400w Metal Halide for first month of flowering?

yes, it produces denser buds because theres less of them

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Originally Posted by Earthy Dank

Which would be better a 600w HPs on a light mover or a 600w mh and 600w HPS (disregarding price).

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Both, but you better be able to exhaust all the heat in that small space. The room is to small for a mover unless you are planning on trying one of those movers that spin.

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Originally Posted by growbe

Both, but you better be able to exhaust all the heat in that small space. The room is to small for a mover unless you are planning on trying one of those movers that spin.

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Its not a 3x3 area... that just how much light coveragre my 600w'er has. I really have like 10x20 feet of grow space... so space isn't an issue. So how long of a light rail could i use without lowering the light intensity? I think im going to get some "smart" ballasts when i save up some cash.

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Originally Posted by growbe

If you have the means to use a mh then use it during the stretch or just until you see buds start to form. MH bulbs will help decrease the stretch. .

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This is FABULOUS advice. During this period you can also continue to use some nitrogen in your fert schedule. Then go up to a 600 or even 1000 HPS to finish.

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Originally Posted by Earthy Dank

Its not a 3x3 area... that just how much light coveragre my 600w'er has. I really have like 10x20 feet of grow space... so space isn't an issue. So how long of a light rail could i use without lowering the light intensity? I think im going to get some "smart" ballasts when i save up some cash.

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Ooooops, sorry. I thought it was only a 3x3. So I use to grow in a room that was 4 x 7. I ran a 1000 watt bulb on a mover in that room and ave. around 34oz's dried, but I had my grows pretty much dialed in. So for the most part you have a tad bigger room. Now, why not try 2 rails each with a 1000 watt bulb. We all know that dual spectrum is the best, so start one light on one side and the other on the opposite side, crossing in the middle. One will be a mh and the other an hps. Get switchable ballasts so if you want all mh during veg. and all hps in flower you can. If you feel this is not enough then 3 rails, 600 watts each, switchable.
Peace.
P.S. I have grown with and without rails. Adding a rail increased my yield around 8 oz's growing LST. Read that again (8 oz's). Rails allow you to get the light very close to the plants without using glass.

Will a 600 watt cover a 3x6 area? Or will i need another light if i get a light rail. Im savin up to get a digi ballast and a decent hood... I like the sunsystem hoods..

P.S. back to the MH thing, Could the absence of the red spectrum delay the onset of flowering?

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Originally Posted by Earthy Dank

P.S. back to the MH thing, Could the absence of the red spectrum delay the onset of flowering?

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Nope! You've got the appropriate photoperiod, and that's the crucial thing.

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Originally Posted by Earthy Dank

Will a 600 watt cover a 3x6 area? Or will i need another light if i get a light rail. Im savin up to get a digi ballast and a decent hood... I like the sunsystem hoods..

P.S. back to the MH thing, Could the absence of the red spectrum delay the onset of flowering?

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Never used a 600 on a rail in that size of a room, but I'm growing in a 6x2.25 room right now with 670 watts with a rail and it's working great.

Sorry im curious, how do you keep the light close to the plants if its on a track though? A buddy of mine told me that a 400w would only compensate 2 plants, 4 if i switched them during 12/12 cycle.

solid6:
The rail distributes light evenly and prevents 'hot spots' in the room. It's mounted at an appropriate distance above the canopy in general.
A stationary 400 will do a 3x3 floor space nicely; how many plants are under there depends upon your grow style. Small plants=more of them.