TRY TO IDENTIFY THIS NUTE PROBLEM! With Pictures For Your Viewing Pleasure...

Too much Mg will lock-out nutrients, I'd ease-up on the CalMag. <doh> Ever think of trying molasses? (provides the same stuff but cheaper)

Wait till soil is dried-out a tad and see if any roots are still actively growing (white tips) before the flush. A wet rootball falls apart when checking the roots, so let it dry first. Don't tear-up the rootball checking, just take a quick look. Flush and resume nutrients if looking ok. (perhaps 1/2 strength twice a week)

Worse case...roots are damaged and leaves won't recover. Eventually, I'd harvest and re-veg, including trimming the roots and a good flush once in it's new pot.

Sounds like a soil mix similar to mine. I use it for both vegetative and reproductive stages. (vegging and flowering) Any soil you use will take some getting used to.
With a well-rounded organic soil, you'll likely want to transplant into final container a couple of weeks early to help burn-off some nitrogen before flowering stage hits hard. The ladies will stretch for the first couple/few weeks of flower, but will fill-in if given enough time.

Thanks for your help on this, Mr. Trichome.

I haven't had the guts to check the root ball until now. Here's some pics...

What do you think? The brown stuff on the bottom is actually just dirt, if you look really close. I use the hydroton lava rocks as a drainage expediter.

This is the driest plant I had, and it also happened to be the one that first exhibited symptoms of the lesions. This plant was an experiment to see if cutting all the affected leaves off right away would 1) speed cure of the problem, or 2) shrink bud size. It was certainly number 2. The buds are really small, but the trichomes certainly are not. Hereâ??s a pic of that too. It looked so nice in the sunlight. :smokin:

Good job with the new step. (checking roots) Just don't drop the rootball, and careful with branches. ;)

Roots are looking good with what looks like plenty of room. Shouldn't need to chop-n-re-grow, lol.

I'd flush and wait a week, then resume 1/2 nutes twice a week. Have some patience during recovery.

More medium equals more rootspace. Ever try putting the drainage rocks in the drip tray instead of inside the pot? Much easier on transplant day, (picking out rocks can damage the roots) and after harvest. (when you have to fish-out the rocks for cleaning and re-use)
You do have to watch ingoing water and it's runoff, but that's an easy adjustment worth making. :thumbsup:

I want to thank everyone for their help and advise.

I just flushed with 7 gallons of water each. They are in 2 gallon pots. After 20 hours the 2 plants that turned yellow are already visibly recovering. Their leaf veins have a new green color which is spreading! Even in the yellowest of leaves! In the leaves with lesions, the lesions have stopped growing and have turned light brown. They used to grow with a dark color until consuming the leaf. This is good! Pics below���.

Iâ??m afraid to use any fertilizer with this hot soil. Maybe just Sweet from now on.

I still have yet to hear anyoneâ??s guess on the nute deficiency/excess I am experiencing. Has anyone ever seen this type of nute burn? The lesions are atypical and occurred well before I used any nutrients. Has anyone ever seen this kind of nute burn???

Sorry, I seem to have lost this thread last week.

Would recommend not using the Sweet as a stand-alone additive/nutrient. Start your ladies on the AN nutes you got, and let 'em recover.

Sweet, CalMag, CalMag Plus, and many carbo-load products are all derivitives of molasses. (likely says it's sugar beet derived or something similar in the ingredients...) Too much magnesium will lock-out other nutrients...which results in the yellowing of the plant.

Scared to ask, but how are they now?

R.T. its me again;dexter68. wanted to ask you if theres a benifit to putting your plant in complete darkness b-4 the chop.just seen u were on here , know that you know that i know u know.yeah.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome

Sorry, I seem to have lost this thread last week.

Would recommend not using the Sweet as a stand-alone additive/nutrient. Start your ladies on the AN nutes you got, and let 'em recover.

Sweet, CalMag, CalMag Plus, and many carbo-load products are all derivitives of molasses. (likely says it's sugar beet derived or something similar in the ingredients...) Too much magnesium will lock-out other nutrients...which results in the yellowing of the plant.

