Damn.. That's just unfair..:(
And, I agree with stickygreenlightsabr:)
NEVER quit!!:)
Printable View
Damn.. That's just unfair..:(
And, I agree with stickygreenlightsabr:)
NEVER quit!!:)
Ok, UPDATE:::
Thanks to justAseed, in another thread, I was able to spot my pre-flowers... god damn! I should have done that at the beginning... not fuck around with "cloning for sex" and stuff...
Anyways... NEWS!!!
I've got 2 males, 2 females.
I've got 2 pots. 1pot has 1male and 1female, and the other one, well, the remaining female and male.
So, one of the females is the super-slow growth plant... So that's my second choice for mother plant. The other female, is @ the other pot, and it's the one the early on her life she "split" (kind of if somebody "topped" her) and she's now a two headed monster. Well, that one is a female also.
So, I'm keeping the two headed mosnter female, and killing the male that's in the pot with her.
Then, the other pot, it has one male and one female, right? Well, just as I was about to kill all the plants, my brother called me... so I spoke with him, and I've got a new plan.
POT1: I'm killing the male, keeping the two headed female.
POT2: I'm headed out the door right now, and I'm going to plant this pot in the great outdoors. Wish them luck, and get the hell out of there. There's a male and a female there... so hopefully I can come back 3.5 months later and find some White Widow seeds. And some outdoor buds... :D
Please let me know what you think!
When I get back, I'll start cloning for the actual grow today!!!!!!! WUUuHUUU!!!!!
I'm wondering who's more excited.... you guys or me!
Thanks for all the support guys,
-turtle420 :cool:
.
i've cloned with a nutramist ....works great,just run it 24/7........roots in 6 days
Hey turtle, very interesting post.
What did justaseed say about sexing?
When I fogged, I used plants that I started from seed. Grew them out in dirt and then put them into fogging bucket. The fog was no problem since I grew outside. There was no humidity dome and the fog rose up from the holes the net pots were in. So I had fog rising from 9 holes. I ran the fogger 24/7 and it didn't put out that much water. It was an ultrasonic fogger from walmart $35 bucks. The fogger had a two gallon reservoir and I could run it for 3 days.
Hope that helps. Whatever you do people are interested. I'm still learning.
goood to hear your back on ur feet with a new plan..
Your like Puffy ("Can't stop wont Stop, Uh huh Uh huh"):D
What's up guys? :)
Ok, here are my plans:
Tomorrow, I'll buy two or three things I need, and when I get home @ the end of the day, I'll cut new clones and put them into the fog... Thug and Starmark, I'll run the NutraMist all the time during lights ON this time.
Question: What are your feelings towards using the 400W MH for the clones?
The light is about 24" away from where the clones' tops would be... would you use the MH, or CFLs?
The thing is, it'll be much, much easier to just use the 400W MH inside the cabinet... instead of having to use the CFLs.
Ideas? I'll think the clones will take it just fine.
Hoping to see your ideas,
-turtle420 :cool:
.
i think at this stage a few dying clones cant/wont stop your drive DO THE DAMN THING!
YES DRILL SERGEANT SIR!Quote:
Originally Posted by BkSkillz
Or...Quote:
Originally Posted by BukDatAss
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickygreenlightsabr
Hello guys...
I got home too late today to do what I wanted... no clones today.
Anyways, that gave me time to remember, that I wanted to do some "Moon phase" crops. So, I'll review the literature I have tomorrow to see when the heck do I have to cut the clones in order to "follow" the Moon.
In other news::: I got home to my two girls... I'm going to resume my searches for a handheld microscope... I mean, I have to take pictures of my pre-flowers. Compared to all other pre-flower photos I've been able to look at, mine are diminutive. I'm puzzled... ???
Um, I uploaded three pictures. I was having a close look at the girls, and I spotted three different kinds of invaders!!! WTF?!!!
Please, help... the plants don't show signs of being "negatively affected" by these little SoBs, but I wanted them out! OUT!
1st pic, you can see the ones I call BMF... Big Mother Fucker. It's standing right in the middle ridge of the fan leave's stem.
2nd pic, these are small tiny "flies"... they hang around in the bottom openings of my pot, and when I water the plants, they flee to the upskirts of the pot in order to escape nature's wrath (ie, water flow).
3rd pic, are the ones that got me the most upset. Apparently, they thrive in yellow leaves... so, could they be causing the yellow leaves? My plants don't have that many yellow leaves, but still, that's the observation: I spotted many of them in yellow leaves.
In the 3rd pic, I cut off a leaf and placed it upside-down. I also cut off part of the leaf, so the "curls" wouldn't obstruct the photo. You can see the mother fuckers have an entire colony in there! Damn bastards! I can see their community college in the pic!
ARGHH!?!?!?!!!!!!!! What the hell do I do?
I'm not freaking out, but this little bastards have me really pissed off... Do any type of store sell "LadyBugs"?
Thanks for the comments,
-turtle420 :cool:
.
I liked these icons for the explanation of my situation...
:cursing: :cursing: :cursing: :cursing: :cursing: :cursing: :cursing: :cursing: :cursing: :cursing:
Whoooooahh thats some freaky sheet Turtle Their has to be something that would clean that up no problem... This guy had a problem on the spidermite and some garlic foil spray cleared it up.... Dont know if it would work on those little f#ckers:confused: I'm going to check some stuff for you to see if I cant find anything
^^^^ Thanks Buk! :)
Damn dude, I'd play Halo now, but I've got to get up early.... Thanks for support! ;)
-turtle420 :cool:
.
PESTS
You really have to watch pests, or all your efforts could result in little or nothing in
return. Mites and Aphids are the worst; whiteflies, caterpillar and fungi are the ones to watch out
for long term. Pyrethrum bombs can start you with a clean slate in the room, and then homemade
or commercial soap sprays will do most of the rest. When bringing in plants from outside,
pyrethrum every broad leaf top and bottom and the soil too. Then watch them closely for a week
or two, and soap down any remaining bug life you find from eggs being hatched. This should do
the trick for a month or two, long enough it won't be an issue before harvesting.
Use soap solution like Safer Insecticidal Soap to get rid of most aphid problems. Use
some tobacco juice and chilli pepper powder added to this for mites. Dr. Bronnars Soap can be
used with some dish detergent in a spray bottle if you want to save money.
Pyrethrum should only be used in extreme circumstances directly on plants, but can be
used in a closet or greenhouse in the corners to get rid of spiders and such. It breaks down within
a week to non-toxic elements, and can be washed from a plant with detergent solutions and then
clear water.
I find Pyrethrum to be the best solution for spider mites, if it is sprayed on young plants
up to early flowering. Into later flowering, the tobacco and pepper/soap solution is your best bet,
on a daily basis, on the under-sides of all infected leaves.
There are six pests that are most likely to attack marijuana in-
doors: aphids, mealybugs, mites, whiteflies, scale, and caterpillars.
A few others sometimes invade greenhouses. These include cater-
pillars, cutworms, grasshoppers and leafhoppers.
APHIDS
Aphids are usually found on the undersides of leaves and on
stems, though they are sometimes found on the leaf tops. The
adults are about 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch long and are oval, almost egg-
shaped. They have two protrusions from their rear which look like
pipes and may or may not have wings. They are usually found in
dense colonies with an adult surrounded by a cluster of young.
They are usually pale green or yellow, but sometimes are brown,
black or red. They molt leaving a white shell. They secrete
"honeydew" which is shiny and sticky and is found on infested
foliage. Honeydew is a concentrate of the sugars the animal has
sucked out of the plant and discarded in its search for protein.
Aphids are frequently found together with ants which farm them
for their honeydew by carrying them from plant to plant.
Infested plants weaken from the insects' constant sucking of
sap which they eat by penetrating the deep tissue. Older leaves curl
and younger ones grow deformed. Mold sometimes forms on the
honeydew. Within weeks the plant may wither. Aphids are carriers
of molds and viruses.
Indoors, aphids reproduce parthenogenetically; that is, all the
insects are females and they can reproduce without being fertilized.
They bear live young, which may actually carry embryos of their
own before they are born. They can reproduce when they are 6 days
old.
Luckily, aphids are not difficult to control. Action is taken at
the first sign of infection. First, the garden is checked for ants. Any
colonies are eliminated using ant bait, ant stakes or boric acid.
Then all visible aphids are wiped off the plants using a sponge
and soapy water, a soapy water spray or insecticide. A soapy water
spray is made by mixing 1½ tablespoons Ivory Snow Flakes or any
other soap without detergent in a gallon of water. Some growers
reported success using Dr. Bronner's Eucalyptus or Mint liquid
soaps (these are often found in health food stores) at the rate of I
tablespoon per gallon. This will eliminate most of the pests so that
the grower has some breathing space. However, even the most
thorough spraying or sponging does not eliminate all of the pests,
and since they reproduce parthenogenetically, even one remaining
insect can restart the colony.
