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504W Test with LED Grow Lights by Hydro-Grow - Grasscity.com Forums LEDGirl...maybe you can answer the question that you were asked in this now defunct thread? It would definitely add credibility to your story.Nice pics tho-that purple sure draws em in...dont it?Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDGirl
Kinda funny how she bagged ass after she posted her advertisement.Shrewd...I'll give her that.
Following Ledgirl's lead, I figured it was time to introduce MY led grow light.You guys were wrong about the wavelengths.It's green yal...these are my patented "Kermit Green" .25 watt diodes.The unit is 15 watts- but you need 75 of them to cover a 4x4 grow area.I think I need to work on the name tho-:thumbsup:;)
LOL.
Got me on dat one. :D
My lights use the real missing wavelength: Starfish Brown!!
LOL!! It's like "sunburst orange" from prosource(more Chinese junk btw)-what the hell is sunburst orange:can I get some nm specs on that diode lol!!And Ledgirls crap is called "The Penetrator", which is aptly named because of the penetrating Ledgirl is doing to her customers.8 oz's with a 126w unit...my ass.Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadedHermie
Yeah, the specs on the "skidmark orange" diode states, "This POS diode did not make wavelength as a "red" so we are inventing some dumbass name to off them to gullible stoners."
(You know what your "brown starfish" is, right? :D)
Gross and proud of it, Hermie
lol-or it could be...balloon knot brown.Oh yeah...I can do gross. And carotenoid development?LOL!!
We make l.e.d wrong time
The poor craftsman blames his tools. :beatdeadhorse:
Oh, look! An "Ignore" feature. :p
I wasn't sure it would work.
Seems to work very well indeed.
FWIW
7:1:1...red(630nm) Blue(460nm) Orange(610nm)
try these:)
7:1:1
But go 660nm for the red:
Both of LED bulbs with 660nm and 630nm wavelength give red color, but LED 660nm bulb shows brighter than 630, also it is more expensive than 630nm .
I have just one female but my UFO has her in full flower at just under six foot tall.
No heat, no spike in electric bill.
I got my UFO (just bought a second one) from sun light sheds for about 2 bills.
As far as I can tell - worth every penny.
Hey folks,
I have one of the T1 smartlamps and one of the lumigrow lamps. both are 600 watts and have all the spectrums of light. I just finished my first grow. what I got was very good considering that my mentor did'nt but thats another chapter. I have noticed that your water use will be less that 1/2 of what you'd expect due to the lack of heat!!!! I also like the fact that they only use about 6$ worth of elec a month. With the lack of need for cooling and repacing bulbs ect in my opinion this is definately the way to go! cool quiet economical whats not to like? nothing technical here just the fact that I used them and I like them
g
Someone posted (Weezard I think) that it takes a few extra weeks to finish them when using LED. Considering what you said about watering (and I have heard many others say) we could add some extra perlite (or whatever your soil amendment of choice) and make sure there is plenty of circulation in the grow box. That should increase the watering frequency which should improve growth.
It seems to be pretty well established that an ambient air temp of 85f is the optimal temperature for most strains to flower. Therefore if we set thermostats on our exhaust fans to maintain that temp that should also improve growth. Since CO2 can be better used at the higher temps, a real basic CO2 augmentation might also help. While the CO2 levels outdoors are just over 388ppm now, indoor the levels may be significantly higher (especially in the winter when I am brewing!) There for a slight but steady intake of this extra CO2 could also improve growth.
Anyway those are some ideas I have been thinking about for adjusting our grow rooms to LED. If we try all these things and the two week delay remains, I spose we could experiment with a timer and a infrared source (I bet Weezard already has?) If all else fails, maybe we can just veg less and switch to 12/12 sooner?
Yeah, they definitely take longer to finish. 15-16 weeks of flower my last grow. I'm currently in week 7 of flower and just a few pistils have turned brown and still all clear trichs. I've also gathered that you can't reliably determine harvest time by checking for amber trichs. I seemed to have 5-10% amber trichs for a good 2 weeks and they stayed that way until I just couldn't bear to wait any longer and chopped em'. Great smoke.
So Weez,? How do we determine when to harvest under LEDs? Aside from the obvious... growing the same strain out a few times to guage it. :smokin:
the longest i have gone is 63 days of flower under LED's and i have about 30-40% amber trichs...are you growing some wild sativa?Quote:
Originally Posted by Joefarmer
i'm not Weez but i couldn't help but give my .02 ....i do everything from clone to finish under LEDS and i am finishing faster...i used to run everyting 70 days under HPS and my 63 day LED grow is narcotic!:stoned:
I would be very interested to see such a DIY tutorial. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadedHermie
It was bagseed, definitely sativa, 2oz dried in a 3x3. 1st indoor grow. We'll get it nailed down soon. As you seem to have done.Quote:
Originally Posted by stra8outtaWeed
thanks...this is my third completed flower run on LED's and i notice them finishing faster.....the one difference that the lights i have added 3500k LED's to the mix so supplemental CFL's are not needed! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Joefarmer
Cool. How much area does one of those lights cover? How much do they cost? I saw an ad for them or something similar in HT.
fuck I didnt read....this post was fucking dumb anyway....it pist me off and thats why I skipped ahead lol
sorry
Sunshine-systems.com, if you want a closer look at LED's
coverage~ at 10"-12" above your plants 24" x 48"....$450/150w 3w diodes! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Joefarmer
Yea I am on board with the faster finish theory now too. The Durban finished in 7 weeks for me. It must be the white addition that make the difference?
Picked up a few of these 28w panels on e-bay
excited for my first LED grow
If you really wished to be "honest" you would throw in a comment stating you are a LED vender too tryin to push his own stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Man. I'm glad I found this thread. My greenouse is being built now, but i don't want to use ballasts and deal with cooing units, etc. LED lights might be exactly what I need. Doing lots of research into it now.
Thanks.
if you have put out a tutorial i can't find it . got a link?Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadedHermie
I used to have an HTG LED panel - I threw it away. Worst waste of $250 ever.Quote:
Originally Posted by neceros
It's no wonder they're selling it for just barely over 100 bucks - it's garbage.
Ok, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
A standard four-foot unit with two 40-watt bulbs -- or tubes -- illuminates an area about eight inches in width. A bright but overcast day measures about 1,000 foot-candles. By contrast, a bright, sunshiny day generates about 10,000 foot-candles.
Contrast this to fluorescent lights. At six inches from the source, you'll be receiving about 700 foot-candles. And when you're a foot from the light, the foot-candle measurement drops to 450.
__________________
Carmel Santos
CEO of Herb Gardening Guide
Growing Herbs in Pots
The Australian Guide to Herb Gardening
"Contrast this to fluorescent lights. At six inches from the source, you'll be receiving about 700 foot-candles."
With not only incident light meters, but typical garden foot-candle meters, I've never had lower than 1,200 foot candles from T5HO Fluorescent one foot from any T5Ho light, banked or individual.
And the highest I've seen is 2,500 foot candles from the same distance in laboratory conditions.
I have developed a great ratio after discussions with Kyber. Ratio's of 7:1:1 will not give max yields or trichome development. Most peeps lights are generic high production lamps that are overly priced. Shop around and talk to the sellers by telephone, and ask questions. There are only 4 peak spectrums needed, and orange and white are not one of those.Quote:
Originally Posted by neceros
Ken
I have been trying to wrap my head around all of the things needed to make my own LED light system. If you are going to make a tutorial...I'm in!Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadedHermie
My spouse and I are arguing which is best. Please respond with examples
cannabis receptors reach saturation @ 1500-1800 micro-moles and will disregard any light outside the wavelength it is looking for at that particular time within it's growth cycle.Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonboy
therefore the importance of quality and quantity of PAR light at the receptors cannot be understated. One of the things that I found LED's had difficulty achieving was, as nature would provide, photomorphogenesis wherin the spectrums, especially IR levels, would not be so narrow that the full yield inhibited by lack of enough energy in red and far red levels without having to create an LED lamp/driver combination that would rival HPS in wattage while being 4 x the price and needing 2 or 3 of them to cover the same area.
any grower having compared yields between the most advanced LED and the simple HPS will attest to the compromise in yields. So while we all would like to find the holy grail of energy efficiency, lamp life, PAR spectrums there really is a much simpler way to go about it.
"any grower having compared yields between the most advanced LED and the simple HPS will attest to the compromise in yields"
Which is to say, EXACTLY NOTHING.
Those other 'tests' are done by non-scientific, non-professional garage growers that are using a mass-produced copy of outdated 90s LED research.
Grams per kilowatt-hour, LED wins all day every day, across every crop ever tested in a truly professional and scientific setup.