Scared to ask, but how are they now?

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Hey Rusty, Thanks for getting back to me. The plants are all doing much better now! Today is exactly 7 days from the big flush. 2 days ago, fresh white pistols began appearing in the buds of the most severely affected plants, and the buds are starting to grow again! Whoohoo! :thumbsup: The leaf veins of the indicas are slowly turning dark green again and the very yellow leaves of the sativas are turning green again all over, but slowly.

It soil was finally dry yesterday, so I waited until this morning to water. I noticed that some of the leaves that had began turning green were turning back to yellow. They've had no water for 7 days. I decided to add ONLY Sweet to the water at 7.5ml/gallon. The recommended dosage is 10ml/G for veg and 20ml/G for flower. I did notice it has Mg but I thought the Sulfur was what did the trick in Sweet. Damn, I did it again!

Well, that we know all about the problems Iâ??ve had with this grow, which is near the end, I have some more pictures of my new babies. See below, and click twice for a super close-up...This morning during watering, I noticed two of them are exhibiting the exact same lesions/necrotic spots on the veins as the much older plants! They are 16 days old after pre-germination.

The seedlings are planted in Black Gold Organic Seedling Mix (Ingredients: 70-80% Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, perlite, dolomite lime, and yucca extract as a wetting agent). They don't get any nutrients in the water, and there's basically none in the soil. <b>So, whatâ??s wrong with my water?</b> pH 6.2-6.5 (working on getting a pH pen for an accurate reading) Well water. There is red dirt all over this part of California, indicating a possible high iron content.

I read someone's post on putting high-powered magnets in the water to pull the iron out. I did that but didn't notice any iron on the magnets after 24 hours, not that I might anyway. Does this work?

And, check out the super-purple stemsâ?¦WTF? :(

sorry for interupting this thread. how do you post on here, I can only reply to threads.

No, the magnet won't work. Flushing helped though, I'm sure.
Sweet is not a nutrient. It's an additive that if overused, will kill your ladies.
The necrotic spots sound like possible overwatering issues, which can lead to root rot. Let 'em dry between flushes, waterings and feedings.

Leave seedlings alone (properly ph'd water only) till 4th or 5th set of leaves. You'll kill them otherwise. No additives, no nutrients, no sprays...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dexter68

R.T. its me again;dexter68. wanted to ask you if theres a benifit to putting your plant in complete darkness b-4 the chop.

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Some believe in the practice, but I've seen no evidence it's worth the effort. Perhaps it's strain-dependant. I'm guessing it likely changes the CBD:CBN ratio, but am doubtful it is doing what everyone is wanting the darkness to do. (increase trichomes)

I've even seen some that put 'em into darkness for a couple of weeks. :wtf:

That's the main problem with wives tales...too hard to prove, too hard to disprove...so it must be true in the eyes of the blind believer. :thumbsup:

I've only used Sweet twice. The last time was yesterday morning at 1/4 recommended dosage.

I always let my plants dry before watering, the exception being when I was finally able to afford nutes and over-watered and over-ferted.

Seedlings should never dry all the way out, but I do wait until the top of the soil is dry about 1/4-1/2" down. Seedling soil is light and fluffy, and I find that when it starts to dry, it dries out very quickly. I had just watered the seedlings before I noticed the little brown spots. That's when I took the picture. Did you look at the large-large view of the seedling close-ups? See those little brown spots? And see those dark-purple stems? I have NOT used any nutes, sprays, etc..

The ONLY common element between the two crops (the flowering crop & the seedling crop) is the water. There must be something in the water...or not in the water. I do not use hot water from the water heater. No crusties on my faucets. We drink it everyday.

I can't afford an RO system or an official water test, and my pH seems to be OK. It measures only 75ppm on average with the TDS pen. The average tap water in the US is 200-400ppm with "hard" water beginning at 200ppm so Iâ??d like to think 75 ainâ??t bad. How else can I check my water? :confused: