Yellow Leaf Dots Spreading Completely Over Some Leaves (It's not spider mites)

Only pertains to flowering plants. The issue shows up at 6 weeks.

What is your experience level? (first timer, novice, experienced...)experinced

Your Equipment:
.1) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's) HPS 1000 and MH 400 for last 2 weeks
.2) Distance from tops? 12-16"
.3) Reflector type? (cool tube set-up, bat wing, enclosed reflector, bare bulb...)Vertizontal (1000) and Sunsystems for the 400
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? 750 cfm
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan?Yes
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 1000-6500K, 400-2700K

Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...)FF Ocean Forest
.8) Size of container.3 gallon
.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings? no rockwool cubes

Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap, bottled or filtered) What's it's ph before adjusting?RO-6.0
11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...) drops into water and color match
12) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...) Dolomite if below 6
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. One feeding in flower cycle, Floral Nectar 5 drops in a quart and Ultra Snowstorm 5 drops in a quart...it does without these nutes also
14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering?I water about every other day 2 cups or so, only when plants need it
15) Any additives or tea's? (Superthrive, CalMag, molasses, Mother's Earth...)No
16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate?Stable
17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? Have not checked runoff. 6.0 incoming
18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray? No

Your growroom:
19) Indoors or outdoors?In
20) What size of closet, room or hut?5x10x8
21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off?Not measured, but currently 75-80, unk humidity, lights off 60ish
22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom?No

Your strain:
23) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?)White Widow, Strawberry Cough, Haze, RMT, plus indica and sativa dominates, 8 different species
24) From seeds or clones?Well they all started from seeds, but live as clones
25) Is this an autoflower strain? Nope

Ok that is about the best I can do. I don't have runoff, so no idea what the pH would be. This happens to every one of my strains at about 5-6 weeks into flower. It happens if I give the flower nutes or not.

Where do you get straight molasses and how much in a gallon and how ofter Rusty?

A couple different situations and mediums. But you might want to ask a mod to give your questions their own thread.

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Originally Posted by WashougalWonder

Only pertains to flowering plants. The issue shows up at 6 weeks.

Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...)FF Ocean Forest

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Perhaps buffers in the soil are starting to fade at about 6 weeks. Kinda early for FF.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WashougalWonder

Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap, bottled or filtered) What's it's ph before adjusting?RO-6.0
11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...) drops into water and color match
12) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...) Dolomite if below 6

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Ummm...what do you do with the dolomite? Most companies add dolomite to potting mixes to neutralize the ph to about a 7.0ish. Not sure it's recommended to adjust water with it, or sprinkle it on the soil. In an emergency, perhaps. but I wouldn't recommend doing it full-time. It will build-up. Did this problem start when you started using the limewater?

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Originally Posted by WashougalWonder

14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering?I water about every other day 2 cups or so, only when plants need it

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Do you water till runoff appears once in a while, or are you really that conservative with watering? Gotta get moisture and nutrients to the lower root zones, and an occational flush to release built-up nutrients and salts helps too. (I do monthly mini-flushes. 1 gallon of properly ph'd water to gallon of pot size.)

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Originally Posted by WashougalWonder

17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? Have not checked runoff. 6.0 incoming

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6.0 is too low, and nutrients will lower the ph further. Ingoing ph for peat-based mediums is between 6.3 and 6.8 ish. Pull it out of this range and you risk lockout or using-up the soil buffers prematurely.

I use Grandma's or Brer Rabbit unsulfered molasses at the grocery store. 1/2 tsp per gallon of properly ph'd water per week from 3 or 4 weeks into flower up until finishing flush.

I take the dolomite if the PH is too low and crush a little bit into a very fine powder in mix in the bucket of sitting water that is kept for daily use. I only use if the PH is low. No the problem did not start with that, started watching PH closer.

Yes sometimes I make sure and get a little run off, no dry roots, have checked.

I could try a flush at a specific point, but my environment is so wet the pot will take forever to use it all up....Pacific Northwest on the wet side.

Now, at this point I am trying Cal/Mag supplement, it makes the water very alkaline, 5.0 with just 2 tablespoons in 5 gallons. How do you suggest to raise the PH back up before watering over using dolomite.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WashougalWonder

I take the dolomite if the PH is too low and crush a little bit into a very fine powder in mix in the bucket of sitting water that is kept for daily use. I only use if the PH is low. No the problem did not start with that, started watching PH closer.

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Ok.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WashougalWonder

Yes sometimes I make sure and get a little run off, no dry roots, have checked.

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Cool.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WashougalWonder

I could try a flush at a specific point, but my environment is so wet the pot will take forever to use it all up....Pacific Northwest on the wet side.

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More perlite in the potting mix would help alleviate the moisture retention.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WashougalWonder

Now, at this point I am trying Cal/Mag supplement, it makes the water very alkaline, 5.0 with just 2 tablespoons in 5 gallons. How do you suggest to raise the PH back up before watering over using dolomite.

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Perhaps a transplant into fresh FF soil, which already has buffers in it. Or you could get some phUp...
(5.0 ph is acidic)

Anyone out there that can help the OP and his issues?
If you get no help in here, copy-n-paste your original post to the hydro forum. :thumbsup:

I think if we figure this out, both of us will benefit as the description including the dry crispy leaves fits to a T.

Alkaline, acid, it is one side of 7.0 LOL :hippy::stoned:

PH in 6.0 PH out 7.5 yesterday on one that got too dry and the water just went right through.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WashougalWonder

PH in 6.0 PH out 7.5 yesterday on one that got too dry and the water just went right through.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by WashougalWonder

11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...) drops into water and color match

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You can't determine runoff ph using the cocor-coded test kits. The tinting of the runoff water skews results. Likely your runoff ph is fine.

How long have they been in the same pot with the same potting soil? Old soil that has been repeatedly dried and moistened gret a tad crusty and won't absorb water likelit used to.
If water is going right through, try a surfactant. (a surfactant lowers the surface tension of the water, allowing it to absorb easier into the medium) I use non-antibacterial dishsoap. 1/2 tsp per gallon of properly ph'd water. Should only need one application, but use no more than two waterings in a row. Make sure it's not antibacterial, or ir will kill the beneficial bacteria in the soil.

Doubtful Jessie's problems are from the same thing. He's using a hybrid drip method, not soil. Perhaps similar synptoms, but doubtful same problem. Only way I can see it might be the same cause, is if his drip timers go too long between waterings, and you both are not getting enough moisture to the roots. But this is guesswork, as my hydro experience is zip, zero, nada. :thumbsup:

Thanks Rusty, if I ever figure this out I will let you know what I found out. For now, I am trying a run with a little cal/mag as the only change.

Looks like this is a more common issue than I thought
http://boards.cannabis.com/plant-pro...py-leaves.html
Pictures in that one are perfect examples.
BUT
I think maybe adding cal/mag is resolving the issue. I have to use a buffer to get my pH to 6.5......using sodium bicarbonate, doesn't take very much either.

My current formula is 1 tsp of cal/mag in 5 gallons water, balance pH after and that is a spritz of bicarb.