Like this:
http://imgur.com/MQHJgl
To this:
http://imgur.com/9cNKt.jpg
To this:
http://imgur.com/hqn3Nl.jpg
All day, every day.
Welcome Brynpav;:)
"any grower having compared yields between the most advanced LED and the simple HPS will attest to the compromise in yields"
I disagree!
You sound well educated but appear to be mis-informed;
[attachment=o259848]
The middle "clone" is sun-grown.
Granted, all three are crappy, but that's my failing.
I'm not a good grower, but can't fault the leds.
[attachment=o259850]
Led buds in forground, sun buds in back
[attachment=o259851]
2 more weeks or so to go.
[attachment=o259849]
Out for a "tan" just before the chop.
Perhaps more research is in order?
"there really is a much simpler way to go about it. "
Intrigued, please expand on that.
Aloha,
Weezard (A non-professional garage grower):rastasmoke:
I'm a private grower having completed 2 grows now where I'd converted from HID to induction and the yields have been on par @ 300 g/m for the HID with a 60% savings in connected load. These are significantly less expensive to purchase and get up and running compared to the LED arrays as shown in these attachments.Quote:
Originally Posted by Weezard
Have you seen how healthy plants will veg under a 100 watt induction? it's remarkable. I currently have 8 of the 400 watt inda-gro lamps for flower and bud and really don't have a complaint I can site.
I have heard some horror stories about induction as well and initially only went in with an order of 1 400 and 1 100. I've heard the problems that people have had is that when they try and use these as an IP65 rated fixture which as growers we don't need that rating and the temperature within the fixture and our environments can create thermal overloads. But even so I had only heard of this occurring on the mland brand direct out of China.
I'm not here to dismiss the potential of LED for grow. I hope it does deliver but I've not seen the success from these lamps that the manufacturers I dealt with; UFO & HTG had claimed. I really had hoped they would lower the loads and still maintain yields but both of these fixtures had led failures within 2 months of having installed them. So far the inductions have been hassle free. :rastasmoke:
Plants, cannabis included, uses all light into PAR at similar efficiency. They dont disgregard any specific wavelenght into PAR. Thats is an absolutely well proven fact.Quote:
Originally Posted by brynpav
Ive found photomorphogenesis to be way better controlled with LED light than when using any other type of light.Quote:
Originally Posted by brynpav
You decide exactly how many UV, IR and far red you provide your plants, allowing you to tune the lighting to the exact requeriments of a specific plant. Of course, if you do it bad, you can get worse results, but its not a limitation of LED lamps, but people misdesigning them or growers using them the wrong way.
Using more than one point source is not a limitation at all, but a large advantage. Improves penetration in typical indoor crowded canopies, achieves even light distribution, which enhances light efficacy. Avoid hot spots and areas underlit, typical of HID growing.
I would agreed if you have said "many growers" instead of "any grower" and skipped the "most advanced" lamps statement. Many crappy LED lamps out there, specially a pair years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by brynpav
People tricked for dishonest LED sellers to believe they can get the same yield with 100W of LEDs than with 600W HPS (which is impossible) got dissapointing results.
But growers using good designed LED lamp systems are getting similar yields using near half watts, forgetting heat issues and getting way higher productivities (yield per input watts).
Ive heard too horror stories about induction lamps reliability. Ballast heat is often underlooked by designers. And its clear than 95% induction lamp systems have a lower expected life for the ballast than for the bulb itself. Reliability stands for the whole system, and its very hard to find long term reliable induction lamps (reason of their limited market penetration).Quote:
I have heard some horror stories about induction as well and initially only went in with an order of 1 400 and 1 100. I've heard the problems that people have had is that when they try and use these as an IP65 rated fixture which as growers we don't need that rating and the temperature within the fixture and our environments can create thermal overloads. But even so I had only heard of this occurring on the mland brand direct out of China.
But letting apart that topic, its true that its easier to get a good perfomance from induction lamps than from many currently on sale LED lamps. All induction lamps have similar efficiency, while LED lamps vary strongly from one to the another.
But perfomance gain of induction lamps is limited over HPS. Its a technology with very little improvement margin (except on reliability). Little spectrum advantage, similar energy efficiency, same problems with the need of using big lamps far from plants. Big bulbs that need to use big reflectors, often little efficient.
They work very well in veg. But LED lamps do it still better. Have you seen what 100W of good LEDs can achieve on veg? We are using it on 1 sq meter very sucessfully, replacing 400W MHs with 120W of LEDs or so and getting better growth rates yet