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Actual light flow is approx 5600lumens, if compare to the sun light according to the PAR ratio then it will be 16800 lumens.
It consumes 75 watts, and the time life is 100 000 hours, which is 10 years of constant lighting.
LED frequencies I tried to match with results of this research http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-gr...-opinions.html
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10 mothers are in work, hope soon will be more )
yesterday I have cut 26 clones
today 9
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Looks good :jointsmile:
Peace :thumbsup:
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Don't say anithig about light intensity before you read and see the crop of mine)
From some older posts:
1. Low intensity of PAR (minimally admissible) - a range of intensity at which growth of vegetative bodies occurs, but are not formed high-grade generative bodies (bud). Thus photosynthesis has low parameters. For photophilous plants it is intensity in a range 15-30 w/m^2
2. Optimum intensity PAR - a range of intensities at which the maximal accumulation of a biomass in unit of time is observed. Thus The part of a useful part of a crop to sheathe makes 50-70 %. Photosynthesis and growth are well balanced. For photophilous plants it is a range of PAR 150-220 w/m^2
3. Sating intensity of PAR - the maximal intensity of light at which the output of photosynthesis on a plateau of light saturation is reached, ie maximal photosynthesis. Thus, growth inhibition of a stalk and other axial bodies is observed - plants get the undersized form. The part of a useful part of a crop to sheathe is high, but the general biomass collects less, than at optimum intensity as growth is braked (400 PAR w/m^2 and more), requres tripple nutrition feeding
LED 40x70 lighter produces 76 PAR watts and if you convert it in metres which is 270PAR watts /m^2, which is 50 watts more than so called optimum par intensity (2). But far away from 400parwatts/m^2. However these calculations are approximate, to obtain clear scientific light intensity must be measured or the yields of plants under various lightening must be compared.
Goal 560 plants 20 lamps of mine
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By the way we already can compare results under various lighting.
You can see top fan leafes of my freshly cutted clones from under the l e d lamps in the cup and my first mother from under 4 52watts T5clfs in front of them. Clones in the cup are choped from children of that mother mother cutting in front. They are all the same sort but differences are incredible. I had to cut down this mother and chop clones from her cause I bought distilled water, but its appeare tobe technical distilled water and leafes started to curl downward, yesterday I found many rootings started to grow, would be intresting to observe how her growth will go after transplanting back to soil. Recently I started to buy water in the shop rather than using tap water and the effect was magnificent : clones started to root faster and plants growth increased rapidly.
Can't wait till Ed Rosenthal will errive :weedpoke:
PS
16/8
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looks good but i have yet to see a flowering plant under LED that made it, they do good in veg but die in flower, atleast the few threads i have seen on it have died.
even stll you could veg and and keep mother plants while using not even a 1/4 of the electric needed to power other lights,looks damn good i hope yours makes it.
stop taking big clones thats why they look like shit, take a 4inch clone and remove 80% of the lower leaves and they will root faster.
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Looking forward to seeing the finished products. I love experimentation. Props for spending that kind of dough on something that might not work. :p
I would've taken the easy way out and did what Al B. said. lol Be cool. I'll be watching! :D
The Fog :rastasmoke:
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TGF, hps is no the easy way for me for several reasons, it's bloody hot, it eats loads of electricity, and it's 30% PAR efficient with unbalanced spectrum.
As Zandor says : if you go cheap you grow cheap. Each lamp costs 600$ and 6 hours of work.
Invision it would be grateful, if you would show me some links to those threads