Looks like we lost some posts.
Printable View
Looks like we lost some posts.
Aand we're back!:cool:
Not the first time Cdot went tits-up ya know.
This one really had Sundance scramblin' though.
I figure he's been havin' a ball:(
Don't envy da owners here atall.
Looks like fun, but I'll tell ya what.
Re-building a server is a pain in da butt
It's time consuming and often frustrating.
I is happily retired from all dat kine sing.:):):)
At least they had a good backup from 2/23.
And I did save what few e-mails I could for interval if ya need 'em.
What's happened since the duck tape test?
Lit up any ladies yet?
Aloha,
Weeze
I dont remember where I was here...Quote:
Originally Posted by Weezard
I had all the blues mounted and wired, dimming is perfect.
And to make a long story short I totally forgot to wire up the current limiter for the red string. 2A power supply. Lost 2 reds for sure and now the 4 blues outshine the 6 reds left which should be impossible if they are ok.
I ordered this time eight 660's, four 625's, and four 725-745's. If the emerson effect is bunk then at least those last 4 will provide one well known catalyst to chem reactions, heat, but jus' a lil.
These are still the ledengin 5w's and with the four good blues adds up to 100w.
Heres the damage. I also notice that I have ea type of red on the same side. I wanted them alternating I think. My new layout puts all 4 colors onto a quarter of the heatsink with no color adjacent to the same color on a different quarter of the heatsink. Hope that makes sense.
Back to work on this Wed I hope.
http://boards.cannabis.com/attachmen...e-pic_0301.jpg
Actually I wouldn't be surprised to see the blues outshine the reds. The red range is much harder to obtain good output efficiencies from, with some of the best Osram and Cree hitting only about 32-35% efficiency per input watt, whereas the best blues are easily hitting 40-45% efficiency per input watt with regards to conversion to light - assuming that the spec sheets per a particular bin are not lying to us.
But the typical pattern seen in spec sheets in almost every bin level is that reds are less efficient as far as radiometric emission is concerned. This is why many companies are using blue diodes as the base of their white LEDs.
According to the specs blue is 45lm to reds 125lm. At least for the 625nm red. The 660 is just given in mW. I dunno. I planned on saving them anyway. Two for sure are dead theyre both 625nm red. Thx KhyberQuote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
You cannot use luminous flux to measure monochromatic light in red or blue. The lumen is weighted at 550-555nm - green.
The only true measure of diode efficiency is radiometric output.
If red were more efficient (and higher electron-voltage) then it would be used as the base for white diodes. As it is, blue is used because of the ease of downconverting from blue light to red light using phosphors. Upconverting requires special tricks like frequency doubling (making a red diode output a 'green' light) and is horribly inefficient, moreso than a normal HID lamp.
I wasnt using it to measure anything. I was wondering why my eye saw the opposite of what the specs stated, a lower brightness.Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
Blue light is a higher energy potential, thus a stronger source of light per photon emission. Blue light also has a pretty high optical damage, and the diodes you've picked are classed with laser diodes in Risk Group 2.
Spec sheets are misleading. Why are they trying to measure output in terms of lumens when the lumen is specifically set at 550-555nm? You're not going to measure 630nm or 660nm light as if it were 550-555nm.
Input power/output power. 1 w input, 450mw output. Blue diodes (sometimes) have the proper radiometric output listed, but those are few and far between.
Well the new LEDs arrived today. Building resumes tomorrow.
Can't wait to see how it goes! I just obtatined a rather difficult-to-find copper-cored computer heat sink, now I'm waiting to see if this one particular company can create a super-dense multi-band package in the 100w range to my specifications.
So theyre all mounted.
4 blues (465nm) and 21 reds (3 diff flavors... 625 ( four), 660 (11 of these), and 735 ( 4).
If anyone cares heres the layout from top left
DR R FR DR
R B DR B DR
FR DR DR DR FR
DR B DR B R
DR FR R DR
Now its 115W.
My 4 current limiters (will run off 2 supplies) are mounted on one of the PSU's.
Peace.
Attachment 273138
Superior!
Elegant even.
I like the way you addressed the V. drop in the wires. :thumbsup:
Gonna mount the P.S. on da heasink and have 'em share a fan?
I'd love to see a camera killing "smoke test" of that beast.:cool:
Got any plans for a side by side grow with a different light?
Aloha,
Weeze
Thanks man! Couldnt have done it nearly as fast without you and this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Weezard
I am just using cfl's for now. I had five 42w'ers (actual W - ProLume brand) in my cab. I dont really think they will even come close to being compared with the LEDs...I hope. May leave 1 or 2 there for a) my eyes to see whats going on and b) as supplements.
Not sure about a fan yet. I'd have to drop a 3rd PSU in there.
But deffo there will be a smoke test!! and pics, lol havent heard that in a looong time.
I have some aluminum flashing I plan on screwing to the heatsink as a kind of case. Top may be open though.
Have babysitting tomorrow, might get half a day to work on the light. Should be done by Saturday though.
Got any advice on how far to keep this from the top of the plants? Running the light crippled for a week and the leaves looked to be hiding from the light at 4-5" away.
Everything this last week was cool to the touch. I'll play the fan by ear.
Again, thank you very much.
Peace.
Looks good! Given that you're using 1w emitters without any focusing lenses, I'd keep it about 9 inches away in veg and about 3-4 inches away in flowering.
I did find out that the blues are more tightly focused than any of the reds. Theyre 80 degrees with a total angle of 90 degrees whereas all the reds are 90 with a total angle of 120.
And unless youre talking about the die itself these are all 5w emitters. At 4" (with only 50w) the leaves seem to be curling under.
5 Watters running at about 3W.
Do try to keep up, Khy.:rolleyes:
I suggest 12 to 18 " in veg.
8 - 12" in flower.
Closer will actually stop growth.
Closer still, will bleach them.
I learned that the hard way.:(
Mahalo nui, brah
Can't tell you how stoked I am to see this.
Means this thread was well worth the effort.
Now somebody's gonna see your build and start to thinkin'.:cool:
It goes around, it comes around, and before ya know it good stuff abounds.
Great job.
Let's grow.
Weeze
Ah, yep, I'm stoned, misread a post above as 1w instead of mW (the lumens post between red and blue)
5w emitters. Are these true single-chip or multi-chip packages?
Pretty sure they are single chip. Multichip doesnt start until 10w with ledengin I think. Only ever see two wires going into the die also.Quote:
Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
You'll need a microscope to get a good look inside to tell if it's multi-chip or single-chip.
Have a pic of a 1w Nichia 460nm emitter, multi-chip, and an Osram 660nm single-chip emitter. Note the bonding wires inside of each die area and where they connect. Some single-die emitters use multiple bonding wires for better electrical saturation of the diode, but it should be fairly easy to tell if it's single or multi.
Well no microscope so I cant tell. It looks like a single emitter to me. The 10w ledengin LEDs look like they have 4 diff dies. The 5w look like one die.
edit to add: Three hours sleep last night combined with just getting back from babysitting means I probably wont work on the light today. Dont want to screw something up due to being tired.
Hi guy's been reading, and figuring, and reading, for a couple weeks now. didn't want to open my mouth just to ask questions. This is the best LED thread on the net. ledengin seems the way to g,o but I just found another manufacture ShenZhen Romanso Electronic Co., Ltd does anyone know anything about them or their leds. they sell for 98 cents per watt but they have leds up 100w I'm having trouble getting excact info Me thinks language barrier, to cover430nm 460nm 630nm and 660nm Libby said it would be 8 leds without being specific.
In order to get wavelength info you've got to contact them (Libby)
anyway i would like to make a light with 1-430nm, 2-460nm, 3-630nm, 6-660nm, 4-680nm total 16 leds X 10w
any comment on the wavelengths power sup. or reg. are all appreciated.
and for a power supply fleabay has a Meanwell 350 clone $45.us {15V DC 23.2A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply}
also plan to regulate individually or in groups with LM2596 LED Drivers Current/Voltage regulator PCB adj out, $4.25 us with shipping
BTW Weezard your #1 guru in my book. and how was the wave from Japan?
I would say if you want to use another manufacturer and there are hundreds in China then you would want to talk to someone who has used that specific one. Or order your own samples. I would go with something tried and true if you are going to have any type of expectations from it.
I am actually working with a similar manufacturer on a multi-band 100w multi-emitter package. It's difficult, though. Getting my desired ratio and in a specific pattern is somewhat of a nuisance because of varying voltages across each serial string. I may have to stick with a different pattern with a more uniform configuration than spread out.
I've seen a plain 100w one, and they're pretty intense, especially on the quantum meter.
I have already built a "hood" of sorts. I'll get that and the rest of it done tomorrow.
All red.
Attachment 273216
Blues lowest power
Attachment 273217
Full powa.
Attachment 273218
Beam spread onto paper
Attachment 273219
the j-light 115, heh, no plans to commercialize, its a joke
10" high with the shroud (one power supply is the rail mount kind and sticks way up)
8.5" wide from the front and 6" deep
2" of shroud hang below the LEDs
Attachment 273239
The screamin' bright, J-light?
Outta sight!
May your gals grow fat
an' your buds be tight.
Thanks for the photo's.
Any advice for the next DIY guy?
Aloha nui techie.
Weeze
Thanks Weeze. You are awesome. You too Khyber.
Advice: Read a lot, learn to solder, plan, do.
I have some Jack Herer clones ready to go. They get da purp treatment starting today. I will have more pics later once everything is set up.
And thanks to DH for starting this thread and everyone who contributed.
