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The highest my Co2 evar gets is 2200 ppm and thats only if they look like they can handle it. My Co2 is turned off for the last 2 weeks. The numbers in my feeding schedual are listed in ml's. LOL. For additives just stick to what the directions on the container say.
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Originally Posted by jedeye
For what it's worth, to all CO2 Generator Piolet Light users, or would be users:
I have absolutely no troubble with my CO2 Generator, w/ Piolet light. It's in the middle of my grow room. The Light it gives off is very minimal, and no plants are showing any problems. Also, there is no negative effects associated with slightly higher CO2 levels during lights off. The piolet burner raises my PPM by about 100 above ambient air... so lights off CO2 ppm is around 500+/- ....
no problems at all, and I must say... CO2 kicks ass!!
never had such thick stems and rapid veg growth...
:rastasmoke:
The PF2 is GARBAGE and does not work. I used to work for the company that made them. They have no power factor correcting ability, they're snake oil. IP Controls went out of business, the products were unreliable. I got fired for refusing to build them. I can answer any questions you may have on Flip Boxes, Timer Boards, Load Centers, etc......
Best Regards
DB
Was wondering the price you paid for your AC unt and what cooling capacity it has. Any leads on where to find the one you used?
If you have no problem running lots of water and want to go cheap you can purchase a Chiller. they have 1 fan, 2fan and 3 fan maybe even 4 fan im not sure. I little bit more money and alot more power you can purchase a Thermoplus A/C they start at 1 ton and go up from there. Basicly 1 ton will cool about 3 1000w lights. If you want to spend even a little more money you can go with a A/C Heating and Cooling unit. These units have a condencer that sits out side and run gas to the A/C unit that sits in your room. They use alot of power but no water. You can do a search or ask your local hydro store about any of these and im sure you will find where to purchase them.
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Originally Posted by jedeye
Wow you use a pilot light burner in a sealed room and it doesnt raise you PPM of Co2 in your room when your lights are off. First i heard of that.
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Originally Posted by noruas
this thread is inspiring and very helpful, i've reciently gotten into the scene with some equipent I ordered from BC, i'm doing 20 clones per 1k hps and 3 in the flowering room, so 3k and 60 little guy's under 12/12 how do u think they'll do WITHOUT CO2? what am i looking at to set it up? And how bad do u think it will stink, should I invest in a charcohol setup?
First off if your just starting out read this whole thread. Pretty much help you step by step. To run Co2 you will need a Co2 burner with a glow plug and a Co2 computer/monitor. Burner will cost you about 6-8 hundred, and the computer are about 650-1150. I just bought one from Better Than Nature for $650. If you cant afford it this time around make sure you invest in the Co2 next time around. Its sure worth the money it will increase your yeild big time. For the charcoal filter I would wait. You dont have very many plants and it depends alot on what strain you are using. Some stink more than others. If you need any help at all id be glad to help you. Just post any questions here on this thread. I check every few days. Good Luck.
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Originally Posted by rollin500
yep i've been reading this thread for day's now :) but for a newbie I think i'm doing very well with my show so far, i'd like to post you some pics but I don't have a digi cam right now. I'd say after the first round or so i'll try to invest in a co2 system but u know how it is when u first start out, how tall would u recommend I veg them before flipping 12/12?
How do you determine total ppm from the feeding schedle you posted to be sure that you are using the proper CO2 levels. You poste the schedule in mL added, right LoL? Could you post a CO2 schedule as well or explain how to calculate CO2 levels from the feeding schedule that you posted. Different EC meters seem to have different formulas for calculating ppm levels and converting to EC readings. Hope I wasnt too confusing. I am doing lots of research concerning this thread. It woke me up to what is possible with using a little inginuity.
Thanks Again for your generosity.
Any updated pics??!?
Hello
Must say you have a amasing set up there, sorry for asking but i live in Norway
and we do not have your kind of soil in shops here would it be ok to cactus
soil ??? im starting a new set up now and im going to try system :)
And thanx for a good and informativ post ;)
I couldnt tell you. I have never used cactus soil.
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Originally Posted by callekukas
Start the PPM on your Co2 computer at about 1100 PPM for week 2. Every week bump it up 200 PPM.
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Originally Posted by jedeye
Some stains grow faster than others. If you wait to long you plants will get tall and stretch. I usually flip my plants around a foot tall. If im taking clippings off the bottoms to root for another room I let them get a little taller before flipping.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rollin500
another question, my little guys are about 1 ft there now i'm just waiting on my reflectors for the hps but what do u think of batwing reflectors for our style of growing? and that being said a tray (4x4) of 20 plants 1 ft veg flipped under a 1k hps with batwigs what kinda of yeild do u think i'll get roughly if everything goes well? I know it's hard to say but any ideas for a tray that size?? dry too
Bat Wing shaders are decent. Any shader that hangs your bulb sideways are a better shader. For how much you will yield I cant really tell you. I have no idea what kinda set you have. Its definatly a good idea to not cheap out on your room. What ever money you put into you room spend wisely and will make alot better results. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by rollin500
Tran,
Thanks for the help you’ve given me so far, we’ve grown some dank bud.
