your product at a grow store. They said it was so safe you could drink it. I smelled it then dipped and tasted a finger then took a shot. I found no specific ingredient label but think it is simply soapy water with a bit of Rosemary oil for smell. Am I correct and if not can will you post the ingredients?
Looking for input on Predator Mites
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenScott
Hey MakeSence. I saw your product at a grow store. They said it was so safe you could drink it. I smelled it then dipped and tasted a finger then took a shot. I found no specific ingredient label but think it is simply soapy water with a bit of Rosemary oil for smell. Am I correct and if not can will you post the ingredients?
No problem.
It is a combination of:
Organic Citronella Oil
Organic Geranium Oil
Citric Acid
Organic Cottonseed Oil
Rosemary
It's definately not soap water. You can test this yourself. Just shake the container and you will notice that no bubbles form. Also since it is not a poison they cannot build up a tolerance.
The plants actually seem to enjoy the stuff.
Hope this helps.
Looking for input on Predator Mites
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenScott
I do understand what you are saying Zed. Have you heard anything about mites getting immune to Floramite and Avid? I ask because I read, I think in a CU paper, that this is becoming an issue. The recommendation was to rotate the active ingredients.
I would guess that unless a grower has a sealed room and an air lock to change clothes in the little bastards will return as the chemicals break down. If flower time is nine weeks and chems break down in four to five and mites return maybe some predators sprinkled in will keep them at bay. I knocked a number off of a beautiful Django plant with a plain water spray last night. It has three weeks to go and I don't want to be picking off feeder leaves this early or hitting it with Chems.
I can see how a large garden would be quite tough to keep mite free in nearly any scenario.
[attachment=o276373] :thumbsup:
Allen
Yes, mites can and will build an immunity to any chemical including Avid and Floramite. Its been a few years since I've had mites but at the time I read where there were some Avid immune mites in California and I imagine there are some in Colorado, but so far I havent seen any. As recent as a month ago a friend had been battling mites for months so I gave him some Avid and so far he has been mite free. It sounds like you have been researching mites quite a bit so you probably already know how they are able to build an immunity so easily. Any chemical exposure that doesnt kill them is passed on to their offspring, and since they reproduce at such a fast rate you can have an immune mite within weeks. Avid is so strong I have never seen it not kill the mites, but I would think that in order for this to happen it would be due to improper usage such as mixing it to weak or not applying it properly. I think the main reason Avid is so effective is because it absorbs into the leaf tissue and is active for 4-6 weeks (which is why you only use it in veg), so any eggs that hatch they will be killed from the first meal. I did read the CU paper you mentioned about alternating, but thankfully I did not need to do that although I see the logic as to why, but buying both products is expensive.
As far as them returning after the chemical breaks down, I think as long as you practice a little common sense you should be fine. I have been growing off and on for 20 years and I've only gotten mites once and it was from a clone from a dispensary. The only normal precaution I take is I take my shoes off the minute I walk into my house, or if I was outside doing yard work or just visited a mite infested garden then I remove all clothes and shower before going near my garden. I really don't worry to much about it because once you know what to do they are not that difficult to get rid of.
Looking for input on Predator Mites
Looking for input on Predator Mites
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenScott
The hunting from the start makes a lot of sense on wild lady bugs. I believe there are some seasonal factors as well that influence their hunger. I may try the dryer sheet trick and see what happens. I'll watch, and smell, closely as I do worry a bit about smell moving to the plants. I'm hyper dedicated to clean medicine and don't want to contaminate any of it. Peace.
I got a couple pennies for ya.
I use the Kirkland brand.
They are less "scented' than Bounce.
And I just lay them on the soil surface.
That keeps the flyers from laying eggs and any larva already in the soil from becoming fliers
They have not stunk-up the buds from that distance. ('bout 4 inches from the bottom buds)
Well, more accurately. after a week of drying, my nose can't detect any "smell of sheet" in the popcorn nugs :D
So far, so good!
There are two points I'd like to make about ladybugs.
One, it's the ladybug larva that do the bulk of the mite noshing.
Attachment 277222
The effective method is to release the adult at dusk so they will spend the night
Attachment 277223
and hopefully, lay eggs in the morning.
Then they can "fly away home".
And B, many of the "ladybugs" being sold are not actually ladybugs.
Attachment 277221
Some are harlequin beetles.
Look for a "W" on the thorax instead of the "eyespots".
In Hawaii, we have black ones with red eyespots, and they bite!.
"However, the question of what do ladybugs eat is much more complex than this.
There are exceptions to most every rule, for example sub family Epilachninae can actually be considered vegetarian ladybugs.
Some of them eat fungus, like mushrooms.
There are some that like to dine on mildew. !!!
Still others prefer eating leaves and can even become pests of some plants. "
As usual, it's best to read the friendly manual and do some homework.
They avoid the dryer sheets too so ya can't use both methods of control at the same time.
And a side note.
Dryer sheets do not stop red spider mites completely but will deter the ladybugs from eating them for us. <sigh>
Aloha ya'll
Weezard.
