Ill add some more stuff to this tonight or tomorrow, if you guys get a chance read this thread and my thoughts on PH.
http://boards.cannabis.com/hydroponi...ml#post2153146
Anyone have any questions on what I have already posted?:rastasmoke:
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Ill add some more stuff to this tonight or tomorrow, if you guys get a chance read this thread and my thoughts on PH.
http://boards.cannabis.com/hydroponi...ml#post2153146
Anyone have any questions on what I have already posted?:rastasmoke:
[attachment=o258813]Ok had some questions as to what the pvc was for, size of the pvc, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by MimbresValley
There is NO need for the pvc in these stand alone buckets, I build them like that personally, but to touch on it further.
The pvc Im using is 1 1/4", and that is an aeroflow 1 1/4" grommet, you can find it at a lot of places online, I personally like wormsway, but there shipping is kinda pricey for small items.
This gives me a way to access the water without having to pick up the lid or even move it. Then I can just check the ph or ec with my meter. and it makes topping off easier too. this also gives a way to connect interconnect the system to make everything automated and recirculating, but If this is your first dwc I recommend doing stand alone buckets. Also if you arn't careful having a water pumping going can overheat your water solution, If your water temps get over 70 degrees, anything can go wrong. DO levels go way down, bacteria reproduces more rapidly, lots of growers recommend a chiller, but if you use my method, you can get away without using one, super cheap chillers costs at least several hundred dollars.
Its important to keep your room at no more than 75 degrees when running this setup, With the weather setting in, nobody should have problems cooling their room with the cold air at night.
Its also important to run a lower ec. 1.2 should be your MAX in this type setup, and honestly thats even kinda high.
These buckets are very cheap to get into, but if you start buying water pumps, bigger air pumps, pvc, grommets, etc then the prices can go up substantially.
As you can see by my plants they are doing great, there is a root shot of one of the smaller ones.
[attachment=o258813]
I don't know why it doesnt display, when you click on it, it downloads, its just a diagram of how you can interconnect the system I drew on paint
Couple pictures from this morning,
I hear people asking about topping plants, and how many times you can do it, in this last picture you can see a plant in a small red dixie cup, I have topped her a couple times to make sure she was still within the guidelines set forth by the DOH. I topped her once, then topped all the side shoots, and I am thinking about topping all those shoots that have emerged.
:stoned:
when She does start vegging she will be a monster.
[attachment=o258814]
[attachment=o258815]
[attachment=o258816]
[attachment=o258817]
so the bigger girl, she was vegged 3 weeks, the two smaller ladies went from the cloner, with zero veg time, the big girl is just about 4 weeks into flower, the others two are about 3 weeks into flower, the big girl finishes in 9 weeks, as well as one of the littler ones, then I have one sativa that takes about 13 weeks.:jointsmile:
Here is an interesting article by Daniel Fernandez.
"When water reacts with itself to create the H3O(+)(hydroxyl) and OH(-) (hydroxide) species, one of the most fundamental and important characteristics of aqueous solutions is generated. The reactivity of a solution and its interaction with living organisms is determined in a great extent by the concentration of these two species, a variable usually measured as pH which is nothing but the negative value of the logarithm of the concentration of the H3O(+) ion. In hydroponic culture ?? where our plants are in great contact with aqueous solutions ?? the understanding of the role of the H3O(+) and OH(-) ions and their measurement as pH becomes very important if an in-depth understanding of what is going on wants to be attained. On today??s post I will attempt to guide you into this micro world of pH and how and why pH changes within a hydroponic crop. Tomorrow -on Part No.2 ?? I will try to explain to you how plants adapt to pH changes and what a pH change actually means for a living organism.
What determines pH ? This variable is inversely proportional to the concentration of H3O(+) ions and directly proportional to OH(-) ions, the more hydroxil ions you have the more acidic your solution will be (the lower the pH) while more hydroxide ions will increase your pH and give you a higher pH reading. It is important to understand here that hydroxyl and hydroxide ions determine each other??s concentration. Since water??s self-reaction equilibria must be maintained, the sum of pH and pOH must always be equal to 14 (a neat consequence of chemical equilibrium theory). When the concentration of hydroxyl and hydroxide ions is equal, pH and pOH contribute equally to the solution and they are therefore both 7, reason why the pH of a neutral solution has this value.