Were trying to get our yield up and thinking about using overdrive.
I’ve read about it on Advanced N website and it looks like what we need
What are you feelings on it
Tranoble-
I was searching the internet for information on sealed rooms and I came across this thread. I just spent the last couple hours reading all the information on here amd I must say I am amazed. Great work growing in soil. You obviously have a great understanding of the plant itself and use that to your advantage.
I am a newbie on this site, but far from a newbie when it comes to growing. I have been growing for a few years using a drip system in buckets. I recently moved and I just finished rough-framing my new flower room. I am now convinced; I am going to build a sealed room.
I have a couple questions for you that I hope you dont mind answering. Do you have any experience growing bushes in buckets? Since I live in the states, I have to watch my plant counts and cant grow large numbers. I veg my plants for about 3-4wks which is a lot longer than you are vegging. In a sealed room environment, would I still wait till bloom to start with CO2 or would I start during veg?
My room is about 10' long x 6' wide x 7' high. I sold a few of my lights to grow buddies while i was moving from house to house since i didnt have any use for them. Now, i dont know what to buy. Should i go with 2 1k lights or 4 600w lights? I really want to use 3 1k lights but i need to run the AC, dehumidifier, and other things which will draw a good bit of power, and being in a 3 bedroom house in the states, i dont want to draw too much power.
Thanks for all the help. You are a wealth of knowledge and an inspiration to all. Keep up the good shows.
RamCTD
My very first grow room I grew christmas trees in buckets with lava rock and a drip system. I know alot of people that run there Co2 at about 900 ppm while in veg. I dont cause i dont veg that long. For what kinda of lights you should use I would say 1000 watt. I have never used nothing but. The power consumption I would use a equalizer. It reduces your power consumption. I have given more deatil what it does and where to find it earlier in this thread.
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Originally Posted by RamCTD1027
Sorry Harris I have never used it.
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Originally Posted by harris7
What an inspiring thread - cheers :thumbsup:
It's made me re-assess my set up and I'm going to try my next crop using a closed system like yours. Unfortunately where I live, I can't source some of the products you are using, so I'm having to modify the setup slightly.
I'll be growing in a 8'x6' room, using one split A/C unit with the heat exchanger outside. I've managed to find a similar but different make CO2 computer that comes complete with regulator, controller and sensor but I can't find a CO2 generator, so I have to use bottles. If I've read through your posts correctly, I'll be needing 2 x 20lb bottles and use them only during flowering.
I was also wondering what you do about temperature control. I'll probably set the A/C for around 77 degrees F / 25 degrees C and with the grow room temperature being controlled by the A/C unit, it will be a constant temperature regardless if the lights are on or off. In my current set up, my temperature drops when the lights go out. Do you leave your room at a constant temperature or do you drop it a few degrees when the lights out go out?
I'm also curious what the A/C unit does to humidity levels as A/C normally sucks moisture out of the air.
Any advice greatly appreciated, thanks in advance :rasta:
Tranoble-
Thanks for the help.
As far as pf correction, it does work; however, it doesnt work in the US. The electrical grid in the US is billed in KWH, where as in canada and other countries, it is billed KVAH. I dont believe pf correction saves money for people in the US. Do you know of any other ways to help save money on the electric bill? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
RamCTD
Keep your room at about 85 degrees when the lights are on and 75 degrees when the lights are out. If your temps drop any more than that your plant will stretch and your nodes will not be as close together. Your a/c will help with the humidity but you will still need a duhumidifier to control the humidity. You want your humidity in room at about 60%-40% or as close as you can get to that. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by In Bloom
I live in Canada and we are allso billed in KWH. Im pretty sure it works in the states cause thats where they are made.
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Originally Posted by RamCTD1027
Hey Tranoble any new pics??
Tranoble i'm having some troubles with my grow, I flipped my girls to 12/12 and there a week in and there stretching towards the light bad I don't know why, there getting blasted by a 1000 hps and in between some nodes the last few day's is almost 2 inches, plz help lol
That's what they do in flower and you should expect a plant to double or even triple in heigth during flowering period.
no I understand that but I mean stretching, like between nodes is like 2 inches rather then 1, it looks funny and this decreases yield so i'm trying to figure out what i'm doing wrong
What are your temps in your room? You only want your room to drop 10-12 degrees when ur light are off. My room is 85 degrees lights on and 75 degrees lights out. When your temps drop more than 15 degrees it will cause your plants to stretch. Call your local grow store about a new product called Dr. Nodes. It will stop your plants from growing any taller. 250 ml of Dr. Nodes into 50 gal of nutrient. You only have to do this once. Good luck i hope this helps.