Looking great! So glad you bought pre-mounted LEDs because let me tell you IR or oven reflow soldering is a PAIN.
Thought I would stop on by and see how things are going in the LED world... I read this article today and it made me smile. Future farm: a sunless, rainless room indoors - Yahoo! News
I wound up going back to a HPS setup because my led's didn't cover the footprint I needed. If I ever get around to building a light like Weez or DH I'm sure it can be done.
Revamped and redesigned. Now it's 125W and hung from a single chain. No reflector and down to a single PSU.
I like the CFL to make it easy to see and hopefully add a spectrum or 3 the plants need if they do. It's a 42W (true power) ProLume, but it's almost 3 years old now.
Those are 6 F1 Jack Herer clones. They had their first 12 hours of dark last night. Day 1 today.
Attachment 274642
Attachment 274643
Attachment 274644
And no fan, cool!:cool:
I used the same Power supply and it shut down on me after 10 hours.
The Jackals look ready to flourish.:thumbsup:
Might want to pot-up before you do flower though.
I put some girls into flower in a DWC and noted a doubling of root size for the first 2 weeks of flowering.
At the least, poke some drain holes around the bottom.
Otherwise they sit around on their drain holes and stay too wet, yah?
Still, they look quite healthy so far.
Aloha,
Weeze
The heatsink isnt even getting warm. Top of the power supply is the warmest part - using my hands. I can still add a fan if needed. The big fan on the left is constantly on with a speed controller set to low. The air is constantly changing. I usually have the cover off when the lights are on anyway. They have drain holes mang!Quote:
Originally Posted by Weezard
Those clones are only a couple weeks old and the roots arent bound yet. I am thinking they will add a little more roots then quit about 2 weeks in. Trying to grow popsicles. Last time i used quart containers and they seemed a little too big. Wouldnt mind a few more oz's on the cups though ya. But LED grows use less water and nutes ya? Lots of reasons to try out smaller containers. If the cups work I will add more plants, if not I'll find bigger cups or go back to the qt's I guess.
How are things going there?
Is it living there that makes you cool or do you have to be cool before moving? :)
I have got a grow thread going at a diff forum. I dont want to break any rules so if anyone wants the link just PM me or something.
I miss DWC! I am working on a tiny hydro system for this lil cab in my head. So far no progress....lol
Peace
How are things going there?
We are muddling through as best we can;
[attachment=o274648]
[attachment=o274649]
Is it living there that makes you cool or do you have to be cool before moving? :)
Well, we would prefer it if they came already :cool:.
But It does not take long to civilize a haole.
Paradise is one helluva carrot, yah?
There is no PM here, and you have turned off your rep., so give me a rep. up with the thread URL
Wanna watch dem kids grow.
Wee.
Was wondering where you'd got to.Quote:
Originally Posted by ledtime
Good link!
Still using the leds for clones or was monochrome not "it"?
Aloha,
Weeze
Are you 660nm420 on RIU by any chance?Quote:
Originally Posted by ledtime
Wife came home with 18oz cups for tomatoes and peppers so the JH's got up-cupped. The other cups were 9oz.
Peace
Goodonya!
Bet you are glad you potted-up.
Anyroad, just a bump.
Aloha, Weeze
Wow, it's been a long time since I've been on here.
Weez, my all blue, and red/blue could veg like nobody's business. The 120W made a lot of heat though?
I've been toying around with all kinds of things. Lately, CFL. I'm amazed at what can be done with them. Have any of you read through DrBudGreenGenes stuff over at IC mag? Compact SOG with CFL's - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums
His micro SOG is perfectly ideal for LED. 2'x18" footprint. Small cab. Perpetual harvest. I don't know about you guys, but I really don't care for working with large plants. PITA to move around.
I hope all is well with everyone. :-)
Howzit LT?
Wow!
Tried searching cdot for this thread 6 different ways.
Nada!
Gave up and googled.
Bam!
Metric shitloads of linked messages.
Vbulletin's search function, doesn't! :(
Anyway.
Might be a good thing this is buried.
They don't like links to other sites here.
If they did, I'd have a small pile of links for ya. :)
Long as I'm here.
Update:
All my lamps are still functioning well.
Can't say that for the power supplies though.
Had 3 failures so far.
Cheap is cheap. :D
Am finding that Sativa, and Indica, want different R:B ratios.
And some strains sulk under LEDs.
We live, we learn. :D
Aloha,
Weeze
Hello Weeze ! I want to apologise for jumping on your back a few years back when I first came to this site... You were saying how you had finally equaled the sun indoors and I responded you can never get the same yields indoors as out and we had a few other things to say before it was over also. I have matured as a forum browser and I really want to give you a very heartfelt, "im sorry" !!!! I am now also growing indoors and want to say I have much respect for you and your wisdom.. Peace and may your buds be large and plentiful !!!