Now that we know a little bit about pH we can understand better what happens when plants interact with a nutrient solution. When a plant is put within a given solution it wants to absorb the nutrients it needs to grow. These nutrients are avilable as ions that have a given charge. For example, nitrogen is absorbed as the nitrate ion (NO3(-)) while potassium is absorbed as the K(+) ion. When a plant takes potassium in, it deplets the solution of a positive charge. Since the solution must remain neutral the plant gives the solution an H3O(+) ion to compensate. The plant has therefore decreased the pH of the solution by absorbing a potassium ion. When nitrate is absorbed ?? an ion with a negative charge- the plant does the opposite and exchanges the nitrate for an OH(-), the pH of the solution is increased.
If plants absorbed nutrients in a perfectly symmetrical fashion, they would not increase or decrease pH as overall charge changes would be compensated. However ?? as no one is perfect- plants absorb nutrients at different rates and they therefore create a ??pull? towards a certain pH region. If a plant absorbs nitrate heavily it will start to contribute far more OH(-) than H3O(+) ions into the solution and the result will be a net increase in pH. Depending on the composition of the nutrients and the overall growth stage of the plant, different net movements in pH can be achieved by the plant.
The most influential factor in the changes of pH within a solution is generally the composition of the nitrogen component of the solution. When plants absorb ammonium ions NH4(+) they tend to decrease pH while nitrate ?? as mentioned above ?? tends to increase pH when absorbed. If you contribute a percentage of the nitrogen in your solution as ammonia the net effect will be a beneficial ??absorption pH buffer? since plants will take nitrogen in both forms, effectively delaying the onset of important pH variations. Of course, the ratio of nutrients also performs a vital role since plants?? nutrient absorption mechanism are largely non-specific and they are greatly influenced by the different concentrations of nutrients within the solutions. Having a nutrient solution designed to provide an adequate balance will be vital in helping you control pH fluctuations.
On part two of this ??understanding pH in Hydroponics? post I will talk about the range of pH plants can live in, how they adapt to changes in pH and other interesting aspects that will help you better understand the role and true importance of pH within a hydroponic crop. I hope that today you have acquired a rough idea of what pH represents, the nature of pH changes and some basic things that can be done to improve the pH balance within your hydroponic culture.
Yesterday ?? on the first part of this article ?? we talked about the nature of pH, the origin of pH changes in hydroponics growing and why these changes happen with time within a hydroponic culture, I also talked a little bit about how to prevent pH changes by building a balanced solution with a given percentage of nitrogen given as ammonium. On the second part of this article I am going to talk about the adaptation of plants against pH changes, why certain pH levels are needed and why there is an important over-focus on the importance of pH which does not need to be maintained in ranges as narrow as most growers believe.
What is the ideal range of pH for plant growth ? The fact is that plants can grow ideally from a pH of 5.5 to about 7.0. Above or below these values certain changes start to happen within the chemistry of the solution that makes nutrients less available to the plant. The large importance of adequate ?? yet not excessive ?? control of pH values is to maintain an optimum absorption of nutrients for your plants. When we go below a pH of 5.5 certain nutrients like iron become very readily available while nutrients like phosphorous and nitrogen become much less available. This lack of availability has two main causes. The first one is the overall change of chemical species within the solution, with the newly generated species being difficult or impossible to assimilate by the plant while the second one is that species that become extremely available generate a strong antagonic effect against some nutrients. For example, iron is antagonic with phosphorous and with a pH decrease below 5, the absoprtion of iron becomes extremely easy and therefore the aborption of P becomes more difficult, the overall formation of acid phosphate species which are also not so readily available by the plant further reduces P availability. An image shown below gives you a good idea of the availability of nutrients for plant growth as pH changes.