If the plants are not flowering, then spray can be used every 2
or 3 days for several weeks. Thorough sprayings may eventually
destroy the colony. They certainly keep it in check.
Another convenient spray is available commercially.
Pyrethrum is a natural insecticide found in chrysanthemum-family
plants. It has not been found harmful to warm-blooded animals but
is toxic to aphids, among other insects. Pyrethrum may be purchas-
ed as a powder, a liquid concentrate, in a pump or aerosal spray.
Usually growers with small gardens choose the aerosols for conve-
nience, while those with large gardens find the concentrates or
powders much less expensive.
Some benign insects like to eat aphids and are convenient to
use in a greenhouse or grow-room situation. Ladybugs and green
lacewings are predators which eat aphids. They can be purchased
commercially from insectiaries. These insects also go through a
rapid lifecycle and may eat hundreds of aphids as they grow to
adults. The insects come with instructions for their use.
People are sometimes a little queasy about bringing beneficial
insects indoors because they are afraid they will escape into un-
wanted areas. However, for the most part these insects stay where
they belong as long as there is food for them to eat. Adult
beneficials sometimes fly directly into metal halide lamps and die
instantly. One grower placed a glass reflector around his lamps. The
trick is to get the adult beneficials to lay eggs because the predators
are most voracious during their immature stages. Given enough
food (aphids) this presents no problem. Once the predators become
established they keep the pest population at a negligible level, but
never eliminate their source of food.
MEALYBUGS
Mealybugs are light-colored insects which exude a white, waxy
cottony-looking substance in which they nestle or which covers
their body. They are usually found on the underside of the leaves
and in the joints between the leaves and stems. The adults are from
1/16 to 1/6 inch long. They suck juices from the plant and exude
honeydew. Their breeding rate is much slower than many other
pests; a generation takes a month or more.
A small mealybug infection may be eliminated by using a
sponge to wipe the creatures off the plants. They can also be
destroyed using a cotton swab dabbed in alcohol, which kills them
instantly. More serious infestations may be controlled using a soapy
water solution or pyrethrum. As well as eating aphids, green lace-
wings also eat mealybugs.
MITES
Mites are the most damaging pest that can enter a garden. They
are not insects, but an arachnid, which is the class of animals that
include spiders. Mites are tiny and may not be noticed until they
have developed into a serious infestation. There are many species of
mites. However the one most likely to attack the garden is the 2
spotted mite, which has two spots on its back which can be seen
under a magnifying glass.
The first indication that a grower may have mites is seeing pin-
point yellow spots on fan leaves. These spots are located above the
points where the mites have pierced the tissue to suck out the plant
juices. Mites are very small, measuring only 3-6 thousandths of an
inch. They look like small dots colored black, red or brown. Mites'
maturity and reproductive rates are affected by temperature. A
female lays about 100 eggs during her lifetime, but at 60 degrees she
produces 20 offspring, at 70 degrees she and her offspring number
13,000, and at 80 degrees she represents a potential 13,000,000 in-
dividuals over a single month. Under ideal conditions mites
reproduce a week after hatching.
As the mite population rises, the plants weaken. Infested leaves
curl under and spider4ike webbing is spun which covers the plants
and is used by the pests to move from plant to plant. Mites also
walk down stems, across medium and across dry space in search of
new plants to colonize. Besides the leaf spots and curling, infested
leaves sometimes also bronze and/or develop necrotic brown spots.
Most growers do not notice mites until the infestation has been
well established and there has been damage to plants. The situation
calls for immediate action. First, after careful examination, infested
plants are separated from the uninfested ones. Lightly infested
plants may be separated from heavily damaged plants. (Physical
barriers such as sticky tape are placed around the heavily infested
plants, pots or the garden perimeter to prevent migration of mites.
Tops are separated so that the mites cannot walk from plant to
plant via foliage.)
Mites suck juices, so they must evaporate large quantities of
water. This is easier for them to do in a dry environment. Humid
environments slow down their metabolism, life span, and reproduc-
tive rate.
Mites may be controlled somewhat by lowering the
temperature, thus slowing the insects' life processes considerably.
Even if this is done only during the dark cycle, when it is easier to
lower temperatures, the progression rate of the infection is slowed
significantly.
