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hmmm, sounds reasonable I guess.
Also, from the things that I have read there seems to be a general consensus that root development is slowed if plants have 24/0 lighting after the initial one or two weeks. So some people use 24/0 in there mother section so that they don't have to re-pot as often.
when Master breeders like 'Shantibaba' and 'Chimera' recommend anything besides 18/6 and 12/12, I'll switch ... lots going on in a plant during night cycles, too ... :jointsmile:
oh, Opie !! .. thanks for the +Rep, but what was your message 'only for hydro' ... ? ... didn't understand that ... :jointsmile:
Sweet, things are getting a little clearer here..Thanks so much Opie and everyone else..great message board!!!! Whenever you have a second a few more questions for ya..
I don't have another system set up yet, i planned on tackling that when it was time..I kind of just assumed that i had too..I didn't know i could veg and flower in this small of a system with successful results...Once time, i planned on going the storage bin/air stone route..read a lot about them and seems to be a decent DIY system thats not that hard to assemble..
So,
1) If I stay in the system with the 3" pots, should i take the sprinkler out and replace it with a couple of air stones? If so when, and would i have to spray the roots or leaves with water? Also if not then should i just make the sprinkler shorter so its not in the mess of roots??
2)When do i need to start supporting them? I do have a light breeze on them
3)And what the hell does DWC stand for..For some reason its the one i haven't been able to find..:wtf:
THanks for all the help Opie and others..
Opie
What are your PPMs when your seedling(s) reach say the 2nd to 3rd node.
Thats where my baby is right now. I just grow for my personal smoke and this is my second grow for the hizzdro. Right now I have an 18 gal res put about 10 gal of regular tap water. Net pot suspended from the hole I cut. Filled with hydroten
I use AN nutes 3pt I have some Cal mag and just ordered some HyOx. Anyway, my meter reflects 5.7 Ph and 600 PPM nutes mixed appropiately. It looks healthy and all seems to be going good. I used Big Bud for my flower on my first grow. Things turned out really better than I expected. I just went to 18/6 I agree with the rest theory. I am a little worked up regarding the water times. Basically, I have a timer that gives me 14 set times so on off on off etc counts as one of the 14 so I have it set up to a good 1.5 hrs drink first thing when the lights come on then I stagger it on off throughout the day every couple hrs with an on time of roughly 30 - 40 minutes. I give it one good last dose of about 1 hour then the lights go out about 30 minutes after. I have this looping 7 days a week Does this sound okay?
Also at what point do you know when to kick the PPMs up. I mean the plant cant talk, yes I know it talks through what you see but how do you just sense its wanting more vitamins. Is there a theory to that? I know good ole experience is the best answer but seriously, any thoughts regarding this (not strippers) hehe!
I use a 400 W interchangeable MH/HPS hovers about 3 feet up.
Your thoughts on all this is appreciated!
Thanks
Peace
Here is a photo of my soon to be bride
[attachment=o165754]
Well I guess I was thinking that if somebody does soil grows only, then he starts doing hydro as well, he should have a stronger reputation. Makes sense to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by the image reaper
If it were me, I would use what you have for rooting only, and have an Emily's Garden type DWC to put the plants in once they are rooted. This is an awesome system for beginners as it is real easy to maintain and produces some fantastic results. Run Emily's Garden through a search engine, then buy one for like $80 or build one for like $35. I've built several over the years.Quote:
Originally Posted by GrowMe
1) Yes I would take out the sprinkler and put a couple air stones in there once the roots start hanging down by the sprinkler. Ultimately you will want some way to change the water level, so a little of the roots (about 3") will be in water at all times. This will make sure they never get dried out to the point the plants will get stressed, even during power outages. The sprinkler will not function properly once the roots start hanging that low. You do not have to spray either the leaves or the roots. However, many people insist that plants want to be fed from above as well as below. I have never folair fed, but I am about to. I got some worm casting liquid to spray this time around. As long as you keep your water level anywhere from 0 to 4 inches from the bottom of your pots, the bubbles bursting from the air stones will saturate the roots that are in air. I would not try to keep lowering the sprinkler to keep the roots out. You are going to end up with one big tangled root mass that will take up most of the volume of the bucket. Instead I would have a valve that just turns the sprinkler off once the roots reach it. Like I said, it would just be much easier if you had a dedicated rooting system and a dedicated growing system.
