getting to final stages of bud! need help! leafs!

what is the best way to rasie the ph and quickest?

i use Rhino Skin for a ph up at 1ml/gal...my water is 6.9-7.0 and clean...so it will depend on your source water as to dosage!

i like using this because it also has a 0-0-13 rating:jointsmile:

so i was testing my ph again in the soil and there all very low 6.1 5.9 6.0 i need to raise it so i went and bought dolomite lime seeing as its a good ph neutralizer and my nutrients are getting locked out.
I got Whitney Farms Prilled dolomite lime
I think your supposed to mix with soil but i cant at this point so i want to add with water if possible
If i have 3 gallon pots how much dolomite should i add per gal of water and how much should i give them?
any help appreciated:thumbsup:

I have leaf damage that looks exactly the same and it was caused by root aphids! They will squash your yield!
Have you noticed any bugs at all....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gare0440

so i was testing my ph again in the soil and there all very low 6.1 5.9 6.0 i need to raise it so i went and bought dolomite lime seeing as its a good ph neutralizer and my nutrients are getting locked out.
I got Whitney Farms Prilled dolomite lime
I think your supposed to mix with soil but i cant at this point so i want to add with water if possible
If i have 3 gallon pots how much dolomite should i add per gal of water and how much should i give them?
any help appreciated:thumbsup:

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I would mix the lime into the water....desolve completely. You want to raise the Ph ....slowly.
One teaspoon or less per gallon...and water as normal...(the new growth will tell if it worked)

One way to avoid this problem is doing your final transplant 1 or 2 weeks into 12/12 next time. This seems like a classic case of the lime buffers running out in the soil, which usually takes 6-8 weeks.

Also growing from seed, 3 gal is a little small IMO. Even if the plants were vegged only a short time, I'd use at least a 4 gal, maybe a 5 for the final transplant.

There's only 3 things I can think of that may be the cause.
Overwatering will leach-out nutrients and promote root rot. (does your rootball stink like rotting food?)
Losing buffer strength in the soil is a strong possibility, too. Tiz why I do my final transplant about two weeks into 12/12. Adds fresh ph buffers (in the fresh soil) to help with keeping ph in line, and avoids rootbound issues later.
Calcium might be the ticket though. 1/2 to 1 tsp unsulfered molasses per gallon of properly ph'd water, once a week. Provides calcium, magnesium, iron, and a few other handy micronutes. Plus, it is a carbo-load base ingredient. (carbo-load products, CalMag Plus, and many, many other "MegaBud" products are a watered-down molasses or synthetic molasses)