Mites tend to congregate on the leaves rather than the buds,
although, as their populations increase, they can start colonizing
the buds as well. They can be washed off the leaves using a strong
water spray. Growers sometimes use a soapy water spray from a
small gauge directional nozzle. Medium pressure can be used. The
floor and container surfaces are covered with newspaper or other
throwaways so that the mites can be removed by the spray. Buds
within 2 weeks of harvest should not be sprayed with soap. Other
possible sprays include wetting agents, which interfere with the
mites' water-holding ability, flour or starch (½ cup flour, ½ cup
milk in a gallon of water) which trap and kill the mites as the mix-
ture dries into a thin film, and an anti-transpiration product, "Wilt-
Pruf"® which is sold in many nurseries. It is a chemical which is
used to slow down the rate at which plants lose water through their
leaves and works by partially coating the leaf's pores. It is frequent-
ly used when transplanting and during dry, hot, or sunny periods.
Wilt-Pruf also traps mites in its thin film. When these products are
used, individual leaves are sprayed using a hand trigger bottle.
Some growers "homebrew" a miticide using common spices
such as garlic, cayenne pepper, onion, cloves or their combinations
soaked in water. Recipes call for either grinding the raw spices or
boiling them. One gallon of water is mixed with one or more of the
following: ½- 1 ounce garlic, 2-3 ounces of onion, ½ ounce cloves,
½-i ounce cayenne pepper. Before spraying all the plants with a
homebrew, try it on a few leaves to make sure that the plants are
not adversely affected and the mites are killed.
Insectiaries advertise predatory mites for the control of mites.
There are several varieties that attack two-spotted mites. Choice of
variety of predator mites depends on greenhouse temperature.
Some growers have reported great success using these predators,
while others report that they have been unsuccessful at getting them
to take. When they get established they are effective, but sometimes
they seem to disappear in the marijuana garden never to be seen
again. Meanwhile, the mites continue to multiply at a geometric
rate.
On May 23rd, 1986, the New York Times reported on
Kelthane, the popular miticide and insecticide. Growers have often
reported its effectiveness in eliminating pest problems. However, it
turns out that one of the reasons for its effectiveness is that it con-
tains DDT. You say that can't be: DDT was banned from use in
1972. Rohm & Haas Company of Philadelphia, which distributes
the product manufactured overseas, has agreed to reduce the level
in this product from 2.5% to 1/10th of 1 percent on December 31,
1988. Yes, that's right, 1988. The stocks will be in stores well after
that date. DDT damages the reproductive systems and nervous
systems of mammals. For your own sake, please don't use Keithane
or any other miticide-insecticide-containing dicofol.
Since mites have a short regeneration cycle, for sprays to be ef-
fective they must be used often enough to kill each new generation
before it has a chance to reproduce. To prevent buildup of
resistance, different sprays are alternated. Several growers have
reported eliminating mites using "Holiday Foggers" 3 times a day
at S day intervals.
Smart growers cover their bodies and wear respirators when
working with harmful chemicals. Exposed clothing and underwear
is removed immediately after the operation is ended and is washed
separately or disposed of. One grower used disposable paper jump
suits he found at an army surplus store. Another used clothing one
step away from the garbage. After removing clothing, the exposed
individual showers well with strong soap.
Mites are difficult to eliminate or even control, but it can be
done. The means of control depends upon the stage of the plants'
life cycle and the degree of infestation. Gardens with a minor infec-
tion which are near harvest may be protected simply by lowering the
temperature, or by using a quick knockdown spray.
Growers sometimes find it more convenient to destroy young
plants with a mite infection than to try to combat it. Plants which
are nearing the end of the vegetative stage may never flower well if
the infection is severe, so that growers try to keep the population
down on plants older than 2 months. Growers sometimes start the
flowering cycle early when they detect mites. That way
temperatures are lowered because of the longer darkness cycle, and
the mites do not have as long to build up their population.
WHITEFLIES
Whiteflies look like flies except that they are all white. The
adults are about 1/16th of an inch long. They can be seen flying off
foliage when it is shaken. They lay large white eggs which can be
seen on the undersides of the leaves they inhabit. They suck sap
from the leaves and leave spots of honeydew. Whiteflies spread
black soot, molds and other diseases.
Whiteflies undergo four stages of development once they hatch
from eggs. Each stage is called an instar. Their life cycle is strictly
regulated by temperature. As temperatures increase from 55 to 85
degrees the number of days from egg to adult decreases from 103 to
18 days. However, the adult's life span also decreases. At 55
degrees, the adult lives over 60 days. At 85 degrees it lives fewer
than 7 days. At 65 degrees it produces more than 300 eggs over its
lifespan, at the rate of more than 8 eggs per day. As the temperature
increases, total egg production decreases to less than 30 and the rate
of production goes down to fewer than 5 per day.