2) You start supporting them as soon as it looks like they might be having a hard time supporting themselves. This is normally not until some point after flowering is induced, but with 3" net pots it will most likely be at some point before flowering. Depends on a lot of things, but it could be as soon as one month after they have started growing good. I highly recommend the use of a screen. I think this is the easiest way to support the plants. Just put it about a foot or 18" above the pots, and tie the branches to the screen with twisty ties. This way you can also spread out your foliage to your delight, in order to take up area efficiently.
3) Ah, come on. DWC should be easy to find. Anyway it means Deep Water Culture, and it's the best hydro method for beginners in my opinion. It's real easy to set up and maintain, and it gives you about 100 lb. of dried bud per branch.
quote=GodBud
What are your PPMs when your seedling(s) reach say the 2nd to 3rd node.
Your picture looks like yours is just slightly smaller than mine when I take mine out of my cloner and put them into my system. Before than I am using only tap water with a little B1, which makes a PPM of about 325. At the point of transplant, I start using just a touch of nutrients, which ups the PPM to about 450. I leave it like that for a few days, then go to 600. One week later 1000, one week later, 1400 where it pretty much stays until 10 days before harvest.
Right now I have an 18 gal res put about 10 gal of regular tap water. Net pot suspended from the hole I cut. Filled with hydroten
Sounds good, but I think that you could start giving them a very small amount of nutrients. Also, if you don't have an airstone in your res, I would definately put one or more in there. Better yet, a powerhead submersible pump that circulates the solution and injects air. Better yet, both.
I use AN nutes 3pt I have some Cal mag and just ordered some HyOx. Anyway, my meter reflects 5.7 Ph and 600 PPM nutes mixed appropiately.
Oh I see you are using nutes already. 600 seems slightly high for the size of your plant, but it certainly looks healthy, so I wouldn't change anything at this point.
I am a little worked up regarding the water times. Basically, I have a timer that gives me 14 set times so on off on off etc counts as one of the 14 so I have it set up to a good 1.5 hrs drink first thing when the lights come on then I stagger it on off throughout the day every couple hrs with an on time of roughly 30 - 40 minutes. I give it one good last dose of about 1 hour then the lights go out about 30 minutes after. I have this looping 7 days a week Does this sound okay?
This sounds fine, especially seeing how healthy your plant looks. I don't worry about what time of the day it is, I just use the same on and off times 24 hrs per day. If your plant can handle going without water for 6 hrs at night, I imagine it could go 2 hrs without during the day. You want to give it as little water as possible without stressing the plant. You can find out exacty what this is by very slowly decreasing pump on times while watching very carefully for any signs of stress. Once you see stress from lack of moisture, go back to the setting you used just before that one. Preferably you'll get a cyclestat when money situations permit, then you can do something like 2 minutes on and 1 hour off, or something. The timer you have will work fine for now though, just try to figure out the maximum off time you can have.
Also at what point do you know when to kick the PPMs up. I mean the plant cant talk, yes I know it talks through what you see but how do you just sense its wanting more vitamins. Is there a theory to that? I know good ole experience is the best answer but seriously, any thoughts regarding this (not strippers) hehe!
I don't listen to my plant. I am her master and she must obay. Actually I just kinda have always followed the schedule I mentioned above, and everything just seems to work out. I don't worry about if a plant wants more vitamens unless I see signs of it. Then I get out the problem charts, and see if I can't figure out what the problem is. Eventually you will get a schedule figured out and not have to worry about it so much.
I use a 400 W interchangeable MH/HPS hovers about 3 feet up.
That's a good distance for how old your plant looks. However I suggest starting to move it closer, the closer the better. You figure out how close the same way you figure minimum pump on time. Just move it a little closer at a time, changing slowly, while watching for signs of heat stress. I have a cool tube for my 400W in my veg section, so the plants can almost touch the glass. Otherwise, maybe end up with the light about 1 foot away?
Thanks
No problem.
oh, well, thank you, Opie ... coming from someone I respect like you, thats something ... When I read it, it went right over my head :D something that doesn't take much effort, these days haha :jointsmile:Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie Yutts