Return my 90w ufo?

ok both of you are having light shock problems when you change your lighting to a different kind of light/spectrum the plants go into shock they dont like it at all sooooooo you can leave it under just the ufo and it will adjust or both cfl and ufo either way its going to have to adjust to the ufo its better to stick with the same light except when switching to flower period but i would awsome the ufo is better than cfl's altho ive never tryed it trying to decide whether to get 1 or not they have some on ebay right now starting at 99 cents with 9.99 shipping!!! yes i know you guys said dont get the cheap ones but im on a budget and i dont really need it im going to add it to my cfl's and slowley take cfl's away hoping it wont shock them but it probably will maybe ill wait and use it on my new clones why are different brands better than others can anyone explain and will the cheap ones still work better than cfl's im currently using 12 26 watters on 2 plants vegging.. but im going to be adding 2 more plants and 2 more cfl's tomorrow for budding I'm using 400 watt hps but i live in a very very hott climate this summer i might want to use the ufo to bud while its hot maybe 2 of them what do you guys think? Sorry about not having any punctuation tired and about to go to bed.

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Originally Posted by DreadedHermie

Ahh, the sweet sting of chloroform.

That's why Hermie's eyes water after sex.

But, I'm not supposed to talk about that. Part of the plea deal... I'm sure everyone understands... :wtf:

Anyway, I like 660nm deep reds and 465nm blues for flower, about an 8:1 ratio. More blues inhibit stretch; more red stimulates late flowering with the strains I've worked with.

I use fluoros for veg, but somewhere around 2 reds to 1 blue would be in the ball park. (Procyons are 40:16, which is 2.5:1, disregarding the fact that the reds and blues are different type of emitters.)

abbazabba, if you fill out the form in my sig and start a separate thread people will try to figure out what you've got goin' on. Pics would help, and one of the spec sheet you got with your light might be interesting. But a meaningful answer begs more background info. Soil / hydro? Veg / flower? Etc.

Because the spec sheet says they're 120 deg doesn't make it so. Chinese LED specs are frequently unreliable.

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hahaha...I finally get it....I open my jar of curing buds and if I get too close I my eyes started to tear up a bit lol....I did not get that for sooo long....and not exactly certain I'm %100 correct still...either way very funny

I would stay away from the orange spectrum. We have found it does not work well.

Hope this is helpful.

agreed...I think the best choice is straight Red Blue 2:1/3:1 ratio....I'm planning on selling the setup I've got now and maybe starting over with something new and a new light with all blue and red leds! I will say that my results with LED is fuckin amazing tho! Saved a ton of money on power and got a nice yield as well....both plants went female....neither one hermied....this could be just because I got lucky/did a meticulous job on my first grow, but I know the LEDs helped out a lot and the plant loved em

I've read and done stringent research for a good while on LEDs- it's very possible to increase grow production from adding both LEDs and CFLs to your grow. Syncronize a schedule to use both maybe you will notice a balance. Good luck on your grow!

- 420session

It sounds like too close. So close is good for stopping the plant from growing upwards and making the lower parts get thicker. Assuming a typical 120 degree UFO, keep it about 3-6 inches from the top.

The plants will respond almost immediately to a change in light, and if the source is good it will respond quite favorably without the need for any supplementary additions.

The deep blue will really stunt growth up close, which is one reason I didn't include it in my custom panel. I like the little extra stretch for flowering room.

White LEDs suck, they're typically blue or UV diodes with phosphors on top. You lose efficiency with that phosphor layer by downshifting to different bands, and wasting energy in the green band.

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Originally Posted by McLuvin

I would stay away from the orange spectrum. We have found it does not work well.

Hope this is helpful.

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Specifically 610 area. The red-orange around 630 is quite efficient in photosynthesis.