The whitefly population must increase to tremendous numbers
before there is any apparent damage to plants directly. However,
the honeydew dropped by whiteflies becomes an incubation spot
for mold.
Whiteflies are easy to control. If there only seem to be a few,
they can be pinched off the leaves by hand. Their metabolism is a
factor of temperature; at cool temperatures in the low 60's, they are
sluggish and easily trapped. They are susceptible to spice sprays and
pyrethrum, but the easiest way to deal with them is using Encarsia
Formosa, the whitefly parasite. This small non-social wasp is about
1/32nd of an inch long, about the same size as a mite. It lives entirely
on whiteflies. The adults eat the eggs and the first and second in-
star. They lay their eggs in the third instar. As the wasp embryo
develops in the whitefly instar, the egg, which was a pale green or
tan, turns black. Encarsia formosa development is also regulated by
temperature. At 55 degrees it takes 30 days to reach adulthood, but
at 85 degrees it requires only about 10 days. At 65 degrees the adults
live about 30 days, but only 8 days at 80 degrees. However the
number of eggs laid by females, about 30, does not vary much.
They just lay them over a shorter period of time.
Insectiaries usually suggest that whitefly parasites be released
several times over a 3 week period allowing several generations of
whitefly instars to be parasitized, assuring control of the problem
quickly. However, experienced growers have found that only 1
release is required, although control takes a while longer. By the
third generation the parasites achieve virtual control of the plant
eaters and while they do not eliminate them, they keep the
whiteflies down to a negligible level and prevent large outbreaks
from occurring.
Whiteflies are attracted to certain shades of yellow. Nurseries
sell cards which are either pre-glued or which can be coated with oil.
Any whiteflies which fly to the card are trapped.
One grower uses a vacuum cleaner to collect whiteflies from his
plants. He says that it is best to do this early in the morning when it
is still cool and the insects are sluggish. He says that the vacuum is
also effective against aphids.
SCALE
Scale are insects which attack the stems and undersides of
leaves. There are two kinds of scale: armored and soft-bodied. Ar-
mored scale are 1/6-1/12 inch long and are usually brown, grey or red-
dish. They secrete a waxy or cottony substance which shapes a shell
to protect their bodies. Soft-bodied scale are usually brown, black
or mottled. Their skin is smooth and shiny. Both types are mobile
only when they are young. Usually they lose their legs after the first
or second moult. The males regain their legs as well as wings at the
final moult and spend their short adult life in search of females to
inseminate.
Scale females can produce up to 5,000 offspring over a
lifetime, but they have a relatively slow rate of growth so that it
takes a while for them to build a large population.
Scale suck sap, leaving little residue. Sometimes immature
scale, which are mobile, excrete honeydew. Their saliva may be tox-
ic to the plant. Leaves or branches will turn yellow and die.
Scale often look like nodes or blemishes on a stem. They are
easily scraped off the plant using fingernails.
They do not often attack marijuana; however, some cases have
been reported.
There are number of effective methods of controlling scale.
Since they reproduce slowly, scraping the adults off the leaves and
stems may be an effective control. Garlic-cayenne sprays may
eliminate them. Finally, there are a number of parasites which at-
tack the insects in their immature stages. Predators are often
specific to a particular variety of scale, so it's best to send samples
of the infection to insectiaries when buying them.
Scale can also be killed using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Turtle how old were the clones that died. Did you have them under bright lights? Clones need weak light to develop roots, otherwise the plants use up all the sugars in the leaves and die a premature death. They only need water to gorw roots.
Hello Gen,Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen
My clones where in...I had them in day 13 when I spotted them withered up and "dead". On day 12 was when I removed the "humidity dome".
LIGHTS: For the first 10 days of life, they had only ONE 43Watt CFL, comparable to a 200W incandescent. It wasn't directly on top of them, it was about 1 foot away.
The clones withered up, but they never said "I'm dead!", although I trully thought it. Anyways, because they had these little tiny roots, I placed them in a glass with water, little bit of SuperTHRIVE, and a air stone... let's see what happens... I'd be great if they survived... Wow... the will to live.
<<><><>>>>
BukDatAss! Thanks for the info bro, I haven't read it completely, but I'm printing it out so I can read it during the day.... damn bugs... arghhhh!
But thanks man, I'll keep you updated
;)
-turtle420 :cool:
.