However most growers tend to believe that the pH level of their nutrient solution is the pH level that plants have around their roots, something which is actually not correct in the sense that plants have evolved local pH adaptation mechanisms to survive to changes in soil pH. When you measure the pH of your nutrient solution you are measuring the pH of the ??bulk? while the pH of the actual root-zone of your plants might be within the ideal zone for nutrient absoprtion. Therefore growers usually underestimate the actual capacity of their plants to correct pH and spend an enormous amount of time tinkering with pH to make it ??ideal?.
The fact here is that plants do not like abrupt pH changes like those that happen when you add pH up/down to continuously adjust your nutrient solution??s pH levels. Plants can deal perfectly with a slow pH increase caused by nutrient absorption from 5.5 to 6.5 but when you ?? in a matter of seconds ?? revert the pH back from 6.5 to 5.5 in a matter of seconds you are causing your plants significant levels of stress since they are simply not used within their natural environment to such quick pH changes.
The easiest way I have found to deal with pH is to simply not obsess with it. Most solutions that are well balanced and contain about 10-15% of the nitrogen as ammonium and about 20-40 ppm of phosphorous will adequately contain pH within the 5.5 to 7 pH region from the beginning of your nutrient cycle to the time when the nutrient solution has to be changed. As a matter of fact ?? beyond the initial adjustment ?? the changing of pH can be avoided if the nutrient solution is adequately formulated and given in a quantity of at least one gallon per plant. Plants develop well around these pH levels and the improvement you gain from obsessing about perfect pH zone levels will be lost by the stress you put into your plant roots with pH corrections. Of course, there are easy and almost perfect solutions to pH control like the method using ion exchange resins I mentioned in a previous post. A method that mimics the way in which pH is naturally buffered within soil.
Therefore if you want to have a great hydroponic crop with little maintenance and a very good yield I would advice you to prepare your own nutrients taking pH-self balancing and adequate nutrient ratios into account. Certainly this method will give you a lot of control over your composition and a great saving in solution costs.
I hope that after reading these two posts on pH in hydroponics you have now grown a much better understanding of how pH is, how it works and how it evolves in a hydroponic culture. It is very important for you to understand that pH plays a vital role in nutrient absorption but that obsessing with strict pH zones is not beneficial for your plants in the sense that constant additions that cause quick changes in pH values cause stress to their root zone. Adequate nutrient design and a good understanding of how nutrient interact is therefore important for the correct use and low maintenance of a hydroponic crop.
*Happy Growing from MimbresValley.
Hello MimbresValley,
Thought I'd check your thread and see what you were up to.
Good article about High Times advertisers, I had seen it before. Part of this fellows problem was shipping the stuff to his address where the grow was located. Not smart in the first place, second was the HT connection.
I have bought incredible amounts of stuff and guess not raised a flag. I've even bought LED grow lights by Theroreme Inovation and hort ultra-sonic fogger by Frapaplas, both from Canada. You need to provide not just name and address but soical security number or bussiness tax ID for the NAFTA paperwork. ;)Not for the parinoid stonner.
BTW nice bubble bucket setup, love the DWC (death without cause) has me LOL.
Your PH article can be summed up as, PH shift is good and is expected and wanted.
Take care.
OM
thanks for stopping in, I forgot i named this thread Hydro made simple:stoned:, you summed it up perfectly.
Pretty awesome, DWC is argueably the best hydro method for productivity and ease of use. I just drill holes through the lid for the airlines. Temperature is so important cuz if it gets high, your water is going to stink with all the bacteria growing in there. I had outdoor temp one day of 100F and found out the hard way what happens. Pew! A/C or chiller for hot locations. So what's your fert?
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
That is without a doubt the BEST description of Ph and why there is a drift. Very informative Do you have anymore of the orignal article you can post, or direct me to the source?
That whole article needs made a sticky.
I sure wish I could have seen your simplified bubbler bucket before I wasted over $4,000 on this nightmare of a learning curve I have been on:mad:, tis why they call me Daddynobucks(nobrains)
Daddy
that is the whole article:thumbsup:
Glad you enjoyed, I really enjoyed it as well, great explanation.
Ill post more stuff from him up over here. He just changed the website URL so I have to look through my email and find the new one.