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Originally Posted by rollin500
I'm glad this thread is still alive!!!!!!!!!!!!
First of all...such a great thread Tran. Really. Cheers :beer:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tranoble
I actually came back to read it thru again as I'm considering going to a fully sealed setup. I came across a couple new posts since I was around last and have a question for ya regarding the above quote...
In my experience, everytime, without fail....not having some sort of fresh air coming into a vegging room has held the plants back. For example, lets talk about a 6K setup with 200clones. If the ventilation stays off for a few days (usually cuz it's so cold and dry outside that it'll pull the room humidity down way too low)...but anyways, the plants will be looking droopy, even tho they are growing ok. Within 10minutes of turning the outside ventilation on however...BOOM! The plants just perk right up and start rockin hard.
So I'm a little confused.
You're saying your room is 100% sealed up and no CO2 until wk1 of bloom...so that's a week or 2 of no CO2 and no outside air. I'm having a hard time getting my head around that....
Harris was asking about AN's Overdrive...you mentioned it in your very first thread post Tran ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tranoble
While I have you here on the subject of bloom boosters and ripening products...
The AN charts give an application rate for BigBud and OverDrive but it is with an equal ratio of the 3part at 1/1/1....you (and I) both use the 3part base at a ratio of 1/2/4 (G/M/B).
Any comments on your application rates for BB or OD while using a 1/2/4 base ratio?
Thx Tran:)
Stupid Star;)
Im not saying you cant use Co2 in veg. I prefer not to. I like the plant to get a good start before pumping them with Co2. I notice the leaves droop just a little with Co2 on and if I turn it off for a day the leaves will stand straight up. Different stains do different things. I just go with what works best for the strain im using at that time.
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Originally Posted by Stuper Star
Not all strains can handle the 1/2/4 ratio. It works unreal tho if your strain can handle it.
I use the Over Drive in week 5 and 6 only.
The Big Bud I start at week 2. I use the Big Bud in every 2nd feeding. Week 2 75grams to 50 gal. Week 3-80 grams. Week 4-85grams. Week 5-90grams. Week 6-100grams. Thats of the top of my head or something close to that.
Ya, that much BB into a 1/2/4 mix is pretty smokin' :stoned: I only started using 1/2/4 on the last round and they loved it. But I didn't use any blooming products in wks 2-4...just some OD for 5-6.
I need new shades, but can't decide if I'm going to go with a vertical grow (like U.G.U...but pots of #4, not hydro)....dumping a G on shades would suck if I then do go vert...lol
I hear ya Tran. We even discussed earlier that your sealed room gets no CO2 for the end of flowering. Not even some fresh air, which has 3-400PPM of CO2. Amazing, but feasible I guess as plants certainly don't look like they're doing much thru the leafs at that point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tranoble
But in veg...it's all about high energy and growth. I don't understand how a room full of healthy vegging plants wouldn't deplete all the CO2 in that space.
The room isnt totally sealed. I allso find alot of strains dont like alot of Co2 when they are only a few days old thats why i leave it. But i know what your saying. If I have some real healthy babies and they are taking off quick forsure I will start the Co2 early. It just really sucks when your babies arnt liking the Co2 and they reject it. I think the key to any good crop is a great start.
I think the best advice you can get is right here on this site. Take a look around there are many small grows in these forums. Good luck.
i have read through your journal and i, like most others, am inspired and offer up the utmost respect to you for your knowledge and ability.thanks for journaling for us too.
im also a member at gardenscure.com and over there is a guy named rockclimber who is doing a grow somewhat similar to yours in size. hes growing a non-veg, sog, perpetual grow using an ebb/flow, harvesting monthly. his journal is impressive too (complete with construction pics!).
my question is one concerning yield.
hes harvesting one 4x8 tray a month and yielding 5 lbs. a month while you generated 36.5 lbs. from 2 rooms and 14,000 lights in 2 months.
im trying to find a common demonimator between you two and decide if its better to use soil like you are doing or go with the ebb/flow.
could you clarify as to how big the main 8 light room is youre growing in and how many square feet of garden is being used?
in doing the math it seems like youre yielding over twice as much as rockclimber but i cant help but believe im missing something in my assumptions or calculations.
.00125 lbs/watt = 10 lbs/8000W (rockclimber over a 2 month period)
.00261 lbs/watt = 36.5 lbs/14,000W (tranoble over a 2 month period)
his sog is yielding 8.41 grams per plant on 108 plants (per 4x8 tray) but youre saying yours is much more....and youre saying youre planting every six inches and that means 105 plants in the same 4x8 area as rockclimber....yikes! im confused on where ive gone astray or what im missing here. 20% - 50% difference between 2 experienced growers is feasible but 100% is alot of difference.
lastly, do you think youd get any better a yield if you made your boxes out of 2x10's since the roots could grow deeper?
thanks again for the journal.