Turtle, when did you first notice your clones turning yellow? That would of been the first sign, they're having trouble. If they don't stay healthy green, something is wrong. The clones keep them in low light and spray them with very weak ferts to give them some food. I use a few drops of liquid kelp and a couple drops of liquid soap for a wetting agent to a pint of water. Keep on feeding them and you may be able to save them. I have not had any nute burn yet. I feed my plants everytime I water them with very weak fertilizer. For the hydro plants I am using the lucas formula since the GH3 formula made the plants stretch alot in fours hours.
Someone said they had success with clones in a fogger. How are you managing the extra moisture? Maybe the nutrimist is for a much larger grow operation than the one you're currently running. Good luck.
Whatsup with the BUGS did this help you a little bit?
Dude, I've been sooooo busy, I haven't had time.Quote:
Originally Posted by BukDatAss
HOPEFULLY, today I'll be able to cut my clones and start the actual grow. FINALLY!
I feel so left behind... EVERYBODY has budding plants... EVERYBODY planted fucking seeds and theirs are already 12/12. I'm not bitching in a please-help-me way... but fucking shit! This sucks man!
Will I EVER be able to smoke my own buds?! Sheeeeshhhh.... :(
NO!! YOU WILL FAIL OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND.. you get the point! :thumbsup:
You do know, THAT atitude will get you NOWHERE!:)
Just believe in you're self, and you're plants will grow!:)
Maybe cloning was a hard one to start with.. Just remember, you GOT them some roots!:) :thumbsup:
Just try over and over and over and over and over... You get the poin again...!:)
Thanks for the uplifting words pPuff... but don't worry, after +$4,000 invested, this plants WILL flower... Even if I have to stick GH nutes down their stems with a syringe.... I am NOT kidding... they WILL grow!Quote:
Originally Posted by Powder Puff
WUHUUU!!!!! Thanks pPuff, :D
In honor of your name, I will go now have a "Puff" of some good chronic I scored... and, completing your name, it will be a "Power Puff" !!!! LOL!!!! :D
Best pPuff,
-turtle420 :cool:
.
Nice to hear your back Turtle dont give up.. I We need you to finish;)
but good thing just keep growing and growing you did good with the clones (I think) Remember its our 1st time we all had huge speed bumps and had big mistakes, its all in our forums:thumbsup:
Yeah, turtle. I'm rooting for you. No pun intended. For that kind of money you should be growing giant redwoods. You will be rewarded. Persistance pays off.
For a first time grower you're doing great. I've been growing flowers and veggies for 25 years. And I can still screw things up.
chin up dude. just think how fucking lovely they will taste when u get there!!!
Friends, thank you very much for your support... :) We're on our way!
GreenMonster, thanks for posting! Good to have you around :)
Stay tuned, right now, I'm doing two or three things... in a couple of hours, I'll cut clones!
I'm placing the clones into their final root box... so they'll be in the same box all their lives. The root box, or root chamber, is a Sterilite tub, almost filling the cabinet to capacity. It's 12" high, and I forgot how many gallons... It's big. I'll upload pics later.
I'm going to install the NutraMist fog feed tube into the tub, then cut the hole to the bottom of the cabinet. Thanks to the fog discussions with DaCrazyThug (the guy with the Puppy Sandwich... damn, I miss it), I'll do now a "re-circulating" fog setup. Fog that's condensed, will flow back through the fog feed tube into the NutraMist. That should help with the maximum usage of the nutrients.
QUESTION: I installed my RO+DI (Reverse Osmosis + De-Ionization) water filter... working fine. Should I use my ppm/pH/EC/etc meter? I haven't used it yet... it's still in the box. Ideas?
I'll be placing the clones into small net pots... and filling those with lava rocks.
What else.???? Oh, I need to build the SCRoG screen and frame... tomorrow. Maybe.
And later today... yikes... I need to place my girls into their mother cabient... :( Small thing...
LIGHTS:::
Anyway, I was planning on using one CFL light for all the clones... the CFL is rated at something like 90 or 100 incandescent-watts. It's for reading.
I was hoping that light was enough, and after about 5-7 days, I could turn ON the 400W MH. Ideas? Suggestions?
Ok, stay tuned... As Gen says, same turtle channel...
-turtle420 :cool:
.
glad to see some new progress:thumbsup:
did you kill the bugs????:confused:
Thanks Buk :)Quote:
Originally Posted by BukDatAss
The bugs... I'm working on a solution... hopefully tomorrow, I can erradicate the little SoBs... thanks for the info man, without it, I wouldn't know what to do... I just copy/pasted it to my grow Notebook.
