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hey faddenator i am also using a 400W hps bulb in a growtent and am using the foxfarm trio.... i havent really gotten full force yet as I am having problems getting the leaves to not die and they are only about a month old.... i am using foxfarm soil for some and happy frog for others. how do you like the foxfarm trio?
I actually haven't used them yet, but I'm insisting on it for my next grow. I based this decision on what I've heard on this forum. The only negative thing I've heard is that salts build up quickly in it - but this is easily remedied by regular (monthly) flushing.Quote:
Originally Posted by marcaka
If I'm not mistaken, Rusty swears by it - and if Rusty swears by it, it's gotta be good. :thumbsup: I bet you'll be happy you went with the FFT. :jointsmile:
In my garden, in the winter, the soil retains water longer than during the summer. Tiz why I add perlite when cold/humid. If the lower root zone isn't being allowed to "air-out' a tad, you can develop problems with oversaturation. There is usually no need to completely saturate the soil, except during a flush. You mentioned half-gallon of water per 3 gallon (or so) pot, I believe, plus additional waterings of around 1/2 gallon. In my garden I go through about half that. Did you by chance add perlite to the potting soil before use? If so, perhaps you use more perlite than I do which would retain less moisture when watering.
Did you find-out the MG schedule for their nutrients? (is it a weekly schedule that's listed, or does it say to feed every other week?) I'd find-out for certain, and start following the instructions.
Exactly what are you using to determine ingoing/runoff ph?
How long have the been inside the pots they are in? Just curious, because it doesn't usually take long to fill-in the rootball. There shouldn't really be "plenty of room" in the pot. Should look fairly tightly-packed unless it's only been a week or so.
Even if you cut the dosages in half for the Scotts or the MG, they are still about twice as 'strong' as other 'cannabis' nutrients. Compare their numbers to 'standard' cannabis nutes.
Are you using superthrive or something similar?
Is there a fan on 'em, for proper ventilation of heat and providing fresh air?
Ok I looked up the usage directions on scott's website. Apparently the feeding instruction are feed once every 7-14 days. so with a 50% solution on cannabis, it should be 7-14, correct? I guess this means i've been feeding about twice as much as I should.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
The roots- They are fairly compact, but when I say they have plenty of room I mean they dont seem like they will get bound any time soon. They have been in the pots for about a month though. I'm not going to bother transplanting as this would mean another long drive to get soil/pots/etc. Plus this grow is going to be over fairly soon (1 week left on one plant, probably 3 on the other one)
I'm not sure about your climate but here, in the winter, it is EXTREMELY dry. my soil dried up from a flush in 4 days. plus there is about 25% perlite in my mix.
I used testing strips about 3 weeks ago for the Ph... they turned out almost exactly the same as when I tested before transplanting, and the time before that. So my ph seems to be pretty stable.
I also do not use additives, and I do have fans/ventilation.
I'm starting to think its a combination of over-feeding and under-lighting. I don't have the means to add any more light, but I suppose I'll try flushing again soon.
forgive me if this is hard to follow, I'm in a bit of a rush. Thanks :thumbsup:
Likely, yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Faddenator
Most potting soils have enough buffering capability for around 6-8 weeks. The lime or limestone dust they add to buffer the soil degrades over time and ph will start to swing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Faddenator
Very cold here, and remarkabaly humid this winter. I use maybe 10 to 15% extra perlite, since my potting mix already has some. I add no extra perlite during the hot summer. (I live in the desert)Quote:
Originally Posted by Faddenator
What kind of test strips? For ingoing, clean water, they are fine. But with the strips, you are not able to properly ph the runoff water. Same thing with those freshwater aquarium test kits. The problem is that they show color-coded results. The tinting of runoff water skews results. Usually not even in the ballpark.Quote:
Originally Posted by Faddenator
How do you determine when pot is dry enough to require more water? I agree with the lighting though. More is better. (up to a certain point, that is) I love my HPS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Faddenator
Well there's your problem. No patience, lol. <kidding> <sort of>Quote:
Originally Posted by Faddenator
Damn... I should have thought of that. I'll definitely pick up a quality tester for my next grow (going to be a LOT better next time)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
I just check the soil with my finger, and if the top 3" are dry I check the weight of the pot to be sure there is no water lingering below that. I can hold the pot up easily with one hand when I water. And i CANT WAIT for my HPS. The government will be paying for it with a chunk of my tax return :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
Haha, I had to hurry and go pick up a girlfriend of mine. The name's mary jane. :jointsmile::jointsmile:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
what is the "proper" way to flush?
Once a month (on a watering day) I run 1.5 to 2 times the pot capacity with properly ph'd water, to release nutrient and salt build-up.
Now should the water be warm-lukewarm to help the salts dissolve or does it not matter too much?
Not too hot, not too cold. Any drastic change in root temps can stress the roots.