<><><>
I just started Clone Wars, version 3.0
NutraMist running 24 hours every day...
Dayton exhaust fan running for 5 minutes, ever 30 minutes.
One 12W CFL... 60incandescent-watts ("").
The tub, the fog setup, the rez, everything is working perfectly... except for a little leak... very little. Arghhh...
Anyways, I trully hope these clones work. I cut them pretty long, cut-off all the leaves except the 2 or 3 most upper set of leaves. I snipped the tips of the leaves off... I'm not 100% sure why.
I dipped them generously in rooting hormone.
What else?... That's it. :)
-turtle420 :cool:
.
Turtle, is there such a thing as too much love in your book? When did you decide to turn your clones in frankenstein? I'm asking because I am horrified at what you have done to your beautiful clones. I would never take leaves away from a clone, unless the leaf is brown or yellow. Leaves are essential to plant life. Think of the stomach. Well the leaves are the stomach of your plant. By hacking away at the clone, it has lost all of it's food supply.
I'm staying tuned to the turtle channel.
Turtle since you trimmed all the leaves off. I would cut the stem down too. That's too far for the water to travel without any leaves.
Shit... I just started and I already messed-up... :(
Gen, this cloning thing ... ... ...
Ok, I removed the leaves because I thought they should be removed from clones... Oh god...
Ok, the mothers are fine, I can take more clones from them... But these... Oh god... Ok, can I get like, um...
:( I'm going to bed.
(BTW: Thanks for the input Gen, I appreciate it a million. But it's just too late... I don't even want to look @ them anymore. :( )
what people usually do is snip off 1 4th of the leaf margins *the tips) so that the clones have less inbalancing weight on there ends tipping them over but by no means cut 2 much of the leaves off shes right but thats just a simple overlooked step youve got all the ingredients now its just time to find the perfect way of mixing them up..jus think of it like this once u get this cloning thing down your bud factory will officially be open for business and in no time turtle will be parting the sea of green...if at first you dont secussed...fuk the world and smoke some weed...then try and try again...repeat steps 1 @ 2 as needed...
As long as they are green keep growing them. Try shortening the stem on half and leave the other half with long stems. See which ones do better. I don't snip any plant part unless it's dead. Turtle you're making this way too hard. Make a bubbler and put the water level just below the stem Leave this on 24/7. If the leaves start curling (mine did) it's too much light. The bubbler can be just plain water. In 7-9 days you will see roots or root buds. There is a picture of the one I made for $12 on my grow thread. So do a bunch of different things to see which ones you like best. Zandor always says if this is your first time grow, put a few in dirt, till you get the hydro worked out. In my grow I have 5 soil and 5 hydro. I already know how to grow and hydro is keeping me really busy. The soil plants are alot easier.
Good!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by turtle420
Wow.. +4,000.. wow.. I spent about 300££ on mine.. lol!:)
I'll be getting upgrades soon enough though..!:)
Power Puff.. That was my initial name.. But, I did something, and never fully registered.. So, I just became Powder Puff!:D lol
Just keep trying.. Over and over..:) I wasted 18 good seeds on my first attempts..! lol..:p:o
Turtle, are you okay? Maybe I was a little too harsh. The clones will be fine.
whoa, i just read the first 10 pages or so and im really impressed with your grow., more pics more pics,
im on my first grow as welland about 3 weeks into flower, but i dont have a camera, but thinking about getting one with tax rebate
anyways i skipped to the last pages and saw you had cloning probs and bugs
all i can say about the cloning is dont use alotta light. really dark is the way to gojust till roots form, ,
and are you using a rooting gel or similar rooting compound?
i have fallin in love with your style, though i havent read the middle end stuff yet
KEEP THE FAITH!!
Crimsondane
yeah this is my 2nd post, ive just found this place a few days ago with OG.com going down. but after some surfing here its just about the same.
so ill keep watchin and posting ..
Hello Gen... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen
Nah... you weren't too harsh. But, when I read your post, it was like 3:45 in the morning, I had been awake a looong time, and been working on those clones for a long time. So, your information (although perfectly un-biased), was a pretty hard hit with reality for me. I just got frustrated. Not much else I can say.
But don't worry, I won't stop. No way. I'll try this Cloning v3.0 with the fog one more time... if these clones die, then it's off to Gen's simple bubble cloner.
Thanks for the input Gen, even if they're a "hit with reality", please, keep them coming. :) I appreciate it...
Hey Crimsondane, good to have you here man :) Both in this thread, and more importantly, in the boards. People here are very friendly :) Wow... both your 2 posts are in my thread... I feel overwelmed... lol ! :) Enjoy your stay! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Crimsondane
<><><>
UPDATES:::
Mother plants: Well, they're in the mother cab... I've got the four CFLs turned ON. Each CFL is 42Watts... they're "comparable" to a 200W incandescent. Mothers seem to be doing fine. Keeping a close eye on them... don't want anything bad happening...
CLONES: The clones are looking fine. The CFL I'm using is a "daylight" reading light... it's rated for 60 watts (I think) and it consumes 10Watts... so you can imagine the "punnyness" of the light. Anyways, the clones are fine. Their leaves haven't wilted, everything is fine.
The NutraMist is being turned ON for 1 minute, every 9 minutes. I tried to leave it ON constantly, but it was impossible. I mean, the cabinet got filled up with fog... fog started pouring out by the seams, sides, the Dayton on top... it was a disaster. So, it's 1minON/9minOFF now. The Dayton fan isn't turned ON all the time, it turns ON for 4 minutes every 30 minutes.
Temps hovering around the low 80's... Hopefully they'll work.
I'll post pics later today. :)
Thanks for everything my good friends,
-turtle420 :cool:
.
Turtle I wanted to do some mothers with my next grow.. My question is about how many 42w CFLs would I need to keep about 3 mothers in a cab. I always wanted to know how do you control the height of a mother in a constant veg stage? Nice to hear you back in Biz. I really hope you pull this one off. I think you'll do just fine you are learning alot from your mistakes (and so is everyone else):thumbsup: and with that you will only do more of a positive effect on your upcoming grows. I'm pretty sure that there are few people that have tried all this you have done on there 1st grow and from what everyone sees your doing a damn good job :thumbsup: keep it up
^^^^ Buk,
Thanks for the words man!
BTW: You got time for some Halo now?
As to the 42W CFLs for the Mothers... I trully am not sure. I placed 4 of those (42W) because I had them, and the sockets. I figured, if I don't need that many, I can turn OFF one, or two. But I trully don't know how many are needed.
As to the mothers, I'd really like the input (I think it deserves a new thread) from JustAseed... his mothers are exactly what I would like. I kept mine @ a small height, but, they're not, um, "organized"...
Arghh... my hard disk is making noises... better back-up everything.
I'll reload in 10,
-turtle420 :cool:
.
Turtle, I'm glad you're back.
I just read in the Big Book of Buds, that white widow needs to be changed to 8 hours of light last two weeks of flowering in order to halt regrowth on the buds and produce just enough stress to coax out the maximum amount of sticky resin per inch. Also the greenhouse (whoever they are they have the best seeds) recommends light water and light nutes. I've been pushing water with my plants. Time to cut back.
Clones are very hardy, people do chop off leaves and they grow just fine. So I was bad in criticizing you. Sorry. Here's to a great grow.
Hey G,Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen
:) Thanks for posting :)
That White Widow information is super interesting... I didn't know that... and here I was going, about to do my thing with the plants... and no idea what they needed... lol ;)
So, intersting White Widow grow pointers:::
1. Last 2 weeks, 8 hours of light... for a 8/16 light schedule
2. Light watering
3. Light nutrients
That sounds good :) Thanks! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
As to your being "bad in criticizing" me, don't worry Gen. I trully know your intentions are the best... I've got no doubt. And I preffer being told about reality than being lied to with a fairy tale... so, you did absolutely the right thing... now I learned for my next clones! :)
The current clones are doing good... I finally understood the idea of a "weak" light for the clones... damn, it has to be weeeaaaakkk in order to work. Anyways, weak CFL is turned ON, and clones seem to be doing good. I say they're doing good because, well, I don't see them doing "bad". They're still standing straight up (except one, it's a little tilted), their leaves haven't withered/coiled, etc. They look good ! :) :D :) ;)
I'm looking for the roots all the time, but so far, no roots. But no worries, they'll come! :)
I'm still trying to figure out my pest control with CO2. I posted over in the Advanced Section, but no answer. I'll bump it in about a week. I was thinking of killing my pests by "suffocating" them with high CO2 levels. I think that's the best because it'll be the fastest, cleanest, easiest and most effective pest control. I think. I hope. :)
Best everybody, love to all,
-turtle420